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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 11,468
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
The chatter is simply just the clutch material vs plate when its cold. As I said this chatter effect can get worse if you slip the clutch a bunch and burn off a bunch of material. The chatter will also go away after a while of keeping the slipping to a minimum. I put 140,000 miles on the 2001 which is the year subaru changed the compound in the clutch material and had people complaining about the chatter right and left. Some dealers replaced the clutch with updated one with reduced chances of chattering. I simply drove mine till it needed replacement at 140K which by the way the release bearing was squealing at that point the clutch had 10% left on it. Ask them if the release bearing can be removed and what condition the input shaft is in? That might shut em up about how your transmission is some sort of special case unlike any other subaru transmission built ;-) |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 11,468
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On the flip side
"Hey Jimbo - this thing sounds bad owner is freaked out -- Jimbo -- Yes its the release bearing no big deal tell them they need a new transmission charge them $3000 and we'll just do a full clutch job on it and sell them back their own transmission for 3x the price! Heck they won't be the wiser |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Alabama
Car: 2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
Posts: 208
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The only reason you would even think about replacing the transmission during a clutch job would be if the input shaft is damaged due to trying to drive on a dead throwout bearing or clutch. At that point, it's generally cheaper to pay for a good used transmission than to pay for the labor for the replacement of the input shaft. The "kit" he could be referring to is an input shaft repair kit.
However, it does not sound like this is your case. It sounds like you simply need the clutch kit replaced (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing) along with the flywheel replaced (the new flywheel will come with a new pilot bearing already pressed in). ~$170 for the clutch kit plus $225 for the new flywheel plus $800 in labor (assuming $85/hr) If your mechanic insist that he has to "replace" the transmission for a simple clutch replacement, show him this. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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I spoke to the mechanic again and here's the story. The release bearing slides on some kind of metal sleeve. Well the sleeve got chewed down about 1". Normally, you can just unbolt it and replace it, but on this car it's a permanent part of the transmission (really bad design). They were able to find this kit that has a part that slides over the sleeve so you can just replace the clutch and not the whole transmission. So $1300 for the clutch and $580 for the kit.
While I'm on this message board, here's another question for you guys: two years ago I had to replace a front right axle boot. This year, I had to replace a front left axle boot. This is our third Subaru and the only one that has ever had broken axle boots. Again...warm climate here. Why are these breaking and is there something I can do to prevent it? |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Alabama
Car: 2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
Posts: 208
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
Makes sense. I agree it is a very bad design. On previous cars I've owned, the release sleeve is considered a wearable item replaced with the clutch. I'm still on the fence as to whether my Subaru is a good car or not. Lot's a really really good things mixed with really really stupid ones. It's a love-hate relationship. As far as the boots, I don't think there is anything you can do about it. Both sides have failed on mine. Both times have been the inner. Some people blame the close proximity of the catalytic converter on the right side failing, but that doesn't explain why the left inner boot fails. The strange thing is that usually the outer boots are what fail on most cars. They are subject to the most movement and harsh environment. The important idea: replace with Subaru parts only. A used Subaru part from the junkyard is better than the crap aftermarket ones. If you go the used route, replace the boots with new Subaru boots before it goes on the car. BTW, I picked up used Subaru axles off eBay for $30 bucks each. Only 35,000 miles on them. That's after a turned in my Subaru axles as a core for the crap aftermarket ones from NAPA. Live and learn. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 11,468
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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By the way the most common axle / boot scam is for shops to replace your very good Subaru axle with a cheap knock off - get a nice sum of core trade in value for the old part and you end up with an aftermarket part that is known to cause lots of issues shortly down the road. Always!!!! Replace boots before replacing axles! You want to keep the original axles on your car for as long as possible to avoid additional problems.
As for why they tear - they are simply rubber boots covering the joints in the axle - weather and driving through rough debri like chunks of ice etc can cause the boots to tear. |
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