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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 11,736
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Could simply be a Mastercylinder that had a flaw in it and the fluid change simply brought the flaw to the surface.
I would expect Subaru to at least share some of the cost. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Car: 2011 OB 2.5i Prem CVT HK/AWP, Ruby Red Pearl
Posts: 1,651
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Doesn’t take much to bleed brakes, just did my Accord last year (every 3 yrs) and the fluid is clear after 6oz per corner = 1 (32oz) big bottle to bleed the car. But after bleeding 72oz (18oz x4) and your pedal is still sinking, MC most likely. Leaking seals, luck of the draw it seems here.
Shop cost, I’d say ~$250 independent mechanic. Your garage, ~$100 parts. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 206
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Well, Subaru was no help, and wouldn't help so I am a not very happy.
Dealer wants $277 for a new one and a reman A1 Cardone runs 110 from the local auto parts. I will probably go that route. Has any had any problems with Cardone stuff? It doesn't come with the reservoir or sensor, Im assuming it is pretty easy to transfer over? I have only done the old school 1 piece master cylinder on old cars. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Car: 2011 Cypress Green 2.5 ltd
Posts: 728
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Power bleeding with the right equipment is much easier on the system and practically guarantees no bubbles and a firm pedal. When I changed fluid at 30,000 miles this was used and the cost was about $80 including fluid.
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Arnold, MD
Car: 2011 Outback 2.5i Premium, CVT, Steel Silver, all-weather package. Upgrades: Tweeter kit, BlueConnect, media hub, remote start, Curt 2" receiver hitch.
Posts: 600
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
Also, I am a fan of the ATE Super brake fluid. You can get it in clear or blue, which makes it easy to see the fluid change.
__________________
-Jesse 2011 Outback 2.5i Premium, CVT, Steel Silver, all-weather package. Upgrades: Tweeter kit, BlueConnect, media hub, remote start, Curt 2" receiver hitch, 19mm RSB. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Car: 2011 Cypress Green 2.5 ltd
Posts: 728
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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It is a one man operation. I do not do enough work anymore to own one, (I use the vacuum pump style on my motorcycle). I had it done at the Subaru dealership, I believe they use a BG power bleeder. The complete removal of old fluid, any debris, and bubbles left a very good feel with the brake pedal, and inexpensive peace of mind.
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 37
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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On two previous vehicles, I had the MC fail after a pad change. In both of those cases, I pressed the pistons back into the calipers and, thus, back into the MC. Now, when I press the pistons back into the bores, I loosen the bleed screw and let the fluid leak into a large pan. Using this method, I have never hurt a brake MC since. The back pressure must be pretty great to blow the internal seals of a MC.
Of course, I then have to bleed each caliper after the pad replacement. Maybe this is what happened to you?? |
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