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Looking at a 2nd Gen OB Tomorrow...

2K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  nworbetan 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I have been looking for an Outback for a while, and I think I may have finally found one. I am looking at it tomorrow. Is there anything I should look out for in particular? Am I capable of doing my own pre-purchase inspection? I am no expert but I feel as though I know a little more than the average bloke. What do you think?

Also, it is a 2003 with 164,000 on the clock. Head gaskets, timing belt, etc. all done. Does this sound like a wise buy? I am in college and looking for something more efficient, capable, more reliable, and less obnoxious than my dad's Buick Rendezvous (LOL) that I am currently driving. So, while I'm not SUPER poor, but I am in college and it would be ideal to not have too many things go wrong. I'm relatively handy with a wrench (and some good direction) so I know I can save a few bucks there. My question is this: do you think this is a good investment?

Thanks guys!
 
#2 ·
Ask for written proof that the head gaskets and timing belt were done. These cars are notorious for head gasket problems and some folks will tell you the work was done, or have it done half-assed to get over that problem when selling the car.

Also make sure it has four identical tires on it. Mismatched tires wreak havoc on the car's AWD system and can cause long term expensive damage. I've replaced a transmission because the previous owner drove for years with one mismatched tire.

Of course, there should be no check engine light. Look for signs of oil leakage around the valve covers because those gaskets tend to fail with age. If you are in the salt belt then rust is also a killer for these cars. Get on your hands and knees and look up into the wheel wells where the struts mount using your iPhone flashlight and be sure there is no rust there or anywhere else for that matter. A little rust on the rear suspension cross member is common and can be remediated. Post some pics if you get a chance.
 
#3 ·
#5 ·
First of all, there are more reliable cars out there. That's a fact. However, the two major things (HG and TB) have been done, and if they've been done correctly, that's a huge step in the right direction. Hopefully it includes mileage/maintenance records. Timing belt was due at 105k miles; depending on when it was done it may be due again in another 40k miles or so (210k miles). That's hardly a deal breaker.

It's a 2003 so the rear subframe rust issues of earlier 2nd gen Outbacks are not to be concerned with, so you're good there. Basically unless you buy a total rot-box, structurally compromising rust on these cars is rare.

That said, if you live where they salt the roads, there's a very good chance the quarter panels are starting to rust, and they rust from the inside out. A perfectly clean exterior may be hiding a lot of rust. Quarter rust on Subarus is hardly rare and it doesn't affect the operation of the car, but if you care about rust, I would open the hatch, remove the access panel on the left side panel piece (where the jack is), and shine a flashlight down towards the wheelwell/back of the quarter. If there is rust starting it will be glaringly apparent and you can count on approximately the same on the opposite side of the car.

As with any car, you simply don't know if it's going to burn oil (unless the seller is very honest), and that's something you want to watch carefully after your purchase. If it doesn't burn oil, great...if it does, make sure to keep it filled.

My first real car was a '03 Outback, which I still own (almost 5 years now). I did head gaskets and timing belt on it, and to date the only unexpected maintenance has been replacement of an axle and currently trouble with reading the OBD2 port. It burns about a quart of oil every 1500 miles, but has perfect 200psi compression in all cylinders @ 161,000 miles. If you can do minor repairs yourself, I would consider an Outback a good car, especially if the all-wheel-drive and cargo space would be useful for you. Whenever I'm on a backwoods rutted & potholed dirt road, I remember why I love my Outback so much. It's right at home.

If this information scares you, I don't mean it to. I'm just being honest. If you want the most reliable car you can buy with good MPG, an Outback is simply not it. But for what they are...wagon, full-time AWD, good ground clearance, I don't know what better options there are. In summation, if you need what an Outback offers, definitely buy an Outback. If you don't need these things, buy a Civic.
 
#8 ·
before you plunk your money down,...pay someone from a private garage that likes to work on subarus look at it for you. even experienced buyers do this,...there are a lot of little things to miss, and you might just be falling in love with a hunk of metal with a problem that someone that works on them regularly can spot.

and if I could I would head to california for cheaper prices.....you can read all about this kind of thing in the thread I linked. Jessa asked a whole lot of questions, ...and Washington state is even more expensive then Oregon it seems.
 
#11 ·
Check the front CV axles for tears in the boots, mainly the inner boot near the transmission, That can be about 400 each for a dealer to replace or about 200 a piece to buy each axle and do them yourself. Easier to replace the whole axle than change the boot. Check the right front especially. If they are torn there will be grease all over the bottom of the car unless its all dried up. Common Subaru problem but at that millage if they are still good then they have prob already been replaced. Check the steering rack boots also but those are easily replaced for about 50 bucks yourself.
 
#14 ·
Yep, >=5 years of functional transportation is exactly what I have in mind, so I won't worry too much about that. But if there's any way to slow down the rot, I'd do what I can.

What DavidPeab said about the struts though, that's something I actually don't know quite where to look for. Is it possible to see that with the car sitting on the ground? Can someone post a pic of what to look for?
 
#15 ·
Here's a thread about a similar problem with a 1st generation: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/124506-strut-tower-rust.html

It is too slushy and muddy here for me to lay under the car and take pics. But here is a post with a nice pic when you scroll down, showing the strut area. You'll see two pink spots on the spring. Use a camera phone with a flash to inspect that area up there. Any rust in the area shown in the pic is a walk away from the deal problem because these are uni-body cars and that area is essentially part of the frame. I don't remember but you may need to pry part of the plastic wheel well guard out of the way to see all of the area.
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...ar-strut-replacement-orientation-concern.html

So, exterior panel rust is an aesthetic problem, some suspension surface rust is normal and treatable, rust in the wheel wells and the body under the car makes it not worth buying the car.
 
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