Subaru Outback Forums banner

Kayak bow strap

37K views 34 replies 15 participants last post by  RubyRed 
#1 ·
I just got a kayak, and cannot figure out how or where to attach the bow strap on my 2012 Outback Premium. Could someone please offer some suggestions? Thanks!
 
#5 ·
I had the same question when I was looking at it, and then I decided to get these: Yakima Racks & Carriers Shop Water Water Accessories ANCHOR STRAP KIT

I attached them to the free holes on the frame (under the hood). The instructions said not to attach it to the same attachment/bolt point as your headlights, so I just attached it to the open holes next to the headlights.

Another solution that I thought about was to break out the tow hook and plug it in the front, and then tie down there. But for $10 plus a couple nuts/bolts and washers, it was better piece of mind.
 
#6 ·
If you reach in the opening between below the grill you will find a hole on each side of the Steel box beam of the bumper (above the opening). The holes are aprox 7/16 dia. Just the right size of a coarse thread 1/2" bolt to screw into. I took an long s hook and reformed it so that the 1/2" bolt would just go through it and the remainder would hang down into the opening. Then I put some RTV sealant on the bolt and threaded it into the hole -attaching the s hook, which now is reformed into two eyes about 2" apart (so the one eye is below the box beam. I did it on both sides so I can tie down two kayaks. Seems to work fine. But you will need to make a sleeve of microfiber to run the line though to protect the paint on the hood if the bow doesn't extend beyond the bumper.
 
#7 ·
I don't know any specifics about the Gen 4 Outback. But, in my kayak club, I notice that folks often use screw-in, forged eye bolts that the car manufacturer provides for towing. Many new cars have little caps in the bumpers or grills that hide the threaded sockets for those bolts.

On my '05, it has tow eyes under the front and rear bumper which work fine. I use some nice ratcheted ropes from Thule which make eliminates knots and makes tensioning easy.

Keep in mind that the bow and stern lines are for added safety, not as the primary, load bearing attachement to the car. They are there to keep the boat from lifting in the air currents, that's all. The heavy straps at the rack cross bars should do most of the work. My kayak doesn't go anywhere without two main straps plus bow and stern ropes.
 
#8 ·
How long is your kayak? Short ones (8-9 feet) don't need bow/stern straps.
 
#9 ·
How long is your kayak? Short ones (8-9 feet) don't need bow/stern straps.
In my case, it is 16.5 foot Wilderness Tempest. I prefer to see bow lines even on shorter ones. Otherwise, all it would take for the boat to start flying is the failure of one strap. Once the boat starts lifting the remaining strap will work loose. Redundancy is good when a problem could kill someone.

I saw a loose kayak on a car going down the freeway in the other direction once. It was bobbing up about three feet in the front and the driver was oblivious. :eek:
 
#10 ·
My Kayak is 13.5 feet (two person), and for shorter distances, I'm ok without a bow and stern tie-down; however, I plan to do some much longer hauls, and I will indeed need the extra security. To narrow my question, I just need to know how folks have routed and secured the bow line to the frame in the front of the car. The kayak is centered on the vehicle, therefore, the line should be as well. Thanks for your help.
 
#17 ·
The are Malone rachet tie downs!

Paddle Sport, Transport, Loading and Storage Systems | Malone Auto Racks

And yes they are S hooks...enclosed gate hooks would be more secure...good idea! I also now tie the bow off a little different than the picture shows. Drivers side goes to passenger side strap and visa versa for the other. It helps secure the kayak a little better holding it to the rack, center seems OK to keep it in the middle as I do not have as much wind force on that boat. I tighten well enough but do not really crank hard as to put stress on the boat. There is enough stress on the driver when I am loaded to go:D



I have also now installed Yakima Landing Pad 12's which I like. Much easier on and off for the cross bars than the Thule 450's. And they give me the same 30" separation as the stock swing bars which were not strong enough for three kayaks. The Thule 450's when mounted was a 24-25" bar spread.
 

Attachments

#26 ·
Hawk, I hope you don't take this the wrong way, because I love it when people get the most out of their car's carrying capacity like you obviously do... But when I saw the pic with your kayaks and bikes, what immediately came to mind is that I'd put all of that into/onto a trailer. It seems like it would be easier to load it up, and less chance of paint damage while loading/unloading. Also, you could load up your trailer the day before you leave and just hitch up the trailer in the morning and go.

It would probably be less stress on your toys, too. Oh, and I bet your fuel economy would be better.

I may not work for you, but I just wanted to put that out there.
 
#18 ·
I got the landing pad 12's too. Love them. One tiny downside is that after a long day of paddling, my arms are dead tired. Makes a bit of an effort to get the kayak back on the roof. But, I have a plan! Go kayaking some more, build more muscle, and then it won't be an issue :D
 
#24 ·
I was referring to the loops shown as another product. The grommet is added to a bolt already existing. My opinion more long lasting. Whatever. Choices. It's a loop that you run your bow line to. They are sold in pairs. This is also similar to what Thule makes and was referred to in my communication with a sales/teck rep at Thule.

Seattle Sports Hood Loops - Free Shipping at REI.com

Another thought, if REI store nearby, go take a visit, and see the choices.
 
#33 ·
Rear tie down

I have a hitch so I don't have this problem, but I would crawl under the rear and see if there are any holes in the frame/bumper box that you can bolt a S hook into. There might be holes that the hitch is bolted into that are open.

This is what I did for the front tie downs - I found that there were 2 - 7/16" holes in the back side of the front bumper (steel) box (one on each side) which I was able to blindly screw in a 1/2" (coarse tread) bolt that had a S hook on it.
 
#34 ·
Front and rear tie downs

Have been sea kayaking for 20 plus years, white water canoe before that. On canoes bow and stern lines are needed due to shape of the canoe and tendency for air to lift under it. With kayaks, I have gone a probably 60,000 miles over the years with 16'-18' sea kayaks and only used front an rear straps when I had three or more so that one was stacked over another. Otherwise, best way to carry kayaks is on their edge and if a webbing strap is placed front and rear of the cockpit and you want extra protection, add an additional strap at front of cockpit. If one of the main tiedowns breaks, a bow or stern line may not really do anything as kayak can slip to the side and develop a great deal of torque very quickly.

I did however watch someone break their sea kayak in half when rear stern line came loose and they accidental rolled over it and somehow caught the wheel.I never really use front or rear lines for kayaks, but always put an extra strap over the two kayaks in front of the cockpit. I something is going to go, then the entire rack will have to go to snap two 1" nylon straps, actually 4 lines of webbing since you go over, under bar and back over. Keep eye on kayaks now matter how you tie them and watch out for overstressing fiberglass or kevlar as you can damage them. Plastic will deform, but usually pop out in sun.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top