Whats the best way to break in a Subaru?

[reddoak]

Just don't beat on it for the first 200 miles, then take it easy until the 1,000 mile mark. Downshift occasionally and vary RPMs.

With 2,000 miles on it, it's broken it for driving. you may see a MPG increase over the next couple thousand, but at this point, just drive normally. Let it warm up completely before going WOT and so forth.

[imcja]

Like you stole it...

[Urabus07]

Originally Posted by imcja

Like you stole it...

well actually they are pretty broken in by the first 200 miles. after that doesn't really matter much. I put in dinosaur oil when I got it home and then will change back to synthetic around 500 miles

[Looby]

Originally Posted by Urabus07

I put in dinosaur oil when I got it home and then
will change back to synthetic around 500 miles

I don't plan to go all OCD about it, but does Mother Soobie say
anything about the factory fill? Is it fossil juice? ...synthetic?
...or maybe somekinda proprietary/magical break in brew?

Snug it down 'til it strips, then back off 1/4 turn,

Looby
.

[Euchre]

If you think about it, 1k miles really isn't all that much distance. I can crank that out in 12 days of my normal driving routine. If you wanted to make a real effort out of it, you could just knock off a couple of 100-150 mile excursions in a day or two, then go nuts closer to home bouncing around from spot to spot. If I didn't have a work schedule to keep, I think it'd be fun to just bust out on an impromptu 'break in tour'.

The instructions in the manual sound pretty much like you should drive like you're speedo doesn't work and you're too distracted to care. Maybe stick a piece of paper over your instruments and hold a contentious debate with your spouse or a friend. (Constant speed variation, intermittent light application of the brakes.)

I must admit my first thought when reading the thread title was:
1. Find the nearest snow bank.
2. Drive through it.
3. Check for any lost parts.
4. Done.
Its a bit like the Keith Black school of engine break in. Legend has it his idea of breaking in the engines he built was to fire them up, get the fuel mixture tuned, then do a raging burnout. Then again, he did build mostly drag racing engines.

Seriously though, modern engines don't require the same kind of meticulous break in that they did 30+ years ago. Just don't be a raging idiot, take it out to the track, or dive into an interstate road trip on cruise control in the first 1k miles.

[MiGreenOB]

My view is the engineers that designed the vehicle, any vehicle, know more about the proper break in procedure than anyone you'd find online (unless they are the engineer) so why would you not follow their recommendations. You can't hurt the vehicle by following the recommended procedure - you can't say the same if you don't. Within a week or so of getting my '11 I did an 800 mile road trip. It was no big deal following the recommended procedure.

That said there are 2 general schools of thought regarding vehicle break-in:

1) No extremes for the first 1000 miles

2) Wide Open Throttle ("drive it like you stole it") - which is done with race cars and aircraft engines.

Method 1). Goal is longevity and reduction in oil consumption in the long run. It allows for tighter resulting tolerances. I do this and have had good results from the standpoint of oil consumption over the vehicle life time.

Method 2). Goal is for maximum power by reducing internal friction through looser resulting tolerances. Race engines are rebuilt between each race. Aircraft engines are rebuilt multiple times over the life of the airplane. I'm hoping I'll never have to rebuild an engine in a personal transportation vehicle.

I'm anal enough about it that when I drive on the highway during the break-in period I vary the speed on the engine by either driving over the limit a bit, then drop the speed down to below the limit, and cycle that up again every 5-10min. Normal variations in traffic flow will probably accomplish the same thing, just don't use cruise control.

Roll the dice and take your chances...

[Peaty]

I've had quite a few new scoobies. First off there is no special break in oil used. I like to change the oil and filter at 500 miles, 1,000, 3,000 and 6,000 with Dino oil, then I switch to synth at 9,000 miles. After that I follow the standard interval depending on if I have a Turbo or NA motor. I know it sounds old school but I can say for sure this will not harm the motor. I have Blackstone oil analysis data to show that this works well since none of my Scoobies have ever burned oil. Until I see some actual proof other than anecdotal evidence I will continue the practice with my new Scoobies.

[awd-gg]

question? why would you drive a car any different during break in vs after break in? OK, maybe no redlining during Break in period and can deal with that. but anything else? hmmmm?

[Euchre]

Rings don't seat themselves fully right away. Not all of the tolerances have been cleared of potential excess material. That's also why you are supposed to change the oil the first time in a much shorter interval than after the break in period. As I noted before, the degree that this break in is needed is much less now, because of two major factors:
1. Modern manufacturing delivers better, more dimensionally accurate parts, which can sustain tight tolerances without as much 'wearing in'.
2. Engines are now run and tested BEFORE they are installed in the car. This was not always the case, and thus the most critical part of the break in is already done for you.

If you've ever rebuilt an engine and like most average enthusiasts and shops don't have a 'running stand' for engines, you've seen a brand new, first time fired up engine. You've seen the blue smoke pour out for the first few seconds as the assembly lube burns up, and the completely unseated rings and never before abraded cylinder walls bypass oil. You've seen how it looks fine as the engine goes for a bit, then the first time you burp the throttle, it smokes again. Same result the first time you ease up the revs then drop all throttle. If you've ever followed a car that has 5 miles or less on the odometer, and seen someone stomp it or drop all throttle, you probably have seen a touch of smoke. (I did dealer prep as part of working at a dealership shop, and I wear UV blocking sunglasses - you see even the slightest hint of burnt oil in exhaust as blue smoke.) An engine that's going to easily be expected to see 150k or more miles of lifespan isn't going to magically be all settled in in just a few minutes of running time under little or no load.