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Battery flat, keys won't unlock doors. How do I open the hood from outside?

75K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  Sandbag 
#1 Ā·
Hi,
Thanks for a great forum, this is my first proper post.

I've been searching for a while, but I can't find find any info that fits my problem exactly, so here goes...

Here's the background/summary of how I got myself into this messy situation:
Yesterday evening I was going to go for a drive, and there was no reaction when pressing the unlock button on my key (combination key/fob).
I tried both keys, nothing, not from the lock button either.
I also tried the the mechanical locks, but they won't turn, and I dont want to overdo it and break the key and/or cylinder.
I replaced both fob batteries recently, and they had been working since then, so no issues there.

Looking again today in daylight, I can see that the overhead light button is pushed in on the drivers side (crap!).

So it seems that when I drove the car last, about a week an half ago, I must have left the driver side overhead light on. This means my battery is probably dead flat I assume.
We had some pretty cold days/nights the last week, so the battery may be completely dead from freezing.

My car has the security system, and I think this is why my keys wont unlock the doors?

Ok, so I started looking into how to open the doors in spite of this, but it looks pretty tricky to go in over the windows without breaking them. There's not much space, and there's a trim panel by the roof that makes the angle almost impossible, at least with a straight tool. Bending the window outwards to get a better angle seems very very risky.

Even if i could get a long rod between the window and roof, I'm not sure if flipping the lock switch by the handle would get me anywhere because of the security system?

So I'm thinking maybe getting the hood open and charging/replacing the battery might be a better idea. Is there any way to do that from the outside?

I had a look in the service manual, but it's hard to tell where the hood release cable actually runs in the engine compartment. (maybe I just haven't found the right diagram)

Any other options?
Maybe poking throught the gap between the door panel and glass to engage a lock lever or something?
Seems very tricky when you can't see what you're poking at...

Failing to pop the hood, I assume the next step would be to call a locksmith tomorrow or on monday. I'd like to avoid that if possible, but maybe it's not as expensive as i fear.

Any advice would be very much appreciated!

Ps. The drivers side door lock seems to have been replaced or has something stuck in it, can't get the key in more than about a centimeter. I've only had the car less than a year, so don't know the history there. If i get a locksmith, ruining that lock is not a big issue since it seems broken anyway.

Best regards
/Andreas
 
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#2 Ā·
If you spray inside the lock with penetrating oil and then try to use the key it may slowly start to turn with repeated attempts of spraying and keying the lock.

(probably just frozen up from lack of use and a little mild corrosion).

then you can get the hood open, and charge / jump the battery and get the security system to work.


_______

I don't know if such 2003 eurospec cars had immobilizer keys.
@lockmedic of Knoxville, TN, USA may have more ideas.
 
#4 Ā·
If the car is a wagon, is there a key slot in the tailgate to insert a key and unlock there? If so, you're in, crawl through and pop the bonnet using the release. Alarm probably has it's own battery, so may sound. Silence it using the remote fob.
 
#5 Ā·
I know lockmedic likes to recommend WD40 for spraying into the keyways, I guess particularly for its "water displacement" properties. and has recommended overly lubing and pushing the key in and out on such locks. (not in sexual manner,...I guess). but I don't know what lubes they sell in Sweden. (and I wonder if such a lock there today could be compounded by frost).
 
#6 Ā·
Have you tried heating the key with a lighter and then sticking it into the key hole? This was a common process for me back in Canada in the 1960's. A little bit of frozen moisture in the lock with melt right out with a heated key.
 
#7 Ā·
Thanks,
I'll try lubing the locks thoroughly tomorrow (late and dark here now).
It doesn't feel like mechanical binding, more like a dead stop,
but who knows how long it's been since anyone has used the lock cylinders, could be years and years.

It's not freezing cold anymore, so at least the locks are thawed, but they may well be rusted stuck or full of water.

I've got a can of WD-40 so I'll go with that first, thanks for the tip.
I also have some powder graphite to try.
If i get desperate maybe I'll try to stick a piece of metal in one of the locks and heat it with a torch, the expansion might help to get any rust a bit looser.
(Hmm, WD-40 + graphite + torch = fun? >:) )


Yes it's a wagon, but the tail gate lock is stuck too.
At least I have two locks to try, the driver side is probably a lost cause unless I can peep into it and get whatever is stuck there out.


If that fails, i might try to either jury rig a "slim jim" or coat hanger thing to poke around in the door.
Might also try reaching the hood lock from under the front.
Not sure if that's possible, but it's probably worth taking the plastic guard off underneath,
and have a look with a flashlight and telescope mirror.
I made a rod with a small hook that i might be able to reach with if i can see a lever or something.

PS. I think it has an immobilizer, but not sure. It has that security light indicator on the dash, that normally blinks when the car is locked (pretty sure it's not blinking now, but haven't checked for it).

edit: Haven't tried heating the key budha, you posted while I was typing, I'll try that as well.

/Andreas
 
#8 Ā·
NO GRAPHITE!!!!



Use a wet lube. Waaay more effective plus it doesn't turn to mud once it gets wet.

One thing at a time:

-The security system will absolutely positively never ever prevent you from using a mechanical key to mechanically lock or unlock your door.
-Nor will it prevent the inside mechanical control from doing the same (unless you own a BMW).
-Could be a corroded lock or a worn/miscut key. Can't say from where I'm sitting. Lube may help with that condition, if not, order a new key or hire someone to unlock it for you. Y'all gots locksmiths in Sweden. . . and some fine looking nordic women.
-The door can be manipulated open with specialized tools (locksmith). Or you can (if you dare) wedge the glass out and reach through the gap to operate the inside control. The door glass does roll up into the metal frame over the rubber weatherstripping and has to pop out of that in order to get a useful gap, and that's kind of scary so I generally don't do that. I use in-the-door tools to manipulate the linkage between the latch and inside control. . . but that's a little finicky too as the rod needs to move down and back to unlock, and it's angled in that direction.

Think that covers it. Lube and pretend you're having angry drunk sex with the lock with your key. After several insertions, attempt to turn the key. Results may vary if you try that technique on a woman.
 
#10 Ā·
Thanks for the pointer on graphite, makes sense that a dry lube won't work if it gets wet.
In Gothenburg it will get wet, we get more or less horizontal rain here sometimes.
Good to know that it's not the security system, then it's either corrosion or wear in the lock or worn/wrong keys (I've never tried them before obviously).

The graphite comment got me interested, so i googled a bit more, and i realize i have some other stuff that is more appropriate to degunk locks, carburetor cleaner and silicon spray might be useful. I'll start with WD-40 though.
Getting some breakfast now, then I'm going to work on those locks.

I probably should drive a Volvo, for local patriotic reasons at least.
But they don't come with flat sixes... Nothing beats a flat six to pick up fine nordic women ;)

/Andreas
 
#14 Ā·
... Nothing beats a flat six to pick up fine nordic women ;)
/Andreas
I might be taking this the wrong way...does that mean (6)12 ouncers lying on the floor empty? ....Flat Six.

And I would agree...the 65 Corvair got me a little sweetie right away. (Except little B is Irish, Polish, Slovak and Czech)
 

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#11 Ā·
Plan D! Smash the passenger side front window with a centre punch (tap each corner) unlock the car, charge the battery then drive to the wrecker and get a new window. Go around to a (handy with tools) mates house armed with a six pack of the finest Swedish beer. Drink the six pack whilst he puts the glass in. This is what us Aussies would do. Cause we like breaking stuff and drinking beer. Why the passenger side? Just in case it rains. You don't get wet, only the misses does!
 
#15 Ā·
Dunno why this is the only version of this advert I can find now:



We use brake parts cleaner to degunk locks. It doesn't have the nasty tendency to dissolve paint like carb cleaner can. Once they're clean we lube with stuff called P'Blaster. Maybe not the best. . .DEFINITELY not the best smelling, but it's readily available and works quite well for a variety of purposes. Subs well for WD40 in this flowchart:



Don't think I'd try to disassemble the hood latch through the grille. It's hard enough to get the cable unhooked when it's unbolted from the rad support and in your hand. . . of course if you could get it unbolted you could raise it up enough to manipulate the cable.

Heaps easier to just get the key working. Should have 3 exterior locks on that car, hopefully at least 1 of them still works. Doubtful the ignition was changed, they give very few problems. 90% of the time when the key doesn't work the door it's either corroded/gunked up locks or a worn out or poorly cut key.

A worn/poorly cut key will often work smooth in the ignition as the lock tends to wear to the key and you simply don't notice it. I've decoded and cut new keys to factory spec for many a customer whose complaint was the key only worked in the ignition, or ign. and driver's door. Once a new key is cut to spec, it works everything.
 
#12 Ā·
I'm wondering if the key for the doors is different than the lock?
Are you the original owner?
If the keys worked before, then they are likely just iced up. If you never used them before...
 
#13 Ā·
I was able to get into my Gen 2 with a five way painters tool and a 48" steel rule. But, I used the power door lock button.

Just went out and looked. It appears that there is a small steel security shield over the cable coming into the latch under hood. It might take a short socket with a universal and an extension, but it appears that the right side latch mount bolt can be removed and the shield should come with it. You might be able to get to the hood release cable once that is off. Get confirmation from others here since I am new and there may be issues with this method.

Of course if you can get one of the latch bolts off, and the other, getting the hood open should be very easy.>:)
 
#16 Ā·
Thank you all for the help!
WD-40 and some mild wiggling in the passenger lock did the trick! Too easy really.
After that, I used a jump start booster my dad lent me to get the engine running, and now all seems fine.
Took a long drive around the neighbourhood, and after that it started first time, no problem.
I also drove to my dad and back without issues (1,5+ hour roundtrip), so the battery should have at least a decent charge now.

The battery seems to take charge ok, but I'll yank it out and do a full charge indoors tomorrow (it's pouring down tonight).
Will also monitor it closely, in case it was damaged and might loose charge over time (I don't use the car daily, mostly on weekends).

I had a look at the hood lock, if anyone reads this to find an answer to the original question. Like OutbackILM said, there's a security shield covering the top of the cable. I didn't get a good look from underneath, but it looks like a difficult job at best. You can see the end of the cable inside the lock from the top when the hood is open, but I doubt you could get in there when it's closed. Possibly you could pop the grille out of the hood and get better access from the front, but even then, I'm not sure it would be worth the effort involved.

Getting to the inside door lock lever or going in inside the door with a slim jim or similar is likely much much easier.

By the way, I think I'm going to switch to LED cabin lights, and check that I've turned them off religously when I leave the car from now on. I will also start excersicing and maintaining the one lock that is still working, just in case i do something similarly stupid again...

The drivers side lock is still weird, but that will be a project for the spring, probably has half a key stuck in it.
I couldn't get the tail gate lock to move either, but I will work that some more and see how it goes. I can live without it though, now that the fob works.
Maybe someone switched the cylinder there (after a break in), the keys are just too worn, or it just takes a bit more to get it unstuck.

Thank's again!
/Andreas
 
#18 Ā·
You could have gotten power to the car to open a door by hooking a jumper cable to the positive post on the starter and to a suitable ground if the lock would have stayed frozen. Of course you would have needed to jack the car up.
 
#19 Ā·
Starter's pretty much on top of the motor and the steering shaft is in the way. I don't think I'd want to try and reach it from underneath without a much more compelling reason to do so than jump starting because I couldn't get the hood open.

Glad you got it sorted, Andreas. Now throw up some pics of Nordic women riding around in your flat 6 (har har).
 
#21 Ā·
Starter's pretty much on top of the motor and the steering shaft is in the way. I don't think I'd want to try and reach it from underneath without a much more compelling reason to do so than jump starting because I couldn't get the hood open.
My advice comes from someone that did this like 25 years ago on a Ford. I guess all things are not created equal. :(
 
#20 Ā·
more WD40 and time will probably get the other locks unstuck.

______

I am not pulling everything apart just to play around with LEDs. I replace important bulbs as they fail with long life versions of what has been in there for since 2001.....so those might last until 2030,...but the cars will probably rust in half by 2022.

________

I have left a door open on my cars. to empty the battery a few times.

...just putting it on a charger is enough to make a decent battery as good as new again.

______

and if a H6 subaru is such a attractant to hetero women,...I have to move to sweden.

.... the envy of lesbians in their 165hp Foresters loaded down with bulk dog and horse food.

 
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