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Old 01-20-2013, 09:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rear brake pad replacement question

Well, after a few trips to the dealer because of squeaking brakes (and being told they were fine) it appears that the pads need to be changed. (right out of warranty, funny how that works).

Anyway, I have the pads/fluid/etc. but before I tear into the rear pads can the rear caliper be pushed in with a C-clamp or does it require a tool to turn the piston and push at the same time? My other cars have required this so wanted to make sure I have everything I need beforehand.

Thanks
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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No special tools required. You can open the bleeder and squeeze the piston with a standard caliper tool or the old c-clamp & scrap wood method. Nothing to it.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I use a c clamp and one of the old pads. Just remember to open the brake fluid cap and keep and eye on the fluid that it does not over flow. I have a syringe and tube that I taek some of the fluid out . After I'm done I suck all the old brake fluid out and replace with new.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlsubaru View Post
Well, after a few trips to the dealer because of squeaking brakes (and being told they were fine) it appears that the pads need to be changed. (right out of warranty, funny how that works).

Anyway, I have the pads/fluid/etc. but before I tear into the rear pads can the rear caliper be pushed in with a C-clamp or does it require a tool to turn the piston and push at the same time? My other cars have required this so wanted to make sure I have everything I need beforehand.

Thanks
As far as the cause of the squeak, cooling off hot brakes too fast can create a glaze on the pads and rotor, and cause squealing brakes. I took a car through a car wash once, when the brakes were hot. Brakes squealed until I replaced the pads and turned the rotors.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BHopkins View Post
As far as the cause of the squeak, cooling off hot brakes too fast can create a glaze on the pads and rotor, and cause squealing brakes. I took a car through a car wash once, when the brakes were hot. Brakes squealed until I replaced the pads and turned the rotors.
I agree - wife took the car to oil change place who told her she needed front and rear brakes (which corresponds to the dealer who told her she had about 40 % of pad left about 10-12k miles ago, has 48k miles now). $600 estimate just for pads. No vibration at braking so I am going to just replace pads.

Thanks for all of the info everyone. It's not my car but I guess I'm the mechanic so I'd better get up to speed on things. I wish my brake bleeder fit the reservoir but I'll have to use the 12yo to pump the brakes.
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I like to put some brake quiet goop on the back of the pads to be sure I don't get any squeaking.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I bought the pads with the integrated shims that say not to use the Brake Quiet. I guess I'll it with no goo but may have to go back.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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As far as I know you shouldn't be using brake quiet on the OB. It's only for cars that use non-shimmed brake pads.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I've been using it anyway for years with no issues or squeaks for that matter. Just a thin coat. Makes me feel better I guess...
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If I remember right it tells you right on the bottle not to use with shims. But if it works, what the heck.
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