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Old 01-29-2013, 01:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Could simply be a Mastercylinder that had a flaw in it and the fluid change simply brought the flaw to the surface.
I would expect Subaru to at least share some of the cost.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Doesn’t take much to bleed brakes, just did my Accord last year (every 3 yrs) and the fluid is clear after 6oz per corner = 1 (32oz) big bottle to bleed the car. But after bleeding 72oz (18oz x4) and your pedal is still sinking, MC most likely. Leaking seals, luck of the draw it seems here.
Shop cost, I’d say ~$250 independent mechanic. Your garage, ~$100 parts.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, Subaru was no help, and wouldn't help so I am a not very happy.

Dealer wants $277 for a new one and a reman A1 Cardone runs 110 from the local auto parts. I will probably go that route.

Has any had any problems with Cardone stuff? It doesn't come with the reservoir or sensor, Im assuming it is pretty easy to transfer over? I have only done the old school 1 piece master cylinder on old cars.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:32 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Its really easy. Hardest part is bleeding the system afterwards (easy just annoying)
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Power bleeding with the right equipment is much easier on the system and practically guarantees no bubbles and a firm pedal. When I changed fluid at 30,000 miles this was used and the cost was about $80 including fluid.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Power bleeding with the right equipment is much easier on the system and practically guarantees no bubbles and a firm pedal. When I changed fluid at 30,000 miles this was used and the cost was about $80 including fluid.
What brand of Power bleeder do you have and is it a 1 man operation?
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:32 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Ive done the hand pump one, where i use that to start things then just let gravity keep it going. Surprsingly the only shop near me with a power bleeder is a Iffy Lube, all the others prefer the old fashioned method. They say it is quicker.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:45 AM   #18 (permalink)
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What brand of Power bleeder do you have and is it a 1 man operation?
I know you weren't asking me... But I use a Motive power bleeder. I haven't used it on my Subaru yet, as I only have 33,000 miles, and it is only 1.5 years old. However, I have used it on VWs and Toyotas. It has worked very well. I also ended up getting their catch cups so that I can bleed more than one wheel at a time and not make a mess.

Also, I am a fan of the ATE Super brake fluid. You can get it in clear or blue, which makes it easy to see the fluid change.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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What brand of Power bleeder do you have and is it a 1 man operation?
It is a one man operation. I do not do enough work anymore to own one, (I use the vacuum pump style on my motorcycle). I had it done at the Subaru dealership, I believe they use a BG power bleeder. The complete removal of old fluid, any debris, and bubbles left a very good feel with the brake pedal, and inexpensive peace of mind.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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On two previous vehicles, I had the MC fail after a pad change. In both of those cases, I pressed the pistons back into the calipers and, thus, back into the MC. Now, when I press the pistons back into the bores, I loosen the bleed screw and let the fluid leak into a large pan. Using this method, I have never hurt a brake MC since. The back pressure must be pretty great to blow the internal seals of a MC.

Of course, I then have to bleed each caliper after the pad replacement.

Maybe this is what happened to you??
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