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my current "plan"...

1K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  GasGuzz 
#1 ·


Folks,


Acquiring myMother's 2011 OB 2.5 Premium, CVT over Labor Day weekend. All maintenance (pretty much oil changes andfluid checks) have been done at the dealership. It will be my DD and currently has 77K on the clock. Logistically, it's a PIA for me to drop off avehicle for service, and I'm a little short on free time right now for DIY.
OB is currently inPA so it underwent a "decent" State inspection, passed in April, 6K ago.


"Mum" canget it to the dealer for a few things so my plan is: to have the dealership


replace brake fluid
replace plugs
oil change.


Once some free timerolls around, I'll replace diff fluids.
CVT fluid changewill need some more research on my end.


Comments/suggestions welcome!








 
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#6 ·
Added the diffs and CVT fluid changes to my list. Thanks for the input. I'll check the cabin and air filters before I hit the road. I'll rotate the tires once I get home, since "Mum" doesn't have a pair of floor jacks iin her garage...
 
#7 ·
Dealer Service

If you have the paperwork from the dealer services, you might find that "other" items than just engine oil and filter have been done. The dealers I have dealt with usually perform the items called for by mileage unless you specifically tell them not to.

If you don't have the paperwork, it should be on record by VIN number, and should be accessible by any dealer's service department.
 
#8 ·
What is your gearhead capability for DIY?
As alluded, if you’re having dealer work that would be the CVT/Diffs (having a strict regimen). I don’t tow, and won’t be touching these till 90K.
Check the brake pads, it’s not uncommon for the rears to wear before the fronts. If you're DIY plugs, it can wait till 90K.
2011 OEM Battery, see/feel how it fires up, I could feel ours starting to ‘age’ in winter 2015 (however no problems starting). I replaced it (OEM 2011) back in March, upsized to Gr-34.
 
#9 ·
If the vehicle already has a top-quality set of iridium spark plugs (Denso or NGK), you're just wasting your money if you replace them before 120,000 to 150,000 miles.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the replies.


I did call the service department, gave them the VIN, and verified that the work I was having done had not been done previously.


DIY level is decent. Not sure of plug access with this boxer (always did my Civic's) and I will do the next diff, oil and possibly CVT change too. I do all of my drivetrain fluids on my truck.


PA inspection in April pulled all four tires and checked brakes. I believe Mum said that rear pads were replaced and rotors cut, about a year ago.


Although I know that I'll pay too much for this, I just don't have the time for a while and I need a turn key driver. My desire to spin wrenches has waned as I've aged. Mum's dropping it off at her stealership tomorrow to have the work done. My current "plan..." is to leave Pittsburgh after Labor day and drive back to the Louisville area, and enjoy the drive in my first Subaru...
 
#12 ·
Thanks GassGuzz,
Those forums helped me make my decision. Once I actually get this OB into my garage, I'll have a better idea of what I'll do and what I shop out. Looks like my next major issue will be the timing belt.
 
#13 ·
You mean the sky is falling timing belt replacement?
Manufacturers have captured this perception and have made the timing chain a selling point. Never mind the seals, water pump and pulleys.
I had a timing belt service on my son’s 08 Accord and after 8yrs/100K it cost me a 'heart attack' ~$700. And that’s with OEM timing/drive belts, water pump, seals and pulleys, and on a transverse Honda engine.
 
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