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FrankenBuild #3 / Rock & Roll Car Show #2

44K views 400 replies 17 participants last post by  KentuckyOutback 
#1 ·
OK, folks, I've been offl-ine or a bit. Maybe many are happy, But sorry...I'm -BACK. So is Frank. We are going to show again this year, at the end of July. The KBPI Rock & Roll Car show. This year, we definitely do the AutoCross and the 1/4 mile.

1st on the menu...new custom...CKE ( Christopher Kraynack Enterprises) custom 3rd Gen rear sway bar body mount reinforcements. Nothing particularly special. Just another "body mount wrap". I first juat tacked them at 90* and then bent them to the mounts on the chassis. Now they need to get bead run, then I will drill in the appropriate locations

But made by my hands. More to come, hopefully in a timely schedule.
 

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#2 ·
I see you got new little dogs in your avatar today too.

Is Francine on the road,...or comatose and pissed off that her doctor is not working on a fix?
 
#6 ·
well they look nice, just need a bigger pic of them. Hope Rosie the cat gets along with them.
 
#7 ·
Yep, I have a new goal.

Welcome back!
...Been way too long.

well they look nice, just need a bigger pic of them. Hope Rosie the cat gets along with them
I watched them for a couple weeks, a couple weeks too long. The rust colored one was a pain. Rosie held her own like a mountain lion, protecting our room and her food. Glad to be back at my place with Frank and the cat.
 
#8 ·
you need a avatar like this,...a trail, a dog, and a chick:
"trail - dog - ck"

 
#11 ·
My eyes immediately found a 4-1/2" trail hanging out of that brown furry thing :grin2:

And, if he's doing a stage 3 build, I'm sure all he sees what he looks at his car is this:



Maybe I could name my car Katie? LOL
 
#12 ·
WOW...Katie! Tom was a fool.

Despite that distraction, I made some small progress on Frank's new custom RSB brackets. I did a final fit, on the car's RSB chassis mounts. The 1st pic is of the Cusco brackets that were currently installed, being replaced. I have painted mine orange, for clarity in the pictures. I matched the final angle to the car and verified it with and angle gauge.

I am basically copying the Cusco, which has about a 1/2" lateral flange. However,the Cusco's are bent @ a 90*. Mine will be welded and conform to the stock chassis brace. In both angle and will taper from 1/4" at the very bottom to 1-1/4 at the top, by the rear sub-frame bushing. My thinking it, if I push so hard to break weld, then...the bracket did it's job, re-weld or install a new one. Call it a race consumable.

Now, they just need to be welded. Then of course, drilled and ground to be pretty.
 

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#13 ·
I got the beads laid. I will grind and drill tomorrow, maybe. Not much else on the docket today (rest maybe). I wrenched with Jimi1976 on his '05. Driveline Fluids. I will most likely not do much else on Frank today, Oh...ordering new injectors. Ed/XRT...is not a fan at all of deatchwerks injectors...of which mine are brand new.

I am looking into his recommendation, Injector Dynamics. So...I guess I'll be spending money...wrench time later
 

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#17 ·
Ok. The car show date is now set at August 23rd. That gives me a few more weeks than I had planned to have. It doesn't help tho. Ed and I have decided to go with bigger injectors. I have a brand new set of DeatchWerks 850's up for sale now.

Injector Dynamics 1000's, COBB, or anybody else for that matter...don't make side feed injectors. That means, my fuel rails and TGV deletes (that I did myself...like 20 hrs of work, maybe more) are not going to work with the new injectors. I breifly tossed around getting an aftermarket long intake runner. But they are like $1100-$1300...yikes.

There are long intake runners that come stock on many models. But with my upgraded/big AVO TMIC and my stock turbo location, none of those are going to work. If I had gone the FMIC route and a different turbo, then something off another model would be feasible. But not now. I have big money in my piping already. All AVO, Perrin and Subaru SPT.

So it looks like I am off to SuperRupair in Boulder...to pick up some top feed stock TGV's to gut. Just like the same as carpentry...I do it right, cause I do it twice. The second time always comes out better. At least that what I tell myself for consolation.

So you all see, I didn't gain ANY time. In fact, I may have lost some. I better get on the road...the race clock is ticking.
 
#20 ·
Looking good!

I'm thinking about fabbing up some of those trailing arms, like the megan racing ones you have. Any chance you could get me a couple good shots of them? I'm assuming its just a straight bar/turnbuckle
 
#22 ·
Don't tell...but I can do more than that...dimensions??? But yes, exactly...nothing more, they do have a nice bushing in them. But a generic poly would be just like the Whiteline kit.

And if you're (un)lucky three, four, and five times! LOL
Not on TGV deletes...not even for money.

As it turns out, I don't have too. I am giddy, almost. I didn't even clean them for pics. Doug, the salvaged/used parts manager up there....ALWAYS does me a huge solid. Today was no different, in fact the best yet. The 1st pic is on the hood of the XJ, I couldn't wait. The last is of my previous custom delete (side feed injector)

These came off a '07...NA 2.5 (non pzev). I got top feed injector TGV valves, but no butterfly valves to gut, totally smooth. Fuel rail complete. He wopuld have given me injectors...but I have no use for them. AND a purge control solenoid (that I broke)....$52.

And saved me over 20hrs work to gut them. All I have to do is clean them up, and drop them in. Plus they have studs in critical spots vs bolts. Not hard to do myself, but didn't think of it. Now I don't have too. And they were the only ones he had. What a great guy. I know it is his job, I drove from Denver...always worth the trip. Sometimes you eat the bar. :29:
 

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#25 ·
These are for InTheBay...

Colin, I sent you a personal email as well, might be easier if you want DL them.
 

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#26 ·
Hey Traildog - what were the original issues with the deatchwerks injectors? My understanding from what my tuner explained were they were the safest for the 5EAT for longevity and paired with the walboro fuel pump it would be a pefect pair. Just curious.
 
#29 ·
So from what I understand...there are 2 issues. When it comes to "master tuning". The DW don't have the same "broadness" of data...feedback. Like a regular O2 sensor vs a wideband. That might be nit-picky on that point. But, more important, the top feed provide a better balance. The fuel rail fills a tube, above both injectors/per side. Like a barrel, and the injectors draw from that. The tube is balanced by the pressure regulator.

The fuel rails for the side feed are individual veins per injector. They rely solely on the pressure regulator to get it right...at high volume and pressure. The top feed is just a better system for big fuel balance and big power. It was a decision to get back out of the corner...as far a fuel delivery.

BTW...I have the same DW pump.
 
#28 ·
******* Parts Washer



Well...The industry standard is top feed. Ed/XRT prefers the extra data he can get from the Id's or COBB's. More information for him to use. Even tho, I could get the flow...I decided...happy tuner, happy Frank...happy tdck. Ed has tuned the DW in the past, but...I decided to plow the road...make it second nature...if you get me.

So, Straight up, My ******* parts washer...re-usable:

1 gal of solvent
1 basin
parts

Scrub with your newly sacrificed toothbrush. Drain the solvent back to the can, trash the debris, use again.

I cleaned up my new top feed TGV's...on my kitchen island...once again. I haven't decide if I am going to hone or port them further. They already look better than the deletes I made last year.
 

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#31 ·
So. I had a job interview today...piece rate remodeling work. Easy Peasy. Good $$. But it got me close to my place, about the same time UPS showed up with My Injector Dynamics...top feed 1000's. Of Course with the USDM Subaru "plug & play" connector kit.

This company is definitely top notch. I am very happy to have made this decision. I will show a fuel rail comparison...in a later post.
 

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#32 ·
I spent some time on the intake plenum as well. I got it off my master bed...and moved it to the master bath...for a tubby...after a final sand on the hood of the XJ. (At least B*tch Kitty is good for something)

I had to do it outside with pending weather...but all good. I got the final coats in/on, and I have her shown on top of the new TGV's.
 

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#39 ·
Give me something real, something modest. Big fun is fine, but, the real deal thank you. Oh, wait I'm not talking about cars.

Now, I'm talking about cars. It turns out I made a mistake. And now it makes sense.

These came off a '07...NA 2.5 (non pzev). I got top feed injector TGV valves, but no butterfly valves to gut, totally smooth.
My salvaged TGVs actually came off a 1997, hence to butterfly valves, not the same emission requirements in '97 as in '06. That makes sense. I found the ghost of 97...that showed up, salvage markings. Kinda etched in the aluminum, after my ******* parts cleaning.

So anyone looking for top-feed injector, free-flow TGVs...'97 car.
 
#40 ·
I'm staying back at the "jobsite for a week". But I brought goodies to work on. The intake rode in the XJ where Brigid usually sits. That tells you something. Yet another coat of color on my Franks Intake plenum....Enough is enough though I think. Its gotta be. 8-10 coats is better than 2 right?

I brought the up-pipe also. So I can work on the bung for my EGT (exhaust gas temperature) sensor.
 

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#41 ·
Ok...a little rough spot to start. This is what I left to stew under Frank's blouse...like 5 months ago.

What a mess. I have to remove the driver TGV, remove all of the "storage rags", remove that bullsh*t green electrical tape..."plug". Remove and replace the fuel rail. Then start from the bottom up with the new blue silicone hose kit.

Ugh.
 

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#42 ·
looking at your spray on the cardboard sheet reminds me,...

I think I may hang my stuff up on old bungee cords to paint it similar to @Boxerwerks and their steel rolling rig.

I really like that though,... spray it outside, (summer or winter) and roll it inside to dry, if need be.

I think I can at least hang a straight pipe between 2 trees and wait for the stuff to get dry to the touch and then move it inside to finish.

in the background of the image:
(screw slow charcoal,...I am a propane griller all the way) :smile2:

 
#44 ·
Don't paint in the winter outside. The paint won't bond and will be a mess to clean later.

You can build a cost effective paint booth in your garage with some vinyl coated steel line, dollar store pva shower liners and white duck tape.

If you paint in the winter just put a space heater near your parts to be painted and heat up the parts with a heat gun and soak the cans in hot water.





 
#45 ·
Don't paint in the winter outside. The paint won't bond and will be a mess to clean later.

You can build a cost effective paint booth in your garage with some vinyl coated steel line, dollar store pva shower liners and white duck tape.

If you paint in the winter just put a space heater near your parts to be painted and heat up the parts with a heat gun and soak the cans in hot water.
That's so interesting...I do the same thing...not so much the heat gun, (but I have done it )my parts are usually warm (kept in my apt)...but I do heat the paint in hot water...so it is warm (above 70*) as it hit's the colder air (below 70*).

But honestly, I do that more with my models than real car parts.
 
#47 ·
We just use heat guns. It works fine.

We modified a set of legacy GT mufflers for the 08 outback and used VHT on the welds for the chrome down turns. No rust problems.

Also used it on the motorcycle blocks, also no problems. Painted 2 winters ago and run two springs and the blocks look great.
 
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