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Is there a patron saint of Subarus?

5K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  eagleeye 
#1 ·
Hello!
I just joined the forum, after lurking here on and off for years since I bought my first Subaru in 2006! I love my car, but lately it has been one thing after another with it, and my husband, who is a heavy equipment mechanic, is right out straight at work and doing side work, and we had to put alot into it for the inspection. he I really don't want to be a nag, so I decided to sell my subaru :crying: I figured we could use the money to buy an old mid 90's Jeep, something cheap, simple and fun to work on, give him a break you know? With that in mind he rallied and fixed the remaining issues, got it all cleaned up, and we started to rethink selling it. But the ads were already out and we started getting calls. The interested parties we have shown it to have all pointed out the shudder it has when parking, and pulling out of a parking spot, and it does it occasionally while driving as well. These are both issues we took to the dealer while the car was still under warranty, and they said it needed plugs and wires, and or bushings, and, yeah we go through those things like toilet paper but did not resolve the problem and we just let it go. figured it was just the way the car is. I don't even really notice it anymore, since it doesn't affect the driveability in any way. But I guess to a potential buyer, the quirks of our car are not so acceptable. So, my subaru is still faithfully waiting in the driveway for the next family adventure! (Is there a patron saint of subarus?)

Now I need your help! My husband says if I can tell him whats might be wrong he will fix it. It's my job to amass the info and present it to him in usable form.
I guess "Hey hun I read on this subaru forum that thing the car is doing might be the selenoid."
"What selenoid"
"Um the one that's connected to the...um...transmission? I cant remember. Maybe it was the AWD, the thing that controls the...um makes the thing tell the other thing how fast the wheels are going...? Isn't helpful?!

Where should I go to ask? I have tried searching but I am getting nowhere fast.
It's in the driveline. He does not think it is the driveshaft. The transmission shifts normally and smooth like it should. No codes. Front CV's have been done, rear have not and probably are due soon but he just doesn't feel like that's the issue either.
Thanks in advance!
Mandy
 
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#2 ·
what brand of CV axles did you put on? things cheaper then quality subaru remanufactured ones do not last,...and grown / growl.

steering axle / boots need inspecting.

oh and the word is spelled solenoid.

.can you record the noise, post it somewhere and link it here.?
 
#4 ·
on these lines of questioning: very slow turns / figure 8s

when was the last time the automatic transmission fluid was changed?
auto trans fluid filter,...if it has one (some do some don't)_?

when was the last time the differential gear oil was changed front and rear?

edit: and automatic or stick shift?
 
#7 ·
If the tires are different, and if the AWD clutch is binding, there can be shuddering (torque bind effect) going straight as well as when making tight turns.

I did not want to use those bad words :drama:,....without a linked video or sound clip and a response on the fluids.

On the bright side:recently that guy with the 1998-99 on long island, ditched the slow turn clicking sound by simply flushing the trans fluid..
 
#9 ·
In first or reverse gear, which is normally the case when parking, the AWD drive is more responsive to the throttle than, say, in 4th gear with torque converter lock-up. So at slow speeds, with a bit of throttle, the clutch might be driven by a larger duty cycle signal than when cruising. If the clutch isn't permanently binding, but is advancing prematurely, there could be torque bind symptoms when parking. In straight line driving, in higher gears, if the tires are different, the build up of torque in the drive train could be slower than when making tight turns, and as the clutch isn't being driven (engaged) as tightly, the symptom might appear only periodically, perhaps more when accelerating and less when under light throttle or coasting. Of course, if the tires are all identical, then there's no reason for the build up drive train torque when going straight, even if the clutch is inappropriately engaged. (Although, in reality, there's no perfectly straight driving -- there's always small curves and corrections, albeit minor and usually of no consequence.)

It's just a thought that it's easy enough to check the tires before focusing on other, more complicated possibilities.
 
#11 ·
1. check tire pressure, size, and tread depth
2. change ATF.

it is most certainly not the rear CV axles. Subaru rear axle failure is nearly unheard of.

aftermarket axles are extremely problematic as well. one should always reboot Subaru axles which routinely last the life of the vehicle.

in the future - forums like this can help own a vehicle reasonably without relying on dealer/mechanics and throwing money at bushings and spark plugs which don't fix your issues.
 
#13 ·
An 06 2.5i Auto would still have an FWD fuse, right?

Why don't we have her put it into FWD and see if the problem's still there? Either confirm or rule out torque bind right away.
 
#16 ·
That's because it has a 5EAT with VTD. My '08 3.0R didn't either.

But I think a 4EAT will in any year.

So, OP, follow these instructions (put in the front wheel drive fuse), drive it, and let us know if there's any change:

 

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#15 ·
This has been going on for years btw, I didn't really make that clear. There have been several sets of tires, and a number of things done over the years to the car with this shudder remaining and unchanging.
The AT fluid and filter have never been changed.
The turning shudder and the shudder while driving I thought were seperate issues, at least to me the shudder going straight was way more noticable. The subaru techs had to drive it a couple times to feel it. They acted like I was crazy. But my husband says he thinks they are related.
There really isn't any noise, you just feel it. While going straight up the road its just a light shudder like you went over cracks in the road.
I did the figure 8 thing and yes it does it then. I notice it pulling out of parking spots or when I hit the gas to get the rest of the way into the spot.
Also, I may be crazy but after the first couple laps it got better. Maybe was just going faster after the first few, that was kinda fun ;) The kids thought I was losing it lol!
I did circles too, I read that post about doing 20 circles both ways.....maybe there is domething to that?
It has 4 nice matching tires. This fall I put on 225/60/r17 instead of 225/55/16 and I really noticed it much more, it has gotten better though.
What did i miss...got to go reread..

Incidentally, the last two days it was really cold out and I had some trouble steering, right out of the blue. My husband hasn't looked at it yet, he replaced a belt or something last year, maybe something with the steering rack he said.
 
#17 ·
Ok, my husband put in the fuse and drove the car and it didn't do it anymore. This was on messy roads, not dry pavement.
I also had quite a ride the other day, the roads were glazed with ice, and the car was going down the road so weird, like all four tires were going in different directions. It's the strangest feeling, like it's going to roll right over. LOTS of fun I tell you....and it doesn not do this in snow or even slush.
 
#19 ·
where you driving on a slippery road with the Front Wheel Drive fuse in?
....like driving a nice long front drive car,....vs. a AWD car with its locking rear wheel axle.
 
#20 ·
You need to tell us if the FWD fuse fixed it or not - so far you said it was only during messy conditions - so it may have been the conditions alleviating torque bind, not the FWD fuse.

It sounds like it's just torque bind. If the FWD fuse fixed it - then have your husband install a simple wiring circuit to enable/disable that FWD fuse - it can be done in minutes. Cut the wire to the FWD fuse, install two long wires to the cabin inside the vehicle and install a simple toggle switch.

Essentially you can leave the FWD fuse in - so it's always in FWD - then flip the switch during snow/ice so it'll then be "locked" in 4WD, giving you excellent traction.

Granted you may not want to sell a car like this....but some of us do this modification on purpose so we can control the 4WD - though we do it on vehicles that are working properly so we have AWD and "locked" 4WD.
 
#21 ·
if the FWD fuse fixes the issue - then the clutch plates in the rear extension housing need replaced and the housing checked. after all these years the other part may need replaced - the gouges can be sanded down...forget the name of the part.

it can be done in the vehicle - transmission does not need to come out. sizable job but not really that complicated or much to it.

1. remove exhaust
2. remove rear driveshaft
3. remove rear extension housing
4. go to town on the 4WD guts

should be plenty of write ups about how to do it online - search for those.
 
#22 ·
The scary ride down the icy interstate was before he did the fuse test.

He did the fuse test while the roads were still messy and it seemed to resolve the issue but he said he wasn't 100% sure because of the driving conditions.

Thank you for your replies :) VERY good info, thats the kind of pointers he was looking for.

IN THE MEANTIME....
With this severely cold westher his truck was logey, he has almost hit 300k, and has an oil pressure issue that makes it hard to sit in traffic. He is determined to get over 300k before putting in the new motor. Point of pride I guess ;) SO he has been taking the Subaru ( yes I quickly pointed this out hehe) and a couple days in or so he tightened a belt, and guess what!!!!! No more shudder when cutting the wheel hard :) the next day I asked him when I was getting my car back and he says, very quietly, so the car wont hear us, the hesitation is gone. Gone.
Still GONE.
He thinks it was the transmission filter. He DRIVES. Drove the **** out of that car. And it fixed it. He says I dont drive it hard enough and it sits alot so the filter was defective and or clogged and there was low flow or something like that. He is going to replace the transmission filter this weekend.
Does this sound too good to be true? Is this really possible? Have you guys seen this happen before? What could cause it?
Thank you SO MUCH
 
#24 ·
Since you all have been so helpful so far, one more thing...
Does anyone have any ideas about why it is so sketchy on slippery roads/ice? It feels like all four wheels are going in different directions. Never felt anything like it. Neither has my husband. I noticed it a little a couple years ago but not like this. It goes great in snow, even rough surfaced ice. But with a glaze on the roads or a light dusting that sticks its very hairy.
Any clues to point him in the right direction?
Maybe tires? I have Yokohama Avid Touring -S 225/60/R17 with maybe half tread left if that on it now. Stock size is 225/55/R17 but a half size shouldn't hurt right?
I am not putting new tires on until I get the car sorted out, I cant afford to ruin tires at the rate this car eats them up...
 
#27 ·
The thread is huge - let me summarize:

#1 thing to do is get an alignment to the updated specs, preferably with a full tank of gas and maybe 200lbs in the back.
#2 is replace the shocks, especially the rears with the 00-04 version (direct replacement).
#3 is new tires.

If you do #2 have it aligned a week or so after the shocks have 'settled'
 
#30 ·
Patron Saint?

I have no intention of hijacking, I must ask though, The use of "FWD" means 4 wheel drive or Front wheel drive? This circuit that gets switched; does it disable the center differential? Thereby "locking" the driveline into a true 4 wheel drive? Is that the idea here?
 
#31 ·
I have no intention of hijacking, I must ask though, The use of "FWD" means 4 wheel drive or Front wheel drive? This circuit that gets switched; does it disable the center differential? Thereby "locking" the driveline into a true 4 wheel drive? Is that the idea here?
basically it is a function of the 4EAT or 5EAT cars (Electronic Auto Trans).

by utilizing a fuse in the under the hood fuse and relay box you can shut the power transfer off to the rear wheels. So you are turning a All Wheel Drive car into a Front Wheel Drive car.

I am not sure about CVT cars and if the function remains.

this was a handy idea if you could put a spare tire (or odd size tire) on the rear and shut power off to the rear wheels so as to not damage the transmission with the miss matched tire. Or if you were having a problem with the various drivetrain parts going to the rear.


1996-1999 cars have a fuse to remove to give Front Wheel Drive,

2000-whenever, cars have a socket to put a spare fuse into to give Front Wheel Drive.

(someone please augment or correct if need be)
 
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