Tell us what you forgot to ask/do

[Hudsoner]

I wish I would have gotten leather seats. I had no idea that the fabric seats get dirty that easy (even with tons of Scotch Guard on them). Manual transmission, no moon roof, no navigation and no eyesight were right choices.

[hiker74]

Have a "course" at the plant in lafayette where potential owners can go and test out Subaru products vs. their top 4 competitors. You could have a sand pit, simulated ice/snow, skidpad, small road course. I dont think it would be that expensive to nab a Ford Escape, Hyundai Santa Fe, Chevy Equinox and a Toyota Rav4 (that may be a political exclusion given that Tooyota owns 23% of FHI though

[catric69]

Toyoda has under 16.5% ownership in FHI. Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd.

[Restlessk]

Originally Posted by bradze

not getting limited trim was a mistake. i probably should've gotten a 6cyl as well

I got Limited trim, and am reasonably glad I did, but I got the 2.5 and really wish I had gotten the 3.6. The 2.5 really acts like it's laboring the whole time you drive it. I would suggest that if you're considering the 2.5, that you spend time trying out both a 2.5 and a 3.6. Plus, given that in 2013, the Outback actually regressed fuel mileage rather than improved it, there's less of a fuel mileage advantage to the 2.5.

[DieselOx]

Have the alignment checked soon if it's at all twitchy on the highway. Heck, see if they'll check it first, it's pretty common to be off from the factory, and it can make an immense difference on long trips. I waited 14k miles and had mine done, I wish I did it the first week, made a huge difference.

Think carefully about whether the CVT is the right choice for you. If you absolutely are going to sell the car around the end of the warranty, then get the CVT for sure, but if you might keep the car 15 years and will be on the hook for repairs after the warranty, Subaru North America still can't repair a bad CVT. The only option is a new one, $8500. The manual also has closer to 50/50 drive, the CVT is more like 90/10 until something slips. I also like the old known center diff (liquid coupling, instead of dry discs) on the manual.

Either choice would be a great one, just make sure you know what you're getting into, and are comfortable with the possible consequences.

[edawg]

Ditto the observation about steering "feel" being twitchy/tighter than you may expect. I love the precise feel now, but I'd take a longer test drive to check it out. I think the 2.5i/CVT is a great combo personally. When you need the power, it's there and it's really quiet in most situations.

Will try to avoid other good suggestions given already here:
- Do a FULL test run of both his/her cell phones with the stereo bluetooth. My old iPhone 3S has been "touchy" and the Service guys can be invaluable to help while you're at the dealership.
- Look at the dealership to see if they sell cars with the original Subaru sticker or "2nd sticker". The higher volume guys seem to sell cars with factory equipment and make volume discounts instead of trying to bump up their margins. The smaller guys will have 2nd stickers with accessories and more "personal" service but be pricier. There are always exceptions to every rule here, but this is our general experience.
- Be willing to walk away this month (nicely) and come back in late Dec. End of quarter works better than end of month to get good deals.
- Do consider after market leather if you don't want to splurge for a Limited model. The replacement of interiors has become almost normal in the industry, especially for Toyota products. Check other posts here for examples.

Otherwise, be ready to really, really enjoy a love-child of mid-sized SUV and sharp handling sedan!

[dboz]

Originally Posted by mpnret

I agree with the OP. The port is almost always cheaper than buying online or otherwise afterward. My port installed RS was less than $300. You seem to be confused between port and dealer. The post above offers you a good explanation. My OB was purchased in NJ and built in Indiana but the "port" where final assembly and accessories are installed was Boston.
Occasionally there are some exceptionally good ebay deals, like those of us who purchased OEM remote starters for $100. But that's the exception not the rule.

Post up pick of the window sticker with proof of $300 port installed AS please. I would love to eat that crow.

No wonder delivery fees are do high if you need to load and unload a new car three times ust to make it to the dealer. Talk about inefficiency and screwed up logistics. Indiana to Boston to plug in a few wires then clear to Jersey from there.

Yep I am surely confused.

[dboz]

Originally Posted by DieselOx

Have the alignment checked soon if it's at all twitchy on the highway. Heck, see if they'll check it first, it's pretty common to be off from the factory, and it can make an immense difference on long trips. I waited 14k miles and had mine done, I wish I did it the first week, made a huge difference.

Think carefully about whether the CVT is the right choice for you. If you absolutely are going to sell the car around the end of the warranty, then get the CVT for sure, but if you might keep the car 15 years and will be on the hook for repairs after the warranty, Subaru North America still can't repair a bad CVT. The only option is a new one, $8500. The manual also has closer to 50/50 drive, the CVT is more like 90/10 until something slips. I also like the old known center diff (liquid coupling, instead of dry discs) on the manual.

Either choice would be a great one, just make sure you know what you're getting into, and are comfortable with the possible consequences.

I found this info fascinating. Either manual trans buyers are being SEVERELY ripped off, or Subie is losing its ass by making a transmission that is 1/3 the price of the car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-OUTBACK-L...4a78b2&vxp=mtr

[G-Omaha]

Originally Posted by dboz

Post up pick of the window sticker with proof of $300 port installed AS please. I would love to eat that crow.

No wonder delivery fees are do high if you need to load and unload a new car three times ust to make it to the dealer. Talk about inefficiency and screwed up logistics. Indiana to Boston to plug in a few wires then clear to Jersey from there.

Yep I am surely confused.

Sticker price is always retail and not invoice or something lower, if you can get it. All Subaru cars, including those that are manufactured in the USA must pass through a "port" as they are technically a "foreign" product - not inefficient; just the way it is. Sometimes the car does not actually "pass through" the port; however, the paper work does. At these port locations, there are facilities to add accessories (other than dealer only installed accessories).

I will agree with you - Yep you are surely confused and quite good at informing everyone in the forum about it. In other words, you know not what you talk/rant about.

Cheers....

[G-Omaha]

Originally Posted by DieselOx

If you absolutely are going to sell the car around the end of the warranty, then get the CVT for sure, but if you might keep the car 15 years and will be on the hook for repairs after the warranty, Subaru North America still can't repair a bad CVT. The only option is a new one, $8500.

Realistically, the $8,500 you present is totally bogus. After 15 years (that would be in 2027 or so), you should be able to get a used CVT in good shape at any "U-Pull-Em" for under a couple hundred dollars - probably near the same cost as a manual transmission. The only option is buy a new one - No, there will be many other options available after the drive train warranty has expired.