Replaced the window switch unit in the drivers door. Something broke in it (felt like a spring missing) and the drivers window was going up and down randomly and not moving when I pressed the buttons.
5 minute job.
All good now!


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Replaced rear disc brake pads to find neither of the lower slide pins moved freely, these are the ones with the rubber piece at the end. Replaced with new OEM parts greased up with permatex caliper lube now the movement on the pins is way better.

 

Dropped Kurt's driver seat off at the upholsterer to have his seat cover repaired.

This is the before:

Will post the after pictures when I get the seat back!

 

Got my seat back. It looks good!

 

What was the damage for the seat repair?


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Cost me $100.00 for the labor, and I supplied a cover I got from the junkyard off a sedan. The sedan seat is just a bit taller so it wouldn't swap right over.

He also replaced the outer bolster on the bottom cushion with the left over material.

 

Today I got into the car and noticed a weird warning chime I’ve never noticed before. It was a different tone than the normal seatbelt chime. So there was two chimes. Anybody get this??

 

was getting a lot of vibration at anything over about 30 mph. felt like it was coming from the front L so I changed out the axle and ball joint. still there. dealership said I needed a new drive shaft. I had purchased 2 axles, but hadn't put the other one in the R side yet. almost bought a new drive line, but figured I should put the R side axle in first and then go check out the junk yard...didn't need the drive shaft after all.

think this might have been the problem?

 

Did the dreaded H6 spark plug change on Saturday. Wasn't nearly as bad as I was prepared for. Now hopefully the p0420 goes away

 

Actually picked up vehicle from repair shop last night but...
At 86500 mileage
VCG gaskets replaced right side
Front end links and sway bar bushings replaced with subaru units
Full steering gear box assembly replaced with new subaru unit
4 wheel alignment

 

Might I suggest upgrading bushings to poly. In some instances it will add vibration and noise. Sway bar bushing wont be bad though. They do make a difference and wont wear like oem.

 

Dropped ours off at the dealership for new head gaskets. They were leaking oil, bad enough to annoy me.

Subaru replaced the dash at no charge a few weeks ago, that changed the demeanor of the car totally.

The old dash had the slick sticky spots. They caused glare on the windshield and just flat out made the dash look ugly, and that set the mood of the car - so much better now.

 

I bought my 2005 Impreza Outback Sport (2.5L,na, M5, 107,700 mi) at an auction nearly three months ago. I've done a lot to it. Here's a summary:

1. Complete interior and exterior detail, with rubber/plastic/weatherstrip restoration. Cleaned carpets. Cleaned the rubber floor covers and treated with a rubber restorer.
2. Treated giant coffee stains on fabric seats -- took multiple treatments and a full week, but now they are 100% gone and the car smells awesomely good.
3. De-oxidized the headlamp covers so they are clear again
4. Repaired two small stone chips in the windshield.
5. Replaced the oil pan (rusty and leaking), pan gasket, oil and oil filter.
6. Replaced the engine air filter. Disgustingly cruddy no more.
7. Replaced the brake system from the wheel hubs out on all 4 wheels: rotors, pads, calipers, bolts, etc. Turns out the hubs were rusted and warped so I had a pro grind them level, and paint them black with a rust treatment paint. Yay, brakes work, wheels turn and no more pads rubbing on rotors.
8. Replaced pads, hardware, etc on parking brake
9. Changed out the front and rear wiper blades. Polished the front and back glass with Nu-Finish. Treated the wipers with silicone lubricant. Wow, what a difference!
10. Drained and filled the radiator with Subaru brand coolant. Runs cooler now.
11. Gorilla-glued shut a 2" gap where the plastic cowl molding had separated from the windshield. Someday, the plastic cowl piece and glue will come off if I ever need to change the windshield.
12. Replaced and balanced all four of the (bald) tires.
13. Replaced high and low beam headlamp bulbs. With clean lamp covers and new bulbs I can see down the road like in a new car.
14. I'd say "replaced the cabin air filter", but there was none to replace -- as I just discovered when I got the compartment open to see. So I installed a cabin air filter where there had been none for years.
15. Tomorrow it is getting new NGK spark plugs, spark plug wires and spark plug boots
16. This weekend I'm cleaning the MAF sensor.

 

skid plate modified from 2001. it sits lower then original plastic one but its enough space there for it to bent some and still protect lowest part.
If i would choose to cover those exhaust pipes as well i would loose more clearance, im thinking for me its more in front to skid on something when you coming on angle not like i would fly on high speed via rocks and i need proctect everything from that danger. Thats was never reason as i dont have roads like that here.
Skid plate for gearbox not on just measured how it would look there.

 

Did an oil change and swapped out the RSB for a JDM one. Fought me for a while until I realised the letters dont face up, I had it upside down. Dropped rh muffler for more room.

 

New Blizzaks for the winter wheels, and removed several ounces of sycamore seeds from on top the engine. I think a squirrel has been stashing them there.

 

And on schedule, we're being forecast 6-7" of snow on Sunday afternoon and evening, so I guess I'll be fitting these wheels this weekend. Glad I'm not driving home from a Thanksgiving trip then.

 

thinking about should i get new AT tires again as i did on 2001 outback, and then i got most expencive AT tires out there in this size it was BFG TA KO2 ones. they super heavy they eats your fuel usage down and such and i never used them enough for real off road. so thats all bad , and think of it i should just use my winter tires all year until they go bald , but i kinda want those AT tires. and i thought so there are many AT tires with snowflake out there yes ? well wrong , there are only couple AT tires with real snowflake , not just M+S symbol on them and that they be on 17 rims and be 225/60 or 65 size. thats hard to find , some AT tires are just summer tires , some of them are M+S but that means nothing for snow , they just bad on snow, and some of those AT tires dont have that size that i need to be 225/65R17 tire or 60 . so in the end you just have couple options really. be agressive , cool looking AT tires , be snowflake tire and on right size not smaller and not bigger . found again some bfg ta ko2 tires in this size and some general grabbers AT2 or AT3 with snowflake. i cant find nothing else there really.

 

All the snowflake means is the tire passed an acceleration test in snow. It's not a true winter tire. They still wont turn or stop as well in the snow. I would recommend getting an aggressive all season, which many people do get on here. One is the Yokohama zoolander at g015. Then running true winters for winter driving. Unless you dont drive in snow all that often.

 

Replace the drivers side inboard CV boot on my 2009 OB Limited. I had to remove the whole axle. I seen some videos where it can be done in the car but it was not possible to get clearance. I use the Beck Arnley 103-3042 CV Joint Boot Kit.

Also tried to bleed the power steering pump. Last week I replace the o-ring on the inlet in hopes that it cure the cold start groan that appears inconsistently, except when I turn to at least one lock then it will groan all the time until I shut down.

 

Changed the rear wiper arm and blade. The old wiper blade wasn't clearing the window properly. I was only going to change the blade but got the arm included for a good price. The new arm spring holds the blade firmer on the glass so the overall effectiveness is much improved.

 

VDC works very well

as i had it with 2.5 115kw i allways thoughts it needs more power to work much better and now it has more power and yes it works much better , and maybe because this time its upgraded VTD too from previous gen VTD

 

Put a K&N filter in and back to blacked the trim

 

Friday the new spark plugs, boots and wires went into the 2.5-liter naturally-aspirated H4. Old ones were not too bad, fortunately for the engine. Very happy with the NGK parts.
It rained on my plans to clean the MAF sensor over the weekend. That’s in plan today.
Over the weekend I looked at how to disassemble and clean the EGR assembly so that’s on for this week some time.

 

Welp... My parts car is officially a parts car now. I was thiniking I might fix a couple things and sell it on as a runner, but after poaching the exhaust and discovering a power steering leak it looks like it'll get parked til spring and re-evaluated. Maybe by then I'll decide to put a ghetto lift on it with some A/T rubber and make it into a farm buggy. ;-)

Side note... I replaced the exhaust (catback) with the new-ish one from the donor. OMG I hate those stupid rubber hangers!!

Oh!! I also "fixed" the binding in the steering with a few squirts of Kroil. So I feel like I've saved enough money on those issues to get serious about the Whiteline swaybars someone is selling locally.

 

Having an amazingly difficult time stopping the squeaky spring mechanism on my clutch pedal! "Thick" silicone spray, no luck. Dry lubricant spray, no luck. White lithium grease spray, no luck. The squeak stops for a few minutes then starts back up again. The clutch seems to work fine, just squeaks at the extreme end when fully pressed down. Soooo, in normal around-town driving it is squeaking all the time. I am thinking of getting a good old-fashioned suspension joint grease, a nice thick greasy gel that will stay in the spring mechanism. Anyone have a suggestion on something that worked for you?

 

Dont those have a problem with cracking the firewall spot welds? I would look at those.

 

My timeframe is going to be a bit more than the thread title's "today", but in the past 2 months I have "refreshed" or installed:

• Front swaybar bushings and endlinks
• Rear swaybar bushings and endlinks
• Primitive Racing aluminum front skidplate and rear diff protector (I do communications for rallies)
• Rear diff drain and refill
• Rear wheel bearings
• Parking brake shoes and hardware
• Rear struts, spring seats, dust covers

I have the materials to drain & refill the AT (plus filter) and center diff for this coming weekend. Little service documentation available for the car, so I am going a bit overboard according to some folk's viewpoint -- but it makes me feel better, lol.

Notes:

• Worst part of job was separating backing plate from old wheel bearings; it required Kriol, heat and careful application of ball-peen hammer.
• Original "universal fit" strut shaft dust boots were too wide and would get caught by the spring compressor hooks. While I had to wait for delivery, the OEM covers were half the cost and would slide past compressor hooks.
• Per the FSM, the Subie scissors jack IS the perfect tool for aligning the suspension components while removing and installing the struts.

 

Prepped a new steering wheel to go into my 2005 2.5i.

This will give me audio controls for an aftermarket Sony head unit, and delete the cruise control stalk.

 

Prepped a new steering wheel to go into my 2005 2.5i.

This will give me audio controls for an aftermarket Sony head unit, and delete the cruise control stalk.
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You get that out of the black Outback in the Littleton U-Pull yard? I hope you somehow got the airbag because I believe it is a different shape from the one you have.

 

I ordered $188.00 worth of parts for Kurt. Oil pump seals, a new timing belt, valve cover gasket set, and various other items. The timing belt and other seals were replaced with head gasket 22K ago before I bought it, but I guess they didn't reseal the oil pump. If the T-belt isn't oil soaked I will probably reuse it and save this one for later. My engine has the 9mm oil pump based on the 9 stamped on it, I didn't see any reason to replace it.