Warming/Cooling Turbo-08' OBMT 2.5xt

[gmez]

I just got my first Subaru, an 08' OB 5MT 2.5xt with ~50k miles. So happy to finally be a part of the Subaru family. I drove this car come about 1,200miles and didn't even let my friend, who I flew out to help drive, get into the drivers seat. The only thing I'm not super happy about is the mileage, however I think this is partly due to the Stage 1 flash from the AccessPort. I've included the only image I have, the car is covered with frost in the early morning cold of Wyoming.

Anyway, my question is regarding the warming and cooling off of the turbo. Up to now I have been letting the car get warm enough so that the blue temp light turns off. Then driving easy until it's past the first temp marker. Though for cooling I've just been turning off the car. Can someone help direct me to the right procedure to prolong the life/performance of the turbo?

I wanted to thank this forum for all the great info in the threads. Hopefully I'll soon be able to contribute some knowledge.

Thanks,

Giuseppe

[Seabass]

You're doing it right. Go easy on it until it's up to temp. Don't worry about idling until the light goes off, just be light on the throttle.

For cooling off, best practice is to not turn the car off immediately after beating on it. Give it 30 seconds or so of light driving or idling after driving hard to let the turbo cool off a bit. According to Subaru, even that brief cool off period is unnecessary, but it certainly won't hurt to do it. Other than extremely hard driving, there's absolutely no need to let the turbo cool off. The way the cooling system works, there is coolant flowing through the turbo even after the engine turns off if it is hot.

[DrCloud]

Originally Posted by gmez

...the Stage 1 flash from the AccessPort...

Up to now I have been letting the car get warm enough so that the blue temp light turns off.

You didn't say where the 1,200 mile drive home started, but if it was where they sell 93 octane gas, you may be running the wrong Accessport map, unless you changed it. Because only 91 octane is available in Wyoming (at least, I think this is the case, as it is for sure in Colorado), you should be running the 91 Stage One map. (I asked Cobb about this one time and got this answer, despite the reason they sell 91 as the highest grade at elevation is because, at elevation, it acts like 93.)

And -- you probably know this -- the blue light goes off when the car is warm enough to use S# mode on the I-drive. Subaru probably thinks that people who drive the car hard use S# a lot, so this implies they think it's OK to drive hard when that light goes off -- at least that's my interpretation. HPH

[1 Lucky Texan]

I don't have the blue light, but I 'try' not to drive away from a cold start for 15seconds, I 'try' not to hammer the car to redline until it's at normal operating temp. , and I 'try' not to park it immediately after a highspeed run.

more or less what seabass said.

no need for a 'turbo timer' (unless perhaps you actually race the car regularly)

do you use synthetic oil? it supposedly is less likely to 'coke' on a turbo bearing.

Still, highly unlikely you will have a problem as you seem to be careful with the car.

[gmez]

Great thank you everyone for your input. Forgot to subscribe and was pleasantly suprised with all of the input. I'll continue taking it easy until she is warm, this is the nicest car I've had and I plan on babying it...until of course I'm on the open road and the engine is warm ;-)

Seabass...Maybe this is a dumb question, but do you just use normal coolant?

DrCloud...I just realized that yesterday when playing around while waiting for warm up that I couldn't engage the S# with the blue light. Also, I purchased the car from Denver and am now in Portland. The map is now set at Stage 1 91, but I am unsure of what it was at before. Though I'm pretty sure it only had 91 before. Do you know if 93 is available in Portland, OR? What's the difference in performance?

1 Lucky Texan...I have not put oil in yet but know that is all it's had. I just picked up some Castrol Edge just to have in the car. Any input on good synth oils? Or is there much of a difference?

Thanks again

[tdelker]

A very popular oil is Rotella T6 5W40. At walmart for $20 for 1 gallon (note you will need slightly more than a gallon to bring the dipstick up to full).

There are plenty of other options, including dino which is probably just fine as long as you stick with the 3750 miles, but I've opted to go to Rotella at the ripe old age of 95k, but keep the OCI to 3750 still.

Some say to avoid Mobil 1 with our turbos.

Also, plenty of warnings about using only OEM subaru oil filters because of bypass valve pressure setting. Buy them on ebay in sets of 12 with the drain plug washer.

[gmez]

Originally Posted by tdelker

A very popular oil is Rotella T6 5W40. At walmart for $20 for 1 gallon (note you will need slightly more than a gallon to bring the dipstick up to full).

tdelker...What is the difference between 5W30 & 5W40, it does say 5W30 in the manuel correct?

[tdelker]

Yes, manual says 5W30. 40 has higher viscosity (doesn't flow quite as well). Yes, it is against the recommendation. Do some research on here and other forums and see if you want to go this route. Or choose a different oil.

Tom

[DrCloud]

Originally Posted by gmez

DrCloud...I just realized that yesterday when playing around while waiting for warm up that I couldn't engage the S# with the blue light. Also, I purchased the car from Denver and am now in Portland. The map is now set at Stage 1 91, but I am unsure of what it was at before. Though I'm pretty sure it only had 91 before. Do you know if 93 is available in Portland, OR? What's the difference in performance?

Yeah -- I-Drive doesn't go into S# until that blue light goes out, which was the point of my comment.

If you can get 93 octane in Portland (if it's available, the major oil companies will have it), do so, and re-map to the Stage I / 93 octane map. You will like it.

Indeed, you will probably like it so much that you'll notice a decrease in urban mpg, the solution for which is to stay out of S# and put a raw egg between your foot and the accelerator pedal. This will accomplish two things: it'll defeat the purpose of the AccessPort, and it will make for a really, really messy shoe. HPH

[gmez]

Originally Posted by DrCloud

If you can get 93 octane in Portland (if it's available, the major oil companies will have it), do so, and re-map to the Stage I / 93 octane map. You will like it.

Well looks like all we have here is 92! Any way to acheive 93 results with 92?

Originally Posted by tdelker

Yes, manual says 5W30. 40 has higher viscosity (doesn't flow quite as well). Yes, it is against the recommendation. Do some research on here and other forums and see if you want to go this route. Or choose a different oil.

Tom

Hey just went through some older forums regarding oils...jeez didn't know there was so much behind it. So it seems the 40w is better as the Turbo produces heat that can effectively reduce the weight, but 40w should be fine unless it's REALLY cold outside. Also the 30w produces a bit better mileage as it's less viscous?

Seems most XT owners here use the 5W40 you mentioned, but I'm still not 100% clear on the main benifit...is it performance or engine protection?

Thanks,