440-watt 9-speaker harman/kardon premium audio system sound quality

[SubbackHH]

Hey man,

Thanks for thorough answer. I already found pics of your installed unit and think that it looks really good.
Have few specific Qs for now, and I'm sure that I will have more later hehe
1. What's a "regular" Kenwood unit vs. Excelon?
2. If that is the only Audio change you made, how big is the improvement in audio?
3. You're saying that getting new speakers may be next best step - I thought that our speakers are not that bad - being 2ohm it will be hard to find decent aftermarket replacement?

Thanks

[lashlee]

Thanks!!

Kenwood offers two lines. In the old days the Excelon units were only available to specialty shops, offered a two year warranty vs. one year, had higher output voltage, generally a better display and a few more bells and whistles. Some of the higher end models also have different internals like a better digital to analog converter for the CD transport. The most obvious change is from the matte grey to gloss grey.

The change from the OEM unit is noticeable but not ground breaking. I wanted nav, and was a past user and fan of the Garmin partnership in the Kenwood so it was a no brainer for me.

The change on the speakers as a recommendation is based on the general knowledge of OEM drivers. SOA in this case is buying drivers based on the economy of buying 1000's and a few pennies here and there can make a difference. Even a set of drivers in the $100 price range will sound much better than what is offered from the factory. I'm a big fan of the change that can happen with speakers since there are many variables and tastes of music. Someone may want a bright sound from the tweeter and some want a smoother sound. This can be achieved with two different materials of tweeter. Don't worry about the 2 vs 4 ohm. It will change the amplitude, but just barely audibly.

[SubbackHH]

I assume that would be $100 per driver (speaker?)

Any specific recommendations?
Def would not touch ones in dash..

[lashlee]

You could get a set of coaxes for the rears for $100 for the pair and the fronts would be about $100 for each, so $200 for the pair. The fronts should be a component set that would include a set of tweeters for the dash and the necessary crossovers. The components like additional power so an amp would be nice!

[SubbackHH]

You could get a set of coaxes for the rears for $100 for the pair and the fronts would be about $100 for each, so $200 for the pair.

Not Components front AND back?

The fronts should be a component set that would include a set of tweeters for the dash and the necessary crossovers.

Would that be in addition to tweeters on dash?
Crossovers?

The components like additional power so an amp would be nice!

That sort of indicates that standard-installed-included amp would not suffice? Additional one needed, or replace..?

..Thanks

[lashlee]

When it comes to speakers you have two basic varieties - coaxes and components. They both include four drivers (for a pair) but the components will use a crossover to divide the frequencies between the midrange and the tweeter. The coax will also divide the frequencies but will do it in a much simpler manner with a simple capacitor. Components will be all individual parts (two tweeters, two midranges and two crossovers) where coaxes will be just two parts (with the tweeter and midrange mounted together). You can put components in the front and back but you will have to cut the holes somewhere for the tweeters in the rear, or mount the tweeters over the midrange and make it a "coax". When you install the components in the front the new tweeters will take the place of the OEM tweeters, though you will have to add some wire since the OEM's may or may not have wired them to the midrange in the door. The standard amp may or may not, but in my experience when the new equipment goes in you will tend to use more volume. For some the OEM amp will not have enough power.

[SubbackHH]

Hey thanks man... Let me start my research now !

[SpiderM69]

I have a 2013 Limited with Nav, Eyesight. To my knowledge, most better systems are tuned to the car. My last two vehicles were BMW and Lexus, so I'm used to good sound systems, I'm also a musician who has dabbled in engineering (recording).

The system, as "Flat" in the graphic EQ sounds to me tuned to a smile curve, with bass and high end accentuated. Low end and high end are typically hyped these days, so this is not surprising, a lot of people prefer that. To me it sounds unnatural. The hyped low end sounds like it's introducing distortion in the entire system, which bugs me as well.

To counteract the built in smile curve, set your EQ in a "frown". Ie, reduce the lower and upper bands, leaving the midrange alone. I'm not through playing with the EQ yet, but the closest I've found so far to a more natural sound is to reduce the lowest 2 bands significantly (50hz and 160hz) and the upper two bands much less (6.3khz 10khz). This also results in reduced distortion, so all frequencies sound a little "cleaner" and distinct, once again, to my ears. 160hz is where a lot of the thump comes from. I've left 400hz at 0, but 400hz can be the sourse of a boxy sort of secondary mud, so you could adjust to taste as well. I suggest cutting frequencies rather than boosting. But to my ears with 50hz cut the most, 160 hz next, 10khz a little less than 160hz, and 6.3khz a little less than that, it's a pretty good sounding system (frown with greater cut on lowest two frequencies). And re a previous discussion, bass is nondirectional. That's why you can place a subwoofer anywhere in a room. Bass frequencies are usually the most troublesome because of their long wavelength, and can travel through most materials (think boom from obnoxious car next to you).

Hope this helps!

[SubbackHH]

Very short-lived parallel of sorts, but thanks for information.

In my non-Navi 2012, GUI doesn't have frequency readout. All I can do is modify Bass, Middle and Treble - hence the parallel...

I kinda did that already, as my settings are Bass -2, -3, Middle at around +1, and Treble +1 as well.

Kinda works, but inconsistency is astounding.

[NinjaTurtle2.5]

Here is my upgrade from the stock, non-nav, HK system:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/481667-post23.html

I hated the plastic look of the Subaru navigation, had this plan all along.
The new headunit really rocks the speakers, although dynamat (or similar) would help in the future.