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The BATTLWGN - my 2001 Subaru Outback wagon my repair, build, and mod thread

91K views 248 replies 37 participants last post by  mrbrefast 
#1 · (Edited)
Edit on 4/9/15: if you'd like to see my intended list of maintenance and modifications in one place, check out this post from later in this thread.

_________________________________________________

Hello there!

I am happy to be here on these forums, as I always enjoy a place to share photos and updates to projects I do - in this case, for the Outback I will be taking ownership off on Saturday. I have a beloved 1996 B4 Passat wagon, a turbodiesel (TDI), and I want to never again subject it to road salt in the harsh NE Ohio winters - so for that reason, and to have a light duty off-road capable vehicle for camping trips in all seasons, I am VERY excited to imminently become a Subaru owner!!!

A preview picture:



The basic story is: I will be scoring this from a friend for a cool $250, with 182,000 miles on it. A great service record going back across the two owners of it; there are a few known problems:

  • front brakes and rotors are beyond shot (easy - just replace)
  • the alarm system goes off any time you use the key to lock or unlock (some Google searches seem to tell me I can reset the security system using the driver's door lock/unlock button)
  • muffler is pretty far gone, louder than my Passat TDI diesel engine (replacement on its way)
  • a slight oil and coolant leak for ~25,000 miles I am told - I am guessing the head gaskets have slowly gone bad but no catastrophic failure yet (I will be redoing the gaskets and pretty much every o-ring and gaskets and so forth; the timing belt; and more)


Then of course, there are the fun things I want to do:

  • install the Baja roof basket from my Passat onto the BTTLWGN (helping it earn its Battle Wagon title):



There will be, I am sure, much more to come - this thread shall be my (re)build log, so I welcome comments and ideas!


-Mike
 
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#3 ·
$250 is easily less then scrap value.

"Battle Wagon" has been used and used and used.

_______

make sure you pay the machine shop to grind the heads. and use Multi-Layer-Steel gaskets, ...without any crap viton coating on them.

________

and most important today: get rid of that rusty shovel, dripping rusty dirty water on any vehicle is scandalous. (at least polish it up and hit it with some rustoleum paint,...or just get another).

______

If it is a factory alarm, read some stuff here, maybe more in the owners manual:
Subaru Keyless Entry, Security Alarm, Immobilizer Key, Remote Start Systems. Most years and models
 
#4 ·
  • the alarm system goes off any time you use the key to lock or unlock (some Google searches seem to tell me I can reset the security system using the driver's door lock/unlock button)
If you are locking the doors with the remote, and then try to use the key to unlock, this is normal behavior. There is a key switch sequence to make it shut up, but you should set the alarm to valet if you intend to mix remote and key use.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Admittedly, the bumper and window stickers are not exactly my style and will need to go… but the car is VERY much my style :D



The car was an incredibly good deal BECAUSE I am willing to have it be a project car with the attendant maintenance and elbow grease required (read on, below), and I am quite powerfully excited. Because it will be great to learn about this, but at the core of this choice are the following:
1) I now have an All Wheel Drive (AWD) and reliable vehicle to become my daily driver in the winter going forward, meaning my Passat will never encounter road salt (and thusly increased corrosion) again
2) I will be able to do the utility and towing projects with the Subaru, reducing all the extra wear-and-tear I was putting on the Passat by towing
3) I can do some (admittedly light-duty) off road camping trips now, without too many worries, using this car.


In other words, my beloved VW will be kept as pristine as it can, prolonging the huge fuel efficiency and reliability of it… while also having a reliable,off road-capable, and fun secondary driver!!!


SO. Earlier yesterday, I bought the car, got it retitled and registered, and did a prolonged test-drive (my friend’s word is far beyond reproach that the car does work but with some problems – but I did a 45 mile test drive across speeds, RPM ranges, inclines, and varying turns to see how it was).


The test drive actually went incredibly well (as the car sat for a full calendar year with a total of 100 miles driven, and yet started on the first try and did not misfire). That said, there are definitely “projects” to be had on this new project car of mine. For instance: the security system is stuck in Valet Mode, which disallows use of the key to lock/unlock without setting off the alarm… and didn’t come with the remote key fob (allows Valet Mode to be disabled). I have a replacement fob on order from here, with the understanding that this will let me turn this mode off now and be able to pick, going forward.


Next, obligatory “off-road” photo, the first of many (actual) off-road photos to eventually come, I should hope:



Car looks really great at distance and mostly up close, obviously with some exceptions. The gaskets on the frame of the car where the windows in the doors match up definitely leave a lot to be desired, the whistling gains a lot of intensity as speed picks up:





The engine bay is a bit dirty, but actually looks pretty good for a 2001 I think:





That said, this is a photo taken at night, underneath the engine, but the oil and coolant accumulated have had 25,000 miles to do so – and are honestly less of a mess than I expected:





The hood does have a few paint chips, but the car is unreasonably rust-free otherwise for a car in Ohio for multiple years:





The front headlights are plastic and will required refurbishing, as they have yellowed over time, and the fog lights will quite certainly be getting the yellow vinyl tinting treatment:





Interior is very clean, aside from the ubiquitous dog hair I will be vacuuming the **** out of (my friend and his wife have two dogs, and though they did no tear up the car… they left their hairy marks):






Definitely true that the replacement and/or add-on parts have begun to roll in – somehow, I don’t feel bad dropping $750 or so on parts when the car was only $250 (of those parts, replacement brakes and rotors for all 4 wheels in the boxes, and one of two matching flood lights I will mount rear-facing off the roof basket, for enhanced backing up visibility and also flood lights for camping set up or tear down at night)…





Known problems I do not have photos of, besides the above:
1) rear wiper arm and/or motor are bad
2) front wipers need lubrication or possibly replacement to properly actuate
3) the head gaskets will be replaced as they are likely bad
3b) I bought ~$500 worth of every sort of replacement seal, gasket, and o-ring… and filter… and more. Because if I am going to tear the engine apart to work on, I would prefer to do so once and be done with it for a LONG time to come
4) passenger side visor light is ripped apart and burned out, might need to replace rather than repair
5) the brakes on all wheels need replacing (the fronts sound AWFUL and are not terribly responsive under heavy braking; the rears are obviously low after testing the emergency brake at speed)

Updates to come over time :D
 
#9 ·
5) the brakes on all wheels need replacing (the fronts sound AWFUL and are not terribly responsive under heavy braking; the rears are obviously low after testing the emergency brake at speed)
The parking brake uses a drum brake contained within the rear brake rotors and is its own cable-actuated system. If your parking brake can hold the car on a steep hill without slipping back and without necessitating that you tank up the lever all the way (7-8 notches is what the FSM specs), then the brake is working properly. It is not meant to stop the car from speed; it is meant to hold the car at a stop. If you need to replace/adjust parking brake shoes, the proper adjustment procedure is to first adjust the shoes, then adjust cable tension as needed.

If you're going to do a full brake job, you'll have a chance to look at the parking brake shoes when you remove the rotor. If they have meat on them, I wouldn't touch them. They should last a very long time.

Another thing, make sure all your caliper slide pins slide smooth and are well greased with proper brake grease. Using the wrong grease will cause the rubber pieces on the pins to swell and seize. You may also remove the rubber pieces (not the dust boots, the ones actually on the slide pins) as they are not necessary. Seized slide pins are fairly common and are far and away the number one cause of stuck brakes. I don't mean to patronize, just fair warning.

On a side note, don't do too many e-brake/parking brake stops. It doesn't do good things for the center differential.
 
#7 ·
those sapphire blue ones look really nice in the sun.

you might get some of the stuff you need from local part outs or parts yards:
(like the rear wiper motor, and the window gaskets,...unless new is cheap?)

@tibug and others here have some part outs going in the classifieds here too.
 
#11 ·
2000-2004 legacy outbacks and low slung legacys

grey interior are not on many though

cars101 is usually quoted here, not perfect but almost. (scans from the original sales flyers / internet sights).

click on the 2000-2004 links on this page,...and then scroll down to the bottom to see the paint color and interior grid.

Subaru Outback research pages: 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009... all years/models

Subaru Legacy Research Information, all years and models, full specs, photos and more

you might get a console out of a 2002-2004 car so you get 2 cup holders there in addition to the wimpy "cell phone holder" one on the dash. (avoid putting much in that one, it likes to break or dump the contents of your cup on the radio. ) and rear seat cup holders behind the console are extremely rare intact. = one mild bump form a shoe will snap it loose. intact ones have probably never been used.
 
#15 ·
Look at Tirerack's tire tests for all-seasons. They understand that not everyone has the means to have two sets of tires and they will report on which all-seasons can ACTUALLY be considered all-seasons. One thing I have to say, is that if you're going to just have one set of tires, buy the best ones you can find. Thankfully, some of the best rated tires aren't awfully expensive, in my opinion. Take these: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...R6CP7ASP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

No personal experience, but clearly Tirerack and hundreds of consumers are exceedingly pleased with them.
 
#16 ·
those Pirellis have a similar tread to the Michellins I run for 3 seasons,...not enough tread to bite into 2" of wet snow and climb a grade,...but nice and on water and dry pavement. = and LLR does not make for great foul weather. Edit: and all seasons really suck in the 2nd winter season you try to use them.

around here the Toyota Prius have snows on them still. @tibug what you got on your vehicles? What do you drive on the worst days in central CT?
 
#23 · (Edited)
From a different thread:

To see if other OEM wheels from different car brands might fit, goto My Bolt Pattern and lookup the information on the rims to see if the offsets and bolt patterns match up. Usually teh center-bore doesn't match so you ned hub-centric rings for proper fitment. Goto 1010TIRES.COM and lookup the accessories section to see if a hubcentric ring is available to match the donar car's centerbore to the Subaru centerbore size. Without hubcentric rings, wheels will have vibration and potentially durablity and safety issues.


Please note that some wheels will physically fit, but won't actually work because not hubcentric rings are available. Please refer to:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...29520-any-one-every-try-tt-wheels-legacy.html
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...95-65-15-35-offest-03-outback.html#post283901

VW/Audi wheels won't work well at all even though they have the same 5x100 bolt pattern and similar centerbore.
So, my plans to pick up a $100 set of good wheels and decent tires tomorrow night, from some VW or other, will be potentially disastrous....

Edit: if this list is any indication, I SHOULD have plenty of options to make this potentially work...

Updates to come.
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
there might be a set of 4 rims similar to what you have in the parts yard or on craigslist right now.

per set: scratched would give $100,...cleanish $140.

craigslist today: you might find them worn out snows on them,...or snows that could make you happy another year. (but people don't want them as they want to trade the car or are moving to a warmer climate)....I paid $220 for a set of clean rims with decent used snows on them from a board member here. (he was selling his old car and the new Tribeca he bought did not take that size rim and tire).
 
#29 ·
A few small projects tonight.

The aforementioned wheels/tires are in my possession:



One tire is fair, the remaining 3 are good. The test fit was promising, and the replacement lug nuts (M12x1.25) I got at work are a perfect fit. The rims are scuffed, but will be getting Plastidip'd red over this weekend prior to installation as the 3 season wheels (their installation being a post-brake work job). Also, the new muffler came in the mail, as you can sort of see above.

Other new parts arrived as well... arrived in the sense that I bought them at work, because I love my job:



Ultrasonic parts cleaner to make the engine rebuild on this car easier (a clean fastener is a happy fastener) with some degreaser; and we (of course, being McMaster), have the M12x1.25 lug nuts needed for those new wheels!!

Finally, the replacement key fob arrived,



The car now locks and unlocks with the key and DOESN'T cause the alarm to go off, as the new fob allows me to turn off Valet Mode! These instructions were spot-on.

This weekend will be brake-tacular, between this car and my VW.
 
#30 ·
The basic projects of the day were: a full brake rebuild, and sexy red Plastidip'd wheels; so a preview shot before I walk you through the process:



The first step was grabbing those VW wheels earlier this week, which admittedly don't have stellar tires on them... but were $75 and mean I can now have a winter set and a non-winter set of tires + wheels on the Subaru. The wheels were cheap due to some definitely scratches and scuffs on them:



A thorough cleaning, hand-drying, and sun+wind drying later...



... I took some crappy magazines and painter's tape, and made some weird-ass Easter flower crafts out of the wheels:



I did 10 coats of Plastdip over the course of the day; in between that, I worked on replacing all the brake pads and rotors around the whole car; the parking brake pads looked good but I kept the replacement parts I ordered, as one of the parking brake pads looked like it was losing the adhesive of the pad onto the metal backing. So I got to hop between fume headache bonanza and swearing at a few rusty bolts (though most were really good):



I daresay the wheels turned out looking really good by themselves:



Non-ideal, but the new wheels are also 16" but with significantly (3" maybe) shorter ride height than the stock wheels:



This will eventually be fixed with the replacement tires I get when these crap out on me (likely next spring, they will be replaced). I daresay that it came out looking REALLY nice, especially since I left the wheel caps black:



Thoughts?
 
#31 ·
thoughts: you need to grow bigger feet.

which rims are you going to save for winter?

the red reminds me of something that belongs on a Impreza,...some people complain about keeping the plastidip clean vs. it flaking off.



if it don't work out maybe rip it all off and polish them down to bare metal and hit them with rustoleum. I just did a set of OEM subaru rims, = my ugliest set with gold paint. the pebbles from the snow banks had really scratched up the original clear coat awful,...but no gouges at all.




mine looks kind of like this one, "rustoleum hammered gold" is kind of dark.

I wish I picked a lighter shade of gold to match the lower body cladding maybe over the summer I will hit them again.

 
#33 ·
Did you perchance check those tires' circumferences before slapping the rolling stock on the car? If they are off by 1/4", you can start to hurt your AWD. Plan on a new set as soon as possible, and if you want the best results, rotate the new ones religiously.
 
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#34 ·
I really appreciate this. Let me revise my initial estimate of the tires down to: 2 are merely fair, 1 is south of fair, 1 is slightly north of bald. They are are pretty close to each other, certainly not a 1/4" difference between tallest and shortest. Honestly, I am more comfortable with the height differentials as compared to the pretty bad dry rot and sidewall cracking on the wheels that came with the car. That said - how often should I rotate these for the time being, just to play it safe? I will seek to buy one new set of tires at the end of this month, likely the all seasons.

Anyone have experience with R16 for all terrain tires of some sort? I am wondering if I want to do all terrains as my "winter tires" and also camping tires, then do all seasons for the non-winter.
 
#40 ·
I forgot to type about the studs.

sand gets into the stud holes, and the can only be put in a brand new tire.

either at the online retailers warehouse (tread depot, tire rack, tire discount direct)

or you local tire guy

....$15 per tire either way.
they are like 30 little BLUNT point carbide tacks that squeeze in with a air powered palm nailer. a one time cost of $60 vs. your life.

I'm sure there are some guys out there with short little carbide sheet metal screws stuck in a almost used up set of snow tires, but I have yet to see one and it maybe really easy to poke one all the way through a tire,...maybe on a hill blily rust bucket snow plow truck without plates,...they make such for ATV tires with the long long nubs.

here are typical road tire studs,...little end goes in the tire, and basically they are tight enough into the pre existing holes they don't come out.

 
#43 ·
Haha those would be sweet. Would need those + weight in the bed...**** thing has such bad axle wrap when you're trying to get out of a stuck situation. Mostly to do with the fact that both shocks are placed on the same side of the rear axle. Dodge changed that later.
 
#45 ·
I would not want something like that on a paved icy drive though as it may not bite down enough, and the tire would not contact the ice any letting the truck skate vs. have traction to move.

I have thought of alternatives to chains / cable chains though as here in NYS they do not let personal vehicles have chains of any kind on the road if plowing neighbors driveways. (although one might be able to argue if it were a tractor / ATV limping down the edge of the road)

you might like this one, summer or winter a nice bit of nylon rope might really come in handy if actually stuck out in places where one does not belong. when I have asked Colorado people they may own cable chains, but typically they just avoid and plan on not going anywhere at all if they needed them. = as one has to go so slow with them on.

I think this guy with the rope based tire chain alternative is in the rural North of Scotland. Have not tried it yet, but looks very promising, at least for those people already driving with a bunch of rope already in their vehicles.

 
#47 ·
About running those tires...

If you were forced to run them with the AWD on, you should put the two tallest and two shortest diagonally opposed on the car, with the absolute shortest in the rear. Since you are running with the FWD fuse in, swap the two tallest to the front, and run the shortest on the driver's side rear. Even in 2 wheel, FWD, you don't want the differential working its gears nearly 100% duty cycle. Same goes for the rears, but operating as a 'dead axle' will reduce the load. Still need to replace them ASAP.

Thank you tibug for clarifying about tire height (diameter) vs circumference. Aside from tire wear, inflation can cause such an effective difference.

The big problem with studded tires is that you will lose the studs over time, no matter how gently you drive the car. It gets worse if you reverse the rotation of the tire. I don't mean you shouldn't get them, but realize this will happen. I've learned how to preserve my studs as much as possible, and on my 3rd year with this set, this is the first year I've seen a significant loss of studs.
 
#48 ·
About running those tires...

If you were forced to run them with the AWD on, you should put the two tallest and two shortest diagonally opposed on the car, with the absolute shortest in the rear. Since you are running with the FWD fuse in, swap the two tallest to the front, and run the shortest on the driver's side rear. Even in 2 wheel, FWD, you don't want the differential working its gears nearly 100% duty cycle. Same goes for the rears, but operating as a 'dead axle' will reduce the load. Still need to replace them ASAP.
Thanks for this - I had mounted the tires anyways to have the two tallest and best tires on the front, and by chance the worst one ended up on the driver's side rear.

I just remembered this morning that I have a Costco coupon sitting around I wasn't doing anything with... and so I pleased to report they have Michelin Primacy's there, which I will be getting ~$100 cheaper with the coupon, as early as the end of this week. :grin2:

___________________________________

SEPARATELY:

My Thursday evening will involve removing the headlights to 1) more easily polish and wax the lenses back to clarity and 2) using a heatgun to apply clear vinyl coverings over them; and also 3) removing the fog lights to use the heat gun to apply a yellow vinyl coating over them and 4) re-aiming the fogs as they currently do a grand job of lighting IMMEDIATELY in front of the bumper... and little else.

I also need to work on the wipers... oy:
1) the rear wiper will actuate, go halfway and point 12 o'clock, and then buzz VERY loudly and not move further. Getting out and pushing it by hand will let it continue on its path and make it back to its starting point without again stopping at 12 o'clock. Is the motor or a gear bad, or maybe the arm wasn't used enough and it is partially seized? Any suggestions on what to do besides taking it apart and cleaning all portions of it?

2) the front wipers will both stop the second I click the wiper stalk off, and will change their intermittent speed on their own. Do I have an electrical problem(s) here, or are these normal behaviors?

3) any suggested wiper brands and sizes to replace all 3? I like Bosch on my VW, but perhaps there is some secret(s) to the Subaru way of life I do not yet know...?

Any advice on making any of the above happen would be appreciated.

As per usual: pics to follow :grin2:
 
#49 ·
Check the length on your rear wiper. Stock is 15", which is shorter than it can take, but someone may have 'gone for the gusto' and installed something as large as 18". A 17" might work, but a 16" definitely will and will clear significantly more area. The 'direct fit' seem to work best on the back in my experience. If your rear is stopping at 12 o'clock, the too long wiper might be why, just a guess.

As for the fronts, some wiper maker's books will tell you 22" or so left, 17" right, or something like that. Measure what you have, and go closer to 20" driver and 18" passenger.
 
#51 ·
To me the buzzing loudly and moving when he pushes it sounds like a damaged gear. I bet if you take it apart you'll find a missing tooth somewhere.
Yeah, I am afraid of just this - it will get taken apart and examined once I have some spare time (see below).

Check the length on your rear wiper. Stock is 15", which is shorter than it can take, but someone may have 'gone for the gusto' and installed something as large as 18". A 17" might work, but a 16" definitely will and will clear significantly more area. The 'direct fit' seem to work best on the back in my experience. If your rear is stopping at 12 o'clock, the too long wiper might be why, just a guess.

As for the fronts, some wiper maker's books will tell you 22" or so left, 17" right, or something like that. Measure what you have, and go closer to 20" driver and 18" passenger.
Appreciate this - I will do this in a few weeks... because this morning, when I started the car, I experienced the following:

1) really rough idling (jumping between 800 RPM and as high as 1500 RPM)
2) a shuddering or shaking as it sat and idled
3) as I began to go down the driveway, the Check Engine light flashed at me. It went out as I reversed and parked it (and swapped into my Passat).

So, the only change from yesterday's commute to this morning was a fuel-up at the cheaper fueling station in town last night. Does low quality fuel cause this sort of problem with Outbacks? Disclaimer: I am a diesel junkie through and through, so gasoline problems are baffling to me. :frown2:
 
#52 ·
#55 ·
TODAY: I finished glancing through every single Generation 2 Outback thread in this section of the forum, and reading those which seemed interesting and/or helpful to me! 179 pages of threads, and a lot learned over the past week during down time at work!! :grin2:
______________________________________

I drove the car last night as a test (equally humid and rainy as the morning), and there were neither codes nor a CEL.

I drove the car this morning to work, with no problems.

I got into the car to drive home from work... CEL and code P0303 - which calls out a Cylinder 3 misfire.

uneven idleing:
sounds like you may have a gummy throttle body.

see the latter posts by Peaty in this thread concerning Seafoam Spray. the earlier posts reference doing it with a baby bottle,...just ignore those.

pics are of H6 3.0 subaru engines,...but you get the idea.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...eafoam-h6-3-0-compiled-how-6.html#post1423698
I will definitely keep this in mind, though I would tend to think that the Marvel Mystery oil in both fuel and added to the oil would help with cleaning things out, no?

On a quick review of the thread, I didn't notice any mention of new wires or plugs - could be way overdue.
As per the above engine code, I suspect the spark plugs are the issue.

Funny you mention the need for maintenance: see the next post, which I meant to include earlier this week in my growing thread but I have not had the time until now!
 
#53 ·
On a quick review of the thread, I didn't notice any mention of new wires or plugs - could be way overdue. My car got a bit rough and angry at me one day like that, and upon thinking about it, I hadn't done plugs since I got the car. They were done not long before I got it, but I'd put 70k+ miles on since then. They were a bit uh, worn:
 
#54 ·
#56 ·
Intended maintenance and modification lists

Much obliged - I had started to compile my own list of these things from scanning through threads here on the forum, and mostly by considering "what all can I/should I replace while I do rebuilding work on the engine?"

Without further ado (and please, forgive the lengthy post), here are my two lists for this car: the planned maintenance and the planned mods, with any helpful links I have picked up along the way. I might try and keep this particular post up to date over time.

Maintenance

  1. brake rotors and brake pads replaced for all wheels (4/5/15)
  2. replace muffler which is presumed bad, with stainless steel replacement and do the exhaust gasket at the same time (have parts on hand, perhaps in 2 weekends)
  3. coolant flush and replacement with Subaru Long Life Coolant (parts en route)
  4. figure out if there is a cabin air filter in the car, and try my hand at replacing it with this as a guide (having rebuilt my entire Passat's interior, including removing the whole goddamned dashboard, this doesn't scare me)
  5. I want to put the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) onto a switch so I can decide if and when I want them activated... and not have to remove the dash to get them working again if/when I decide to do so. I will use this guide to turning them off to make this happen.
  6. figure out why/how the steering wheel is seized at its current height
  7. change out the front differential gear oil ASAP, per this guide
  8. change out the rear differential gear oil ASAP, with page 25 of this diagram as instructions
  9. (re)adjust front wiper arms and buy new blades, sizes 20" for driver's side and 18" for passenger
  10. fix and/or replace components to the rear wiper motor and arm, size 16" blade needed as replacement
  11. flush transmission fluid (and see modification #7 below!)
And of course, the BIG combo to functionally rebuild the engine, using the kits I got from Smart Service in WA:
Full head gasket rebuild Phase II kit, including:

  • valve cover gasket kit
  • front cam seals
  • front crank seal
  • rear main seal
  • timing belt
  • water pipe O-rings
  • intake manifold gaskets
  • exhaust manifold gaskets
  • oil fill neck O-ring
  • rear cylinder head plugs
  • thermostat kit
  • rear piston plug O-ring
  • oil filter and replacement crush washer
  • the water filter I ordered as add-on
and then their level 3 tune up package, including:

  • air filter
  • spark plugs (I believe these are the NGK plugs which have been called out earlier in my thread)
  • fuel filter
  • serpentine belts
This big rebuild will start, at the earliest, this coming Monday. The Passat's hard brake lines need to be fully replaced, and I need to finish soundproofing the doors and fix the windows... and then the rebuilding project I started in August will be done, and my daily driver will be set. And THEN the Subaru can be stripped and rebuilt with the above!!

So yeah... I definitely have my maintenance work cut out for me, by choice because for the mere $250 initial cost of the car and my love for my Passat (and desire to keep it away from salt), I want to ensure I have a rock solid reliable winter daily driver and camping vehicle for years to come. AND that doesn't even include the intended...


Modifications!

  1. refurbish headlights, clear vinyl covering + fog lights with yellow vinyl covering + upgraded headlight bulbs and fog bulbs.
  2. mount front-facing 34" LED light bar onto BajaRack Mule roof basket, to its own switch mounted into the center console
  3. mount rear facing LED flood lights onto rear of roof baskets, separate switch mounted into center console
  4. ** figure out how to remove the stock radio antenna (installed at an angle above the driver's seat) and use that hole in the roof as my entry point for the rooftop light power and control wiring into the car. This thread is all I have found thus far, any other ideas for how I can easily remove this antenna and use the hole, and gently pull wiring without screwing up the headliner (from what I read, this sounds like a tall order)... would be much appreciated **
  5. use Plastidip to do some sort of tasteful rally car'esque scheme on the car, details to come, see below and chime in if you'd like
  6. grab some 4 gauge wire from my job (McMaster-Carr) as well as the right sized terminals... to beef up the grounding in the car's electrical system, to try and get rid of the light dimming problem when I brake
  7. add a transmission cooler, per this thread, and likely use this highly-rated model to do so
  8. I will likely swap out the two rusted rear license plate lights in favor of a pair of 6" CCFL cold cathode lights, which I did on my Passat to get some AWESOME light off the rear which is a safely feature I much enjoy:

  9. along those lines, I will be installing a pair of these lights into the interior of the cargo area, and possibly even on the inside of the hatch to face down once open... all to make camping in the pitch dark less of a pain in the arse :grin2:
  10. If such a thing exists, I would like to modify an H6 engine cover to fit my car in order to ensure the engine stays cleaner and to make it a bit quieter when warming up
  11. I will be doing amateur radio licensing in the middle of May, and will grab the associated license plates soon thereafter. Perhaps following these examples, but more likely I will integrate the ham radio aerial whip onto the rooftop rack, I will somehow get the car set up for radio over long distances. Because I think that is awesome!
And of course, the most visible one: rally car styling. This was and is intended to be my winter daily driver + my camping vehicle... and it occurred to me that it sort will be a rally car ANYWAYS... so why not go for the whole look!

This was my first inclination, to have an opposed-facing pair of stripes vertically on the hood and then near the quarter panels:



Then, it occurred to me that might be a little too ~racecar~ for me, and I could achieve a similar outcome with something more simple and relegated to only-on-blue-body-parts look, maybe like this:



Finally, I found an actual Subaru Outback wagon... rally car, and I REALLY liked what I saw:



I will not do any stickers, but I DO have a 4" character size stencil set I will use to add different text to the car, including BTTLWGN on the rear bumper and perhaps in other places. But a scheme which was near the rearmost windows on the sides and which traveled to the front of the roof, down the windshield supports and onto the hood somehow... is sounding really cool to me. I am, however, not a rally car paint scheme decider by trade.

Any and all thoughts on this are appreciated! Being Plastidip... it will all be fully reversible :grin2:
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Updates to be posted here as summary, but also as new posts in this thread.

Any and all thoughts are welcome! :smile2:
 
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