2005 Outback clutch problem

[BBgolfer]

Hi All--
I have a 2005 Outback Limited 2.5L turbo with a manual transmission. I started having clutch problems and took it to my mechanic. He found what's wrong and said that with model the clutch is part of the transmission. They are searching for some "kit" that would help them fix the problem without having to replace the entire transmission. Has anybody ever heard of this?? Excuse me for not being more "technical" but I don't know anything about this stuff. Just making sure I'm not being ripped off or mislead.
thanks for any help!
--Beth

[subiesailor]

Originally Posted by BBgolfer

Hi All--
I have a 2005 Outback Limited 2.5L turbo with a manual transmission. I started having clutch problems and took it to my mechanic. He found what's wrong and said that with model the clutch is part of the transmission. They are searching for some "kit" that would help them fix the problem without having to replace the entire transmission. Has anybody ever heard of this?? Excuse me for not being more "technical" but I don't know anything about this stuff. Just making sure I'm not being ripped off or mislead.
thanks for any help!
--Beth

Beth - with virtually zero details your not going to get much of a response regarding the things to be aware of etc.

How many miles are on the car?
And what was the car doing that caused you to think you had issues with the clutch?

I have some ideas as to what it might be but your mechanic not giving you any details tells me right away you need to get your car back and go some place else.

[subiesailor]

For basics
A slipping clutch normally experienced first in 2nd and 3rd gear means your clutch needs to be replaced - with subarus this normally happens between 130,000 and 180,000 miles depending on how good you are with the clutch. A loud screeching funny sound that changes when you press the clutch in vs leaving it out - is the well known release bearing failing - which case most people simply have the full clutch job done given this part is replaced when the clutch is replaced. Not having it fixed and a failing release bearing can damage the input shaft resulting in a far far more expensive issue of possibly having to replace the transmission if the damage is bad enough.

A proper clutch job on your car involves replacing the release bearing the pressure plate and the clutch. Not replacing those three major parts will result in problems again very shortly.

[BBgolfer]

The car has about 95,000 miles on it. The clutch was making a noise when depressed (like a whirring noise) and when I released it to try to get into gear it would "chatter" and sort of drag like it was going to stall. When I dropped it off with them, they said it completely died when the mechanic took it out for a test drive. Since I don't understand any of the technical terms I will do my best to remember what he said. It's not the hydraulics. It was something in the housing or sleeve that the clutch sits in (???). He said that normally, you could just unscrew 4 bolts and replace the clutch, but with this particular model, it is part of the transmission. Does that help any?

[subiesailor]

Originally Posted by BBgolfer

The car has about 95,000 miles on it. The clutch was making a noise when depressed (like a whirring noise) and when I released it to try to get into gear it would "chatter" and sort of drag like it was going to stall. When I dropped it off with them, they said it completely died when the mechanic took it out for a test drive. Since I don't understand any of the technical terms I will do my best to remember what he said. It's not the hydraulics. It was something in the housing or sleeve that the clutch sits in (???). He said that normally, you could just unscrew 4 bolts and replace the clutch, but with this particular model, it is part of the transmission. Does that help any?

Sounds like release bearing which would be a standard clutch job however at 95K that would be pretty early for this type of issue. The chatter guessing this is happening as your letting the clutch out - ingear to get the car moving. Any chance your in very cold temp location? The chatter rough clutch effect is caused by the cold clutch material grabbing the pressure plate. This generally gets worse when the clutch is dragged and the material gets burned off and heated up excessively. As the car gets warmed up and the clutch material gets warm the chatter effect is not as bad as say the cold morning first run of the day.

Does that sound like what your experiencing?

[subiesailor]

By the way - a full clutch job with all the parts being discussed replaced at the dealer shouldn't cost you more than $1300. And its a drop off at noon pick it up the next morning type of deal. Your mechanic may make it into a much bigger deal with a larger price tag.

The only worry would be that the release bearing damaged the input shaft but at 95K I highly HIGHLY doubt that is the case. The Chatter is not something to worry about given it has to do with the clutch material - cold temps and the clutch being dragged ie slipped too much causing the pads on the clutch to get grabby with the plate. This chatter effect will go away if you avoid dragging the clutch its either on or off - no dragging it in slow traffic or on hills to hold the car or make the car roll slower than 1st gear with the clutch "ON".

[BBgolfer]

Originally Posted by subiesailor

By the way - a full clutch job with all the parts being discussed replaced at the dealer shouldn't cost you more than $1300. And its a drop off at noon pick it up the next morning type of deal. Your mechanic may make it into a much bigger deal with a larger price tag.

The only worry would be that the release bearing damaged the input shaft but at 95K I highly HIGHLY doubt that is the case. The Chatter is not something to worry about given it has to do with the clutch material - cold temps and the clutch being dragged ie slipped too much causing the pads on the clutch to get grabby with the plate. This chatter effect will go away if you avoid dragging the clutch its either on or off - no dragging it in slow traffic or on hills to hold the car or make the car roll slower than 1st gear with the clutch "ON".

Warm climate (North Carolina). I have driven only manual transmissions for 36 years and I've never burned out a clutch. This is our third Subaru and we've loved them...but this one seems to be experiencing some very unique problems. The thing that's weird to me is that my mechanic said that "with this model" you can't just take out the 4 bolts and replace what's broken. He said that it's tied directly to the transmission and that's why they have to replace the transmission to fix the clutch. There is nothing wrong with the transmission. Also...the clutch was only "chattering" going into 1st gear. No problem with the higher gears.

[BlueCorn]

Are you sure he didn't say "Remove and replace" transmission? (R&R)
That's just mechanic speak for "I have to remove it to fix the problem and then I'll put it back. It doesn't mean he's replacing the transmission.

[subiesailor]

Originally Posted by BBgolfer

Warm climate (North Carolina). I have driven only manual transmissions for 36 years and I've never burned out a clutch. This is our third Subaru and we've loved them...but this one seems to be experiencing some very unique problems. The thing that's weird to me is that my mechanic said that "with this model" you can't just take out the 4 bolts and replace what's broken. He said that it's tied directly to the transmission and that's why they have to replace the transmission to fix the clutch. There is nothing wrong with the transmission. Also...the clutch was only "chattering" going into 1st gear. No problem with the higher gears.

I would get a new Mechanic. LOL - the clutch in your car is no different than all the other subarus. Very possible the release bearing failed or is failing causing your squeal sound with the clutch pressed. However this is not a replace the transmission thing it actually comes in the clutch kit the dealer buys when they do a clutch job on your car.

[BBgolfer]

Nope. He's searching for this "kit" which would be a work-around. Otherwise "replace" the transmission ($4000). I'm assuming "remove and put back" wouldn't be $4000. Also, he said that he could look for a used transmission but with the turbo/manual it would be harder to find.