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Old 11-10-2009, 05:50 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by chevrofreak
Standing on the driver side with a long board, I put it on the head of the bolt and pushed toward the passenger side. Hard. Very hard. Don't slip.

Just be sure you know exactly how it goes back on. I spent literally 3 hours trying to figure the belt routing out.
So i do go counter-clockwise? I thought that just loosened the pulley on the tensioner?
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Old 11-10-2009, 06:00 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by T4RBoarder


So i do go counter-clockwise? I thought that just loosened the pulley on the tensioner?
You just push straight into the side of the bolt head to compress the spring on the tensioner enough that you can slip the belt off. They really do use an exceptionally strong spring for the tensioner, so be careful.

I tried standing in front of the car and using the board as a lever against the bolt head, but all I managed to do is splinter the edge of the board.



Yes, the perspective on this is off.

Imagine the white rectangle is a board. Place it on the head of the bolt that holds the pulley on, and push on it to take tension off of the belt.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:00 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I'm at 120,000 miles now (30K miles in a year), gee, I feel like I should do them.

Like maybe this weekend.

Might have heard a bit of noise...

Maybe I'll try taping the belt to the other pulleys so I don't have to fuss with getting them back on.

Dave
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:13 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Yeah I'd do it dave. With the frequency they happen (someone at USMB just had it let loose on them) and how bad mine were when I did them for preventative maintenance it's time well spent. It was REALLY easy too by the way. Given your experience I think you'll knock it out in no time. Actually other than a couple pilot bearings I dont' think I had ever done a bearing before so I was a little hesitant but it ended up being a piece of cake. Bearing came out really easy.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:21 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by grossgary
Yeah I'd do it dave. With the frequency they happen (someone at USMB just had it let loose on them) and how bad mine were when I did them for preventative maintenance it's time well spent. It was REALLY easy too by the way. Given your experience I think you'll knock it out in no time. Actually other than a couple pilot bearings I dont' think I had ever done a bearing before so I was a little hesitant but it ended up being a piece of cake. Bearing came out really easy.
Nothing standing between me and new bearings but a big pile of lazy...

I was going to change my trans fluid this weekend, but this seems like a 'need'.


Dave
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:22 PM   #46 (permalink)
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yeah right on. i'm either on fire getting lots done or don't feel like touching anything automotive. can't find that in-between.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:49 PM   #47 (permalink)
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The non-tensioner idler on my wife's '06 Outback 3.0L had just started making noise. 59k miles on the car. Pulled it off and took out the dust seals. The small amount of grease still in it was all dried up. Cleaned it w/ brake cleaner and repacked with grease and it spun pretty smoothly.

I've now replaced one idler with new ($43) so that I had a spare to press in a 6203-2RSJ bearing from NAPA which was only $10. I used a few washers and a hydraulic press at work. BTW, the bearing from NAPA is made by SKF.

I almost think replacing both idler bearings should be on the 60k maintenance schedule.
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Old 03-03-2010, 03:00 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by procyon
The non-tensioner idler on my wife's '06 Outback 3.0L had just started making noise. 59k miles on the car. Pulled it off and took out the dust seals. The small amount of grease still in it was all dried up. Cleaned it w/ brake cleaner and repacked with grease and is spun pretty smoothly.

I've now replaced one idler with new ($43) so that I had a spare to press in a 6203-2RSJ bearing from NAPA which was only $10. I used a few washers and a hydraulic press at work. BTW, the bearing from NAPA is made by SKF.

I almost think replacing both idler bearings should be on the 60k maintenance schedule.
60K for the stockers, anyway.

Surprised to hear they are still shortlived in the '06.

Dave
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Old 03-03-2010, 03:11 PM   #49 (permalink)
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FYI, I pulled my pulleys last month and can confirm the bearing number. The rubber seals were marked NSK 6203DUL1.

Thanks to the guy(s) who mentioned the nut behind the tensioner pulley. It would suck to drop that nut and not realize it.

Spare pulley (Subaru p/n 23770AA020) was ready for quick swap if one of the bearings was bad. Turns out I didn't need it. But I noticed that the replacement pulley is different from the original:






The new pulley has no flange, and it looks like it will mount slightly farther forward than the old one.

I think I'll reuse that old pulley if/when I have to replace a bearing. Another good reason to buy just the bearings...


-Jeff
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:30 PM   #50 (permalink)
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The new idler that I purchased also looked like your new one (no flange). In fact, the original idlers on our '06 are the "new" stye. That flange has no relationship on mounting depth. The serpentine belt on our '06 ended up relatively centered on the idler.
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