2012 Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure Thread

[Natetheskate]

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[Mootsfox]

Oh my how I loath fiberglass.

Subscribed to see how this turns out

[lashlee]

Originally Posted by snoslicer8

Decided to put in the second layer of fiberglass resin/cloth this evening since the mold was so dry already.

You know how they tell you to be careful, resin is nasty stuff, it gets on *everything*, etc., so on and forth?






They're not kidding.

On a brighter note, I now have designated "project" jeans. :-D

HAHAHA! I used to have a pair of shoes that were "fiberglass only" because they had laces that were now a part of the shoes and not removable! It's amazing what that stuff can do to any fabric.

[snoslicer8]

Progress is going to be stalled out until this weekend. I worked 12 hours today, and work again tomorrow.

This weekend, I need to find someone with a jigsaw that I can borrow.

I've measured out a template on cardboard to cut a piece of MDF that will sit *almost* flush inside the base of the fiberglass portion. I'll attach it with some resin and throw 3-4 layers of resin/cloth on at where the two pieces meet. I'm also contemplating putting in a 8x6 inch piece of MDF on the portion of the fiberglass that covers the cubbyhole opening. The fiberglass is so flat there, and seems to be the weakest part of the whole thing. The portions around the wheel well are almost solid/non-flexing, and that's after only two layers of glass.

The vertical piece of MDF will be almost perfectly rectangular, nothing fancy. Just trying to create enough air space. The speaker will mount toward the rear of the enclosure. I haven't decided yet if I am going to saw the opening a little larger and glue a speaker ring to the inside of this piece, in effect flush-mounting the sub. I think it'd protect it more, so we'll see how I feel this weekend.

I still need to sketch an outline on cardboard for the top MDF piece, I'd like it to follow the contours of the trim right beneath where the cargo cover snaps in...think that'd look pretty slick.

I'll update more this weekend!

[lashlee]

When it comes to flat areas you have a few options. You can brace it with MDF, rope or a few other things. I usually build up the box with 8 or 10 layers of glass so it's usually about 3/8-1/2" thick.

When I build an enclosure I always try to flush mount the sub for a couple of reasons. Like you said it helps with protection as well as making the overall impact of a more finished appearance. It can also help when it comes to making a grill. Here is a pic of the last install I did in my Honda Fit. A simple spare tire well box with a recess for the amp all covered by a trim panel with cover for the sub and amp.


Here is a link to the entire install for your viewing pleasure: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/388189...t-hatchback-4d

[snoslicer8]

OKAY.
So.

This weekend, I decided to sort of start over.

I went to test fit the fiberglass enclosure back into its spot in the car, and it seems to have sagged, perhaps it was a bit too soft to have out of the car yet. However it happened, it no longer sits flush in place without forcing it in and holding it - this can't be good.

I took the opportunity to cut out the pieces of MDF, contoured them to the car's trim where I want the wood to meet the fiberglass, and re-taped the interior. I'll be waiting for Wednesday to lay the first of the new glass mold, as the weather is supposed to cooperate. This time, I'm also going to lay two or three layers and let it dry/set completely before I remove it from the car.

Here are some pics of the work I did this weekend:

Enclosure base made out of MDF instead of flat fiberglass


Enclosure front - left of the pencil line is what will actually be the front of the enclosure, with a larger speaker cutout. Right of the line is the speaker mount that will be gorilla-glued inside the front panel, creating my flush-mount speaker hole. Since I am using 3/4" MDF, it actually ends up recessing the speaker just a tad, which is even better for protection.



My [borrowed] jigsaw battery ran out of juice, so progress is stalled until I can find a charger.

More soon...

[lashlee]

One thing I can recommend is to let the enclosure cure in the car for as long as possible, up to a week. I try to leave it in for as long as reasonably possible since the glass will twist as it cures.

As for the false start, it happens to all of us!! It will turn out better this time. I think you'll find that you've learned alot and it will move along better this time.

[snoslicer8]

Originally Posted by lashlee

One thing I can recommend is to let the enclosure cure in the car for as long as possible, up to a week.

How many layers of glass do you put down before giving it time to cure? Do you try to lay all of them and dry all at once? I've heard that's a good way to avoid bubbles/sanding.

[lashlee]

I try to lay down as many as possible at a time. Using a roller will help with the bubbles, and with the right conditions you can keep on trucking. I usually try to get about 3 to 5 as a good base.

[snoslicer8]

I finished sawing up the front panel of the enclosure today. Here it is:



I cut out a square of the MDF and jigsawed a 9.25" hole in it to be the mounting plate. This plate is fastened behind the main front panel with Gorilla wood glue and 8 2.25" #10 wood screws. Without mounting the speaker with its 8 screws and rubber gasket, here's what the un-carpeted panel should look like with the speaker:

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I'm waiting for warm weather on Friday to start re-laying the fiberglass for the rear of the enclosure. More updates then...