Subaru Outback Manual Transmission issues?

[RobMunach]

Originally Posted by SkiBumLife

So this thread is the closest thing I've found on this site to the problem I've been having. I'm sorry if I just didn't find the right thread, I'm new.

So I have a 2010 outback 2.5 L 6 sp manual. I recently had the transmission fluid replaced at 30,000 miles. Not sure if/when this was done before. I just bought the vehicle 6 months ago. Ever since, when ever I drive 10-15 miles, shifting into grinds a little. I've had it back in and the dealer has flushed it twice saying they put synthetic in and that this tranny requires non synthetic. Something about the synthetic getting too loose and not allow the synchro for that gear to work properly when it gets really warm. They say it works like a clutch to synch the gears. After two flushes and refills its still happening. Now they want to pull the tranny and replace the synchros.

I'm not a huge car buff, Is this nonsense? It seems like nonsense.

I put synthetic Redline 75/90NS in the tranny of ours and it works fine.

[Cary]

I changed out the trans and diff fluid at 10,000 miles. I used Amsoil 75-90 synthetic. The car now has 45K miles with no issues at all. The synthetic actually helps to improve shifting at start-up during cold weather.

[subiesailor]

Originally Posted by SkiBumLife

So this thread is the closest thing I've found on this site to the problem I've been having. I'm sorry if I just didn't find the right thread, I'm new.

So I have a 2010 outback 2.5 L 6 sp manual. I recently had the transmission fluid replaced at 30,000 miles. Not sure if/when this was done before. I just bought the vehicle 6 months ago. Ever since, when ever I drive 10-15 miles, shifting into grinds a little. I've had it back in and the dealer has flushed it twice saying they put synthetic in and that this tranny requires non synthetic. Something about the synthetic getting too loose and not allow the synchro for that gear to work properly when it gets really warm. They say it works like a clutch to synch the gears. After two flushes and refills its still happening. Now they want to pull the tranny and replace the synchros.

I'm not a huge car buff, Is this nonsense? It seems like nonsense.

Very possible the prior owner damaged one of the syncros - synthetic gear oil should not impact the transmission regarding its ability to shift the dealer was trying place blame. I recall years ago some of the WRX guys damaging a syncro and having similar issues.

[SkiBumLife]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you guys and thanks for the info, I appreciate those that know more than I do about something who are willing to share that knowledge.

[kdetwiler]

In August of 2009, I purchased a 2010 Subaru Outback. I had heard great things about Subarus being reliable and as such, I am frustrated with my recent troubles with my vehicle. Wanted to let others know what happened to me in case it happens to you. (*I checked the recall that was mentioned and my vehicle was not part of that recall)

I have just under 36,000 miles on my outback and the car is about 3 years and 6 months old. One month ago, I was driving on the freeway at approximately 70 miles per hour and my vehicle made a bad screeching noise, jolted, and sputtered. By the time I had exited the freeway and pulled into a parking lot, the car was jerking and jolting and was making a strange whirring noise. When I put the car in neutral (note: manual transmission), the car died. I was able to re-start the car, and it was idling much lower than normal. I was going to try to drive it to the Subaru dealership about 4 miles away from my location and the car was not driving smoothly and was very jerky. Because the car was not driveable, I had it towed to the dealership.

The mechanic informed me there was likely a problem with the clutch. He couldn’t give me specifics at that time, but said once he got the transmission out of the car he could give me more information. Once the transmission was out, he confirmed that indeed the clutch plate, clutch disk, throw-out bearing, and another bearing all needed to be replaced. Luckily, the flywheel was not damaged. I asked what caused the problem, and he said the clutch disk had “hot spots” on it, and that it showed no evidence of misuse or mistreatment. He said the part simply “went bad.” I have had manual transmission vehicles since I started driving – 14 years – and I have never had to replace a clutch in my vehicle before. I was taught how to drive a manual transmission well, and I do not burn up or ride the clutch when I drive. Needless to say I was frustrated that the clutch “went bad” after only 35,000 miles of driving.

But then, the service staff person called and said that they put the car back together with the new clutch parts, and then informed me there was still a noise. To make a long story short, they took the transmission out of the vehicle again and the manager of the service department said that something came apart in the transmission, that it was a mess, and that they would need to replace the entire transmission. He said I would be back in my car by Tuesday of the following week, but the transmission they had ordered was on backorder so I was out of my car for a full month to the day.

Hope nobody else goes through this but if you do, hope this is helpful.

[Boxxerace]

Originally Posted by Pacomutt

Wrong on virtually all counts except for maybe slowing on slippery surfaces.

Respectfully incorrect. A clutch does not slip while engine braking. Worst case scenario, your oil might need to be changed at higher intervals.

And in regards of your example, I one up you with judicious engine braking + original clutch + 279,000 miles when we sold the (Honda) to the next buyer in working condition.

At nearly 300,000 miles on an original clutch, I think we can eliminate engine braking as a source of premature engine braking. Respectfully.

[SubyTechJoe]

depending on when he purchased his car, he may be over the 3 years, even though he's well under the 36,000 miles. So this would be a Non Warranty repair by time passed not mileage. However Subaru can "goodwill" a repair, and I have seen this done for Good customers, loyal to the product, dealer, or a combination thereof. Cudo's to the dealer for stepping up with goodwill, if you are out of warranty, Jeers if you are actually still under warranty, for them trying to make you seem like they are doing you a favor

[SubyTechJoe]

And respectfully Boxxerace, you can wear out a clutch with engine braking, and yes they can/do slip, if you think this is not possible park on steep hill put the car in gear and do not set the parking brake. Then get out and walk away. See if you trust a 300mm diameter disc that is 4mm thick inside and outside to hold the weight of the car. This is why it is recommended that on a hill you park in gear, set the brake and turn into the curb/side if the road. Because manufacturers know that BOTH the clutch and Parking brake can slip and may not hold the weight of the car. Or of you have extra $$$ to burn try a few missed 5-3 or 5-2 down shifts at freeway speeds, the clutch will slip until it overheats the bonding resins and then explodes.
Have done the 1st one, with my grandfather in Cincinnati when I was 1st learning how to drive, though we did not get out of the car. Have repaired the second one on an Sti with 1500 miles on the clock.
Also in the defense of the clutch, most Automatic Parking Pawl assemblies wouldn't hold up to that test either.

[ScoobyRu]

Originally Posted by SubyTechJoe

And respectfully Boxxerace, you can wear out a clutch with engine braking, and yes they can/do slip, if you think this is not possible park on steep hill put the car in gear and do not set the parking brake. Then get out and walk away. See if you trust a 300mm diameter disc that is 4mm thick inside and outside to hold the weight of the car. This is why it is recommended that on a hill you park in gear, set the brake and turn into the curb/side if the road. Because manufacturers know that BOTH the clutch and Parking brake can slip and may not hold the weight of the car. Or of you have extra $$$ to burn try a few missed 5-3 or 5-2 down shifts at freeway speeds, the clutch will slip until it overheats the bonding resins and then explodes.
Have done the 1st one, with my grandfather in Cincinnati when I was 1st learning how to drive, though we did not get out of the car. Have repaired the second one on an Sti with 1500 miles on the clock.
Also in the defense of the clutch, most Automatic Parking Pawl assemblies wouldn't hold up to that test either.

That's not the clutch slipping. That's the engine turning over.

If a clutch is slipping while engine braking, the clutch is already toast. Engine braking DOES NOT wear out a clutch. Downshifting without rev matching wears it out.

Question. Which requires more power: pulling a car up a hill, or slowing a car down a hill? If the clutch slips while going down hill, then it would certainly slip while accelerating up a hill.

[Looby]

Originally Posted by ScoobyRu

Question. Which requires more power: pulling a car up a hill, or slowing a car down a hill?

TECHNICAL FOUL! ...unsportsmanlike use of physics on TheInternets!

Looby