Auto transmissions fluid replacement schedule

[David4123]

Dropped my 08 2.5 i for a 60k check . Got the mid day phone call with "notes from technician". Your car should have ;
1. 260 dollar transmission flush.
2. 100 dollar power steering fluid flush.
3. 100 dollar differential fluid change.

My first question is this necessary first of all?
More importantly why don't they go over this in the am during the drop off?

I stayed with dealer maintenance as I have some coupons to use from the Chase card which are like cash but when the car was new they tried to tell me it needed a "non warranty part" causing a buzzing under the car when cold. I told them no as I knew it was a heat shield that needed a bend. At the time I dealt with a service rep sitting at a divided desk area . When I balked at the "non warranty part " which caused the "exhaust system to be removed" in a half hour another guy was listening behind the wall who then came out and said forget it.

I just don't feel I can trust these people after the first experience when new.

[Blue Whale]

These people are just trying to separate you from your money. You can follow the fluid change recommendations in the owner's manual. If I were you, I would find a different (independent) place to have car maintenance done; there's no reason to support a business that you can't trust.

[rasterman]

I don't think there is an expectation that the fluid will last forever. More likely they couldn't accurately suggest a replacement schedule that fit all driving styles, climates, etc. So instead they have advised us to inspect it every 30k and replace as needed.

This seems entirely reasonable to me.

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted by Artbuc

I found a Subaru bulletin that explained the differences between regular Subaru ATF and Subaru HP ATF. Regular is a Dexron formulation for 4EAT 2005 and earlier. HP has a different friction package for all 5EAT and 2006 and later 4EAT. Main point is that neither is synthetic.

My Subaru dealer stated that "Subaru ATF-HP was a synthetic." Can anyone confirm that the HP version is or is not a synthetic ATF?

[mike552]

Originally Posted by 147_Grain

My Subaru dealer stated that "Subaru ATF-HP was a synthetic." Can anyone confirm that the HP version is or is not a synthetic ATF?

Nobody can confirm that except the lab scientists working at Idemitsu. From my understanding, they are treating it like a trade secret. (a la WD40, Coca Cola, etc.)

The best guesstimate is that it is synthetic (or synthetic blend), which I believe to be true. This is because its minimum "pour point" is -60degC. This is typical of a synthetic. As a comparison, the non-synthetics normally have a pour point of around -50degC.

[147_Grain]

One would think that if the HP version was a FULL synthetic that it would be advertised as such.

Nothing negative about stating it's a synthetic, but a little turn-off to says it's a conventional.

I agree that the specs lead you to believe the HP fluid is likely a semi-synthetic ATF.

[H61]

Change the ATF before it becomes discolored, burnt or oxidized. It seems many wait until this point or until the car “does not downshift” any longer. The best thing you can do for your transmission if equipped with a drain and fill is drain it ever 15-20k. I do mine every 15- 20k and manage to get 6 quarts out each time by putting a floor jack under the driver side frame rail and lifting/tilting the car about 6-8 inches. You will only get 4-4.5 Quarts out if the car is left flat or lifted equally from the front. I drain the fluid when it still looks new, smells new and has the same properties it did when it went in. I have been doing this for 200k on my 01 H6 with Mobil 1 one synthetic ATF as well as changing out the spin on filter under in the driver front wheel well area every 50 k. My 09 3.0R is on the same change interval except I use Subaru HP fluid. I measure all fluid after it cools and put the exact amount back in and the levels are always perfect. Once fluid is discolored, burnt and oxidized the damage is already done, don’t wait to that point. If you constantly change out 6 Quarts in a roughly 10 Quart system every 15- 20k the fluid will always be factory fresh and the Trans will live a long happy life. If you plan on keeping the cars over 100k you will be rewarded with a more efficient car that is far less likely to have very expensive transmission issues. Fluid is cheap, repairing a transmission is not.

[Thunderchild]

I drain and fill my trans fluid every 20 to 30 thousand miles. Usually every 4 oil changes. I use the Subaru HP ATF fluid. I heard it was synthetic some time ago. Do not remember the source though. I am about to turn 124,000 miles and I plan on keeping it as long as possible. That would be 300,000 miles or more. I also change my diff fluids every 50,000 miles.

[bassplayer]

Originally Posted by David4123

I just don't feel I can trust these people after the first experience when new.

This is typical car dealer service. Their techs are no better than the independant garage and a GOOD independant will be much better, IMHO.

This past summer I left my wifes Outback at the dealer we purchased from as there was some kind of recall notice. We were going on vacation for a week and would not need the car. The passenger side front window was non functional so I asked them to look at that as well. Needed a window motor.

When we got back to pick it up, we find out that the car was no longer at the dealership. The car was at the body shop having its rear window replaced and rear hatch and bumper repainted. Seems the mechanic who worked on the car backed into a fence in their parking lot. To add insult to injury, they never bothered to call us and let us konw that there was an issue.

Trust me, my cars will never be in their service bay again, I don't care if the service is free; its not worth damaging my car from careless mechanics.

Now that winter has set in, I find that my rear window defroster dosent work....

[fendertweed]

As in many things re fluids, "lifetime" is a loaded term... if you never change your ATF, the lifetime of your tranny will almost surely be less than if you do.

I change it every 30k-45k, cheap insurance and it does help keep it shifting crisply, etc.