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02 H6 intermittent starter issue.

12K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  Josh Sparrow 
#1 ·
So, the project Outback has a intermittent starting issue. Randomly I'll try to start it, insert the key and turn. Sometimes it starts like a top, no problems, others I'll hear the solenoid click but nothing else. Gauges and light come on, but no dimming like the starter is pulling power from the battery. If I keep trying it over and over it will eventually turn over like nothing is wrong.

I've replaced the battery cables due to a severe corrosion problem, tested the battery and alternator. Ensured terminals were clean and tight, rebuilt the solenoid and Tested the starter off the car.

By buddy at advanced suggested the starter switch and was thinking of replacing the relay if I can find the right one. Any ideas from those who understand electrical better then I do?


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#4 ·
If you hear the solenoid itself click, then the starting circuit (i.e., ignition switch, interlock relays, inhibitor switch etc.) is good.

It's like a light switch used to turn on a light. The switch could be bad, or the bulb could be bad. In either case the switch moves from off to on (click), but nothing else happens.

The starter solenoid is basically a switch that connects the heavy cable from the battery to the starter motor itself. If the solenoid clicks, but there's no starter action, and no effect at all on the car lights, it means that the solenoid hasn't actually made the connection between the cable and the starter motor, or the starter motor itself is failing. It's not unusual for the contacts in the solenoid to become corroded or worn and not connect, or connect intermittently, when the solenoid plunger moves (clicks). Also, it's not unusual for the starter brushes to wear, or the commutator in the motor to become contaminated, also leading to intermittent start up. Without good connections through the motor there's no, or insufficient, current flow, so the motor doesn't start.

The contacts in the solenoid might be replaceable -- I'm fairly sure there's YouTube videos on this. But it does require the starter assembly to be removed. The starter motor can be refurbished/rebuilt, however, it's probably better to install a new/rebuilt assembly.

Electrical tests can confirm the problem (whether it's the solenoid or the starter motor), but with the starter installed, access to the large solenoid and starter connections can be difficult.
 
#7 ·
Missed the solenoid rebuild -- my apology.

If the cable from the battery to the solenoid is new, and the solenoid is working, and, the ground cable from the starter mount area to the battery negative post is new/verified good, then the starter itself is the likely culprit.

If there's a bad brush or commutator contact in the starter motor, it often is intermittent. It could depend on exactly where the starter rotor stopped turning the last time it was used. With a bad contact, and the starter out, there could still be enough current through the motor to just move the rotor a bit and that gets things going. But when the starter is installed, as soon as the solenoid activates, the starter is connected to the stopped engine. Getting it to start turning takes a lot(!) of current, and with a poor contact, the current won't reach it. The starter doesn't turn, but the low current through it doesn't affect the car lighting or load down the battery a lot.

Sometimes, if when the key is at Start, the starter doesn't run, giving it a tap causes the rotor to move slightly and that gets it going. But that necessitates having the hood up, and two people, one to hold the key at start, the other to tap the starter (if it's even accessible that way from the engine compartment).

These are just some, relatively common, ideas, but, there could always be other possibilities.
 
#9 ·
if by "starter switch" you mean the ignition switch on the steering column, then, yes. The ignition switch, inhibitor switch, security lockout relay, etc, are in the circuit that powers the starter solenoid electromagnet. When power is applied, the solenoid plunger moves, pushing a cone shaped contact at it's end against the two internal contacts of the solenoid to close the main circuit from the battery to the starter motor. The strong click when the ignition switch is turned to Start confirms that the plunger has moved, and if it stays there (no more clicking) as long as the ignition switch remains in the Start position, the circuit powering the electromagnet is good.

As you rebuilt the solenoid, which I presume includes replacing the cone and two contact, as well as cleaning and lubricating the moving parts, and, of course, reassembled it correctly, it's hard to continue suspecting it, at least for now.

The history (including work that has been done), and the continuing symptoms, therefore point to the starter as possibly being the cause -- there isn't much else.

There is certainly an option to just replace it and see what happens, and if you choose that, fine. But, it might be nice to have more evidence that it is the starter. One way that could help is the tapping approach mentioned earlier, but, granted, it requires the system to be in a failed mode at the time. There are also some electrical tests that can be done (current, voltage), but again they are only helpful when the system isn't working properly.

That said, if each time the starter doesn't work it takes multiple tries before it does work, there's a window for both the tap and electrical measurements if the tools, and help, are handy. I don't know if this is something that is practical for you.

There are still some shops that specialize in starter repairs. If there's one in your area, ask about the cost for them to examine/test the starter. (If you rebuilt the solenoid, I presume you can remove the starter assembly and bring it in.) It might be worthwhile, dollar-wise, to have them check it, and if it's something simple such as the brushes, replace them.
 
#10 ·
disclaimer - plainOM is 10x the electrical wizard I am. His advice should be leaned on more than mine.

I would focus on the starter. they are generally long lived but have common wear items in them.

Often times just cleaning an electrical motor of it's internal debris/dust (from brushes wearing) build up alleviates issues. Though often it's temporary as the build up/dust was just exacerbating an already degrading part.

Standard electric motor maintenance is - new bearings, brushes, and cleaning. I have no clue how many electrical motors I've repaired in that way. Not sure how common that is on a Subaru Outback starter but you could google it or look for an auto-electrical shop as he said.
 
#14 ·
you got the page, (page 4, although some maybe oriented to latest posts first, ...which would be backwards of the regular format).

but if you go to post 31 and look to the right you click on "permalink" and then copy the new title from the browser at the top of your screen


this sends the next person clicking directly to post 31 of the thread.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...yed-start-intermittent-cel-2.html#post1596553
 
#15 ·
We'll update on the issue. Just installed the new starter and so far no issues at all. I guess I'll find out for sure in a couple of days if it's gone for sure. Now just to find a local guy to rebuild the old one just in case


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#18 ·
Hi Josh, It looks like you may have the problem solved. However, if it happens again in similar fashion check the ground strap at where it is attached to the block. I had a Ford Ranger on which I replace three starters after having similar symptoms to yours. Then someone asked if I had checked and cleaned the ground connection. Once I did that I had no more issues.
 
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