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LED Uprgrade for DRL's

41K views 60 replies 17 participants last post by  Outbackbub 
#1 ·
I don't like the look of the factory DRL's, I think they are too yellow next to the stock projectors.

Anyone install LED bulbs on these? I am talking about the lights below that illuminate when shifting out of park with the headlights off.

If so what brand/type/model did you install and how are the working???
 

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#2 ·
#5 ·
#3 ·
I like the looks of these. I read somewhere else though that the DRLs are the high beams, but on low power. Not sure if that's true or not - didn't dig into that thread further. The availability of these makes me assume that the DRLs are actually separate from the high beams. Can someone confirm which?:confused:
 
#4 ·
I like the looks of these. I read somewhere else though that the DRLs are the high beams, but on low power. Not sure if that's true or not - didn't dig into that thread further. The availability of these makes me assume that the DRLs are actually separate from the high beams. Can someone confirm which?:confused:
Not true in the US market. The DRL's are a small bulb that is inside the high beam housing. See the photo I posted above, there's a red arrow pointing to the DRL light bulbs. The highbeam bulb (H7) is clearly visible in the middle of the DRL housing, but is not used for the DRLs.
 
#6 · (Edited)
The bulbs that the arrow points to are not the DRLs. They are simply there to provide some sort of light in case a headlight goes out (that's the most logical explanation I've read).

The 9005/HB3 high beams do double duty as DRLs. I measured the voltage and if I remember correctly they measure roughly 8V as DRLs and the full 12V (13.xx) in high beam mode.

I have LEDs in the small spot (168 type bulb).
5K WHITE 3 CHIP 5 LED LIGHT BULBS 194 168 158 2821 | 1 PAIR

I have tried some cheap 9005/HB3 LEDs before. They were the 120 LED kind from eBay. They had a nice color and were fairly bright for DRLs, but over a couple months, some of the little LEDs started to literally fall off! There was some discoloration too on their circuit board too that looks like it's from overheating. I would trust V-leds over the cheap stuff. For now, I'm back to the stock bulbs as DRLs.

If you switch to LEDs for the 9005/HB3 bulbs the high beams will basically suck at putting out any light. So you have to pick your poison - pretty DRLs or functional high beams.

I'm waiting for Triton V3 bulbs in the 9005/HB3 size. I think those would be killer. I have the V3s for my brake lights and they are bright! They are pricey too.
V3 TRITON RED MULTI-APPLICATION HIGH POWER LED BRAKE LIGHT SYSTEM 7440 7443 1156 1157 3156 3157 | 1 PAIR - V3 Triton

I have these as turn signals (amber up front and red in the rear). I got them when they used to be $80. Fortunatley they are $30 now as they have brighter ones available now:
AMBER PLATINUM 7W HIGH POWER 20 LED PARKING/TURN SIGNAL BULBS 7443 7440 | 1 PAIR


Other things to note:
I have changed my flasher relay (in the dashboard) to accomodate LED turn signals. This is much better than using resistors.

There is a product that v-leds sells that will up your DRL voltage to 12V in case you want the most from your LEDs (should you choose to go that route).

I'm not affiliated with V-leds in any way. They just have the best retrofit LEDs available that I know of. They rest of the places are a step down as far as I can see.

At this stage of the game as far as technology goes, you can't go cheap on LEDs and expect great results. You have to be somewhat of a guinea pig and pay high prices for the good stuff. They do get cheaper as time goes on though...
 
#13 ·
The bulbs that the arrow points to are not the DRLs. They are simply there to provide some sort of light in case a headlight goes out (that's the most logical explanation I've read).

The 9005/HB3 high beams do double duty as DRLs. I measured the voltage and if I remember correctly they measure roughly 8V as DRLs and the full 12V (13.xx) in high beam mode.

I have LEDs in the small spot (168 type bulb).
5K WHITE 3 CHIP 5 LED LIGHT BULBS 194 168 158 2821 | 1 PAIR

I have tried some cheap 9005/HB3 LEDs before. They were the 120 LED kind from eBay. They had a nice color and were fairly bright for DRLs, but over a couple months, some of the little LEDs started to literally fall off! There was some discoloration too on their circuit board too that looks like it's from overheating. I would trust V-leds over the cheap stuff. For now, I'm back to the stock bulbs as DRLs.

If you switch to LEDs for the 9005/HB3 bulbs the high beams will basically suck at putting out any light. So you have to pick your poison - pretty DRLs or functional high beams.

I'm waiting for Triton V3 bulbs in the 9005/HB3 size. I think those would be killer. I have the V3s for my brake lights and they are bright! They are pricey too.
V3 TRITON RED MULTI-APPLICATION HIGH POWER LED BRAKE LIGHT SYSTEM 7440 7443 1156 1157 3156 3157 | 1 PAIR - V3 Triton

I have these as turn signals (amber up front and red in the rear). I got them when they used to be $80. Fortunatley they are $30 now as they have brighter ones available now:
AMBER PLATINUM 7W HIGH POWER 20 LED PARKING/TURN SIGNAL BULBS 7443 7440 | 1 PAIR


Other things to note:
I have changed my flasher relay (in the dashboard) to accomodate LED turn signals. This is much better than using resistors.

There is a product that v-leds sells that will up your DRL voltage to 12V in case you want the most from your LEDs (should you choose to go that route).

I'm not affiliated with V-leds in any way. They just have the best retrofit LEDs available that I know of. They rest of the places are a step down as far as I can see.

At this stage of the game as far as technology goes, you can't go cheap on LEDs and expect great results. You have to be somewhat of a guinea pig and pay high prices for the good stuff. They do get cheaper as time goes on though...
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/20516-how-disable-drl-2010-outback-8.html check out post # 73 picture of DRL resistor next to windshield washer reservoir, when drl is activated it goes through the resistor to the highbeam bulb, as Rockthebeef stated the voltage is brought down to 8volts dimming the output of the highbeams.
I havent looked at the wiring harness yet but I thought about running the drl resistor line w/o the resistor and running it to that bulb that sits next to the high beam bulb, i think they call it the position light, not sure whats it supposed to do. That would be my DRL and probably save some hour usage on the highbeam bulbs. Any thoughts? criticisms?
 
#7 ·
Nickshu, rockthebeef is correct the one you pointed out is not a DRL's they are parking lights, and yes they are on when your headlights are on.
 
#8 ·
Huh, I could have sworn it was that little bulb, but still it looks yellow when lit up with the headlights so I'd like to swap for LEDs.

I guess HIDs would not work on the high beams with the low/high functions...would probably need a shutter to produce that.
 
#9 ·
Yup, it's best to match those little bulbs with your headlights since they're on when the headlights are on. FWIW the 5K LEDs I use look accurate as far as color temperature is concerned. I have a DDM 4500K HID kit that is more blue than their ratings suggest. To remedy that I have a set of new 4300K bulbs sitting in the garage, but you know how much of a pain it is to install headlights in these cars... I have to wait for a good chunk of time to do the swap. Hopefully they match the LEDs better.

It is not recommended to use HIDs as DRLs for the reason you stated. I've also tried some of those blue tinted 9005/HB3 bulbs for DRLs/high beam. They made the DRLs a little whiter, but they're less bright overall since the blue tint filters out yellow light. Additionally the blue tint reflects inside the housing when they're off and I don't care for the aesthetics of that. It makes the front end look too "law enforcement vehicle". I've sort of given up for the time being. Back to stock DRLs...
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
I have what you're looking for. Here's what I did in an older thread when I first got my 2013.

Here are the LEDs!
Here's what I'll say about the leds I got from superbrightleds: They're very, very bright. The 194 bulbs used in the headlamps, license plate lights, and under the doors are a very pure white. HOWEVER, the interior festoon bulbs and rectangular board (for cargo area) that I got are "warm white" because "natural white"(<-- 194 bulbs) wasn't offered for some reason. So these LEDs look VERY close to the stock bulbs in color. That said, they are far brighter and I am pleased with my interior.

Here's a list of the LEDs I bought from superbrightleds. The first two are the same, I don't know why it isn't just listed as 6 WLED-xHP5, but you get the idea. They're available in various colors, but I do like the natural white a lot.
---------- PRODUCT INFORMATION ----------
Qty | Product / Options | Price/ea |
============================================================
4 | WLED-xHP5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base| $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White
------------------------------------------------------------
2 | WLED-xHP5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base| $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White
------------------------------------------------------------
2 | 3022-xHP4: DE3175 LED Bulb - 4 SMD LED Festoon| $ 6.95 |
3022-WWHP4: Warm White
------------------------------------------------------------
1 | 3022-xHP4: DE3175 LED Bulb - 4 SMD LED Festoon| $ 6.95 |
3022-WWHP4: Warm White
------------------------------------------------------------
1 | UPCB-xWHP30-T10: 30 High Power LED Rectangle PCB Lamp w/ Wedge Base| $ 17.90 |
UPCB-WWHP30-T10: Warm White T10 Base
------------------------------------------------------------
Stock

"Natural white" LED

Comparo

Color matches the 55w 4500k HIDs almost too perfectly

This one shows how well they light up the housing


Even the "natural white" is a bit warmer than the stock puddle lights. But still much better.

Black interior isn't exactly ideal for showing off brightness, but it's still a helluva lot brighter than stock. You can also see the "warm white" doesn't look as you might expect a traditional LED to appear. I'm fine with that, but some might want it to look more white.
 
#12 ·
What about yellow bulbs for the H7 DRLs? If you can find them. Might look cool. Downside would be. Yellow highbeams.
 
#15 ·
I kept making the mistake of calling them H7s (I corrected my posts). The DRLs are 9005 bulbs.

Yellow bulbs would be pretty cool IMO. You'd just have to make sure it's legal in your state. If you live in a place with inspections, they might consider them to be fog lights and that you have no high beams.
 
#17 ·
They're all plug and play. The exception is that for turn signals, you're going to have to do something to avoid hyper blinking. I replaced my flasher to do this.

Those expensive V3 LEDs are a little more complicated than plug n play, but they are extremely bright! ...and worth the cost. They come as a kit with everything you need to get them installed.
 
#19 ·
would the hyperblinking be bad? i pulled a wrong fuse in my '08 evo and the fast blinkers seemed a little louder, i assume almost all new cars have those really quiet turn signals and i dont like that. id rather have the hyperblinking or whatever, if it makes me look like a teenager, whatever.
 
#24 ·
Not bad necessarily... When you have regular bulbs and hyperblinking, the bulbs hardly get a chance to light up before they're off again. In other words they're not very visible when blinking that fast. With LEDs it's less of an issue since they reach full brightness instantly.
 
#22 ·
I was complaining about that earlier; I just dont get why those options are not available to us (provided they are compatible with our vehicles), many of us would spring for some of those accecories I think (I know I would).Anyways... unless you fly out there, or know someone in that region of the world I see no way of getting those parts. Well theres always Craigslist. Saw a documentary yesterday of a guy that lived off of Craigslist for an entire month successfully (Craigslist Joe).
 
#23 ·
For those of you who disabled your DRL's, here's another option for DRLs. WebElectric Products (WebElectric Products - Sequential Turn Signals, Sequential Taillights, Sequential Tail Lights, Dynamite Stick Sequential, Pulsing Brake Light Pulser Flasher, One Touch Convertible Top, Dynamite Stick, One Touch Turn Signals, Daytime Running Lights, L) makes an inexpensive device that uses your turn signal lights as DRLs. I installed this product on my 09 Tacoma and it worked perfectly. I'm thinking about disabling the stock DRL setup on my 13 OB and installing this kit.
 
#27 ·
For those of you who disabled your DRL's, here's another option for DRLs. WebElectric Products (WebElectric Products - Sequential Turn Signals, Sequential Taillights, Sequential Tail Lights, Dynamite Stick Sequential, Pulsing Brake Light Pulser Flasher, One Touch Convertible Top, Dynamite Stick, One Touch Turn Signals, Daytime Running Lights, L) makes an inexpensive device that uses your turn signal lights as DRLs. I installed this product on my 09 Tacoma and it worked perfectly. I'm thinking about disabling the stock DRL setup on my 13 OB and installing this kit.
I think I have contacted them and they claim these do NOT fit 2013 OB....have they told you that they would fit?
 
#25 ·
I found a company that is willing to ship the OEM LED DRL for the EU Subaru. I was quoted 294,80 euro. which amounts to about 382.46. They are going to see how much to ship them to me, last time I tried to get an estimate for shipping it came out to a rediculous amount.

Here is the information and person I have been emailing with.

MS DESIGN GMBH
Jasmin HODZIC
Key Account Manager
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p> </o:p>
MS-Design-Straße 1, 6426 Roppen, Austria
Tel.: +43 5417 6363-208
Mobile: +43 699 16363208
Fax: +43 5417 6363-502
E-Mail: mailto:Jasmin.Hodzic@msdesign.at
Internet: http://www.ms-design.com
 

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#28 ·
Jogo, I do not suspect a new bumper is needed, but it does look like cutting into the bumper will be needed, which may be a turn off for some. I just emailed Jazmin for instructions which hopefully provide illustration on install.

I am **** determined to get these if they fit. I should have asked for orders to go to Germany, probably would not have any issues getting accessories there.
 
#29 ·
Here are the install instructions, somehwhat vague but gives a good idea of the install
 

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#30 ·
Looking Good! - but - good luck with that cutting into the front bumper... No matter what tools you have and no matter how skilled you may be, I would NOT do it.... the cut-off will have to be done, when bumper is out...(in my opinion) and should be "stamped" out rather than cut out with any kind of tool/saw, etc that I can think of...since there is no frame around LEDs - it's basically glued into the bumper. I've read those instructions both in German and English and they both recommend a "professional installation" - I would imagine by a body shop!
But, go ahead - you can be the guinea pig!
 
#31 ·
Guniea pig I shall be. I dont mind cutting into the front bumper, I suspect if i trace the template lines properly I cut it just fine with my dremel type tools. Besides the cutout will be covered by the DRL mounting frame

that glue is probably some pretty serious stuff and the DRL's arent going to just fall right off. I am going to take a look behind the bumper soon and see if there is anything in our models that interfere with install.

And if additional support is needed, I can have the local welding shop fab something up for me like they did for my fuse box.

They also make these for the other Subaru models, the Foresters actually comes painted to match the body color.

I think I might jump on this... and if I screw up I will let you know so you can give me the big "I TOLD YOU SO".

I wonder how many others are interested in this?



Looking Good! - but - good luck with that cutting into the front bumper... No matter what tools you have and no matter how skilled you may be, I would NOT do it.... the cut-off will have to be done, when bumper is out...(in my opinion) and should be "stamped" out rather than cut out with any kind of tool/saw, etc that I can think off...since there is no frame around LEDs - it's basically glued into the bumper. I've read those instructions both in German and English and they both recommend a "professional installation" - I would imagine by a body shop!
But, go ahead - you can be the guniea pig!
 
#32 ·
I am a bit sceptical about this mod....
After you make that cut-off hole, with whatever tool, the edges will not be as precise (smooth) as if it would have been stamped out.. there should be some kind of frame, to hide the imperfections...in my opinion.
There are many things that are made in EU and in JP but never make it to these shores.
I have brought rear gate grab bar from UK for 05 Forester; side window deflectors for 05 Forester, just as an example.
But anyway, good luck!
 
#34 ·
Yes Jogo I know the cuts will not be surgically precise, LOL, but it wouldnt bother me as I know that I all I have is my dremel. This is doable. Lets see if others chime in on this.

I think that even if i were somewhere in EU and took this to a dealer for install they would hand cut the holes themself...

Think positive Jogo!!!!


I am a bit sceptical about this mod....
After you make that cut-off hole, with whatever tool, the edges will not be as precise (smooth) as if it would have been stamped out.. there should be some kind of frame, to hide the imperfections...in my opinion.
There are many things that are made in EU and in JP but never make it to these shores.
I have brought rear gate grab bar from UK for 05 Forester; side window deflectors for 05 Forester, just as an example.
But anyway, good luck!
 
#33 ·
It appers the mounting flange on the light fixture is large enough to cover slight miscues in cutting. The only thing that scares me is the picture of a sawzall used to cut the hole. Even on soft plastic the potential to bind and kickback and damage paint is way beyond my comfort level. For me a Dremel or handheld 3" circular saw is called for with Dremel #1. This is truely a YMMV mod. Take lots of pics.
 
#35 ·
Have you calculated possible replacement of the front bumper, if you screw up??? LOL ... just kidding...in any case, I would take the bumper off and do it at home or garage....but that's me....I am sceptical about cutting plastic; especially if it is painted to match the rest of the car...OBnube is somewhat sceptical too....LOL... but, by all means - go for it!
I hope it will not come to: "...I've told you so..."
 
#36 ·
JCBERB:

I have checked this company out, it's run by some former Yugoslavian guys, hopefully legally living in this tiny little village in Austria...LOL...be careful with you money (payment) and such....remember "YUGO" - no matter how reputable Bricklin was, look what he was importing to this country few years back...LOL again
 
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