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Sunroof pops when opening

7K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Falcor 
#1 ·
The sunroof on my 2010 Outback has been popping when I open it. I mentioned it to the dealer and they said they would look at it. The service manager said it needed a few parts for the sunroof (track, motor, cables) to repair. The extended warranty company (Route 66) will not cover the repair since the one I purchased does not cover sunroofs. The service manager said it would be about $1600 to repair.

I did some research and there was a TSB for a binding sunroof on the 2010 Outbacks. Here is the info below. Has anyone heard of this?

Subaru 2010 Subaru Outback Sunroof TSBs

TSB Number:
SB-12-122-10-R

NHTSA Number:
10045042

TSB Date:
June 6, 2012

Date Added to File:
August 13, 2012

Failing Component:
Visibility:Sun Roof Assembly

Summary:
Subaru: due to roof flange, there is a possibility that the sunroof, when opening, would bind.
 
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#2 ·
Haven't seen the TSB, but in case you're not aware, Subaru TSB's are not recalls; Subaru is not required to apply the TSB. Rather, TSBs are information for dealer service departments in the event a customer comes in with the particular issue covered by the TSB. If a TSB is issued for a malfunctioning sunroof, but the problem is not being experienced, or isn't brought to the attention of the dealer, the service department does not undertake the repair, or in this case, possible preventative work. Subaru is not under any requirement to inform owners that a TSB has been issued for a particular problem. (A recall or "campaign bulletin" as Subaru calls it, does require that owners be notified.) Moreover, The cost of implementing the work in a TSB is normally paid by Subaru only when the car is still covered by the applicable Subaru warranty.

12-122-10-R was issued in 2012. Apparently it was superceded by TSB 07-72-13:

"This Bulletin provides diagnosis and repair procedures to address a customer concern of the sunroof not opening or closing properly. It will also address a “popping” or “slamming” sound from the glass panel when it lowers prior to retracting. This Bulletin supersedes TSBs 12-122-10R, 12-124-10R and 12-135-12." [SOA STIS]

Ask the dealer if the repairs that are being proposed are those in the TSBs. If they are, and if you owned the car from new and/or have had it serviced at the dealer, these might be a basis for kindly asking if Subaru would cover the cost under "goodwill". (In some cases, the dealer might go to bat for you, but if not, Contact Subaru Customer Service directly. SOA might consider paying, or sharing, the cost.
 
#3 ·
Excellent description / definition of TSB! May I also interject that *ALL* automakers have TSB's for their vehicles. (not just Subaru)

Another way to look at TSB is it is ANYTHING which does not rise to the level of being a safety-hazzard. A "recall" is a formal, government-mandated action which is almost always related to safety.
 
#5 ·
I went and got some silicone spray last night. I sprayed it on a paper towel and rubbed it on so the spray would get in the car. It may have helped a little, but not much. I wonder if a new seal on the glass would fix the issue.

I'm kinda thinking of calling a sunroof repair shop and see what they say about it. If Outback/Legacy's have had this issue for awhile, they would be aware of it.
 
#6 ·
If you can open it all the way, look at the track where they have little square indents.
I have seen them bend up and cause the pause/bind. I have fixed them that way before doing tracks.
If it gets to the point it won't open the track is to far gone for repairs.
 
#7 ·
It's been a year since I last posted anything about the sunroof. The dealer said that the sunroof was not covered under my extended warranty, and it was going to cost about $1600 to replace the sunroof. Needless to say, I opted not to replace the sunroof. It still pops when opening, and I have been living with it. It seemed a little worst this week, so I rubbed more Sil-Glyde on the rear of the seal on the glass. Ir helped some, but now the popping is worse. I think the Sil-Glyde makes the gasket stick/grab the opening in the roof more than if it is dry.

So, in reviving this thread, has anyone found a good fix for this issue? I honestly think the gasket on the glass has expanded/degraded in the sun and needs replaced. What I don't know is if I can replace it, or if it will have to go to a sunroof shop. On a side note, I have noticed more road noise from the rear of the glass.
 
#8 ·
I had the same thing happen to me after taking my OB through a car wash the first week I had it. Worked perfectly smooth in the used car lot and the days after taking it home. I get the car washed that weekend and all of a sudden the glass bound up so bad it wouldn't open without my hand pushing it down from the outside while hitting the switch with my other arm. After much grumbling about sleazy used car salesmen, I went and picked up some plain old silicon spray lubricant. During this time the glass had no problem tilting up and down, so I tilted it up and cleaned the gasket around the glass (not just the back facing side, but all the way around) and sheet metal the gasket sealed against. After cleaning, I sprayed the silicone lube directly on the gasket and wiped it around with a rag. Tilted the glass back down and then hit the open switch. Presto! It slid right open just like new. Just to make sure, I opened and closed the sunroof multiple times. Then I spent the next 30-40 minutes using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to remove the overspray from the silicon lube, followed by clay barring the glass and then applying rainX. That was back in October I think and the glass is just starting to show signs of needing a re-lube.

Related: Whenever I tilt the glass up, it doesn't sound like it seals as well after I close it unless I tilt it down and then briefly slide back the glass and then close it again. The seals seem to like being pushed up into position rather than pushing down in to the car. No leaks so far!
 
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#9 ·
I've got some spray silicon from when I tried it last year. Looks like I didn't do it well enough. I'll give that a go. Thanks for the tip.
 
#10 ·
Ok, I used the spray silicone all around the gasket and the opening in the roof. It actually made it worse. The gasket was grabbing the opening after. So I ended up using a thick layer of the Sil-Glyde, and it seems to work for now. Its really just a bandaid until I can take it to a sunroof shop. I'm hoping they have a simple fix. I am afraid that the gasket on the glass needs replaced, but it looks like the glass will have to be removed to do that.
 
#11 ·
It was worth a shot I guess. It sounds like yours is somehow worse than mine was. Which is strange to me because mine was grabbing so bad it wouldn't open. Does the gasket look deformed at all?
 
#12 ·
With just the spray it would grab the roof opening. The gasket looks fine, but I'm guessing the thicker layer of the Sil-Glyde (kinda looks like Vaseline) seemed to help. Bad thing is dirt and junk are going to start sticking to the Sil-Glyde.

Replacing the timing belt (just hit 105k last month) is higher up on the list than the sunroof, but still annoying.
 
#13 ·
I'm starting to wonder if the opening mechanism needs to be adjusted. Maybe the glass is getting pulled backwards before it has a chance to be pulled down.

I'm in the process of ordering parts for my TB change. I'm doing it early as I have a long road trip this summer that would put me too close to 105K for me to be comfortable. But that's another discussion for another thread.
 
#14 ·
I'm starting to wonder if the opening mechanism needs to be adjusted. Maybe the glass is getting pulled backwards before it has a chance to be pulled down.
Good point. I wonder how that can be adjusted.
 
#15 ·
I just looked for it, but couldn't find it. But there is a thread I read on here that referred to a method of recalibrating the opening mechanism. It involved loosening the mounts for the glass along with some process of opening and closing to "retrain" the mechanism. Maybe if you do a more in depth search on here you can find it. Or just take it in somewhere and have them look at it.

Good Luck!
 
#16 ·
I finally got around to taking my car to a sunroof shop. They tried to adjust it, but it didn't work. They found out the glass is warped and it will need a new glass panel. The parts sites list the panel for about $180 (depending on the site). Removal and install will be $75. This is much better than replacing the entire sunroof assembly like the dealer wanted to do to the tune of $1600.
 
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#17 ·
That is better than an entire replacement. It sounds strange that the glass would be warped. I'm not sure how common it is for glass to change shape. Might be worth it to take it to another sunroof shop for a second opinion?
 
#18 ·
Mine started doing this a few weeks ago. The rear edge of the glass would bind on the roof metal and compress the rubber gasket until it would pop under and operate OK, or it would just stop there and go no further.

I tried some teflon spray but this made it worse - it wouldn't go past the bind point at all. I guess it softened the rubber surround a little.

I then cleaned that off and tried some graphite dust for lubricating locks. This worked fine and the thing operates without trouble, although it still hesitates a little when it hits that bind point and pops past.
 
#19 ·
I tried the graphite dust about a week ago, it didn't really help. I just need to order the panel and get it fixed correctly.


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