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Old 11-05-2012, 02:47 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Thanks Brucey. I was about to open class and give full definitions and pics with pointers, graphs, etc.. Would have been a long one. Even thought about doing a video tour with full explainations. May still do that. Saving space. Moving onward.

I have a "parts list" posted at • View topic - CarDoc - 2001 Subaru Outback 3.0R 4EAT - SuperCharged Tuning

It's Ed's XRT Forum Pages. He has it title as a 3.0R but the R wasn't initiated until the 2004 build. It has a lot of the pricing. After recalculating cost sheets, I can round it down to approximately $5500 in cost for all the add on parts and Ed's programming. No labor included, it was done at the shop I work in. All the other cost is prior to the installation and was done to get the vehicle up to par which I do with any car I buy whether to keep it or sell it, or in a couple cases, gave away. The total man hours involved was probably close to 30 hours with the engine compartment mods and custom metal work. I could get it completed faster now. Not as much brainstorming involved, i.e. injectors, ABS, radiator placements and pumps.

This Friday, again, we are going to the track for another shot at times/speed. Get that sucker dialed in. So far, every day since correcting the crankcase pressure issue, its not missed a lick.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:00 PM   #182 (permalink)
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It has been suggested that I should try to fully explain the workings of the system so no one is confused. Everything can be easily verified through legitimate sources. Its basically math and science, but you don't need to know the math formulas to understand how it operates.

With the increase of air available to the combustion chambers, you have to add fuel to keep it at a 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio, otherwise referred to as stoichiometric equation. This equation is for gasoline, and can work with E85 or other alcohol blended fuels if you use it for a baseline without boost. Under boost, the lower the equation of air to fuel, or rich condition, the better. Primarily, alcohol engines run 9:1. This is one reason if you run E85 the usage table increases because it takes more alcohol to get the same combustion rate as gasoline and the computer increases fuel flow to the combustion chamber to reach 14.7:1 average. The advantage of alcohol is the power output and the lack of HC's on exit of the engine.

Since the engine likes going faster, I installed not only larger fuel injectors but also a higher flow fuel pump to make up for the amount of fuel necessary to keep the power band going up as engine speed increases, keeping as close to a 11:1 mix as possible. More fuel, more power. And the fuel has to match the air coming in or you lose power. Same with the air flow, if you have too much fuel and not enough air, you get a power loss due to "flooding". As long as the fuel trim, or air to fuel ratio remains under 15.5:1 and the temperature is controlled, you won't get severe detonation. Especially with high octane fuels or highly combustibles like alcohol.

Timing is also a factor. The timing of the ignition from the spark plug needs to coincide with the compression of the air and fuel in such a way that it doesn't detonate, or explode, but burns. The burn is what is necessary to move the pistons and gain the torque necessary to create the power output. Timing on this engine under boosted power is about 15-17 BTDC (before top dead center) and the computer compensates based on the knock sensor input as well as the AF sensor calculations combined with injector latency, temperature, air flow and volume. On the old school cars, we had to adjust everything based on weather, barometric pressure, fuel octane used, type of fuel used, NA or Blown and carburetor ability and jetting. Now the computer does it and super fast.

On to parts:

Transmission: 3. : an assembly of parts including the speed-changing gears and the propeller shaft by which the power is transmitted from an engine to a live axle; also : the speed-changing gears in such an assembly

This does not necessarily mean a transmission in a vehicle. The Webster's is lacking in this point. It is any combination of speed changing gears and/or clutches operated between an input shaft and output shaft to manage an alteration in torque output, which in the case of the SC is the smaller gear, larger gear and centrifugal clutch built within and connected via the drive belt and obtains torque change through a change in gear ratio between the input and output shafts both by utilizing different size gears and the centrifugal clutch mechanism. A multigear bicycle has a transmission of sorts. Gear(s) on the pedal assembly connected to a series of gears on the wheel by a chain that changes the torque output of the input set of gears and the ratio is changed by operation of the shifter to move the chain from one gear to another.

The Bypass Valve or BOV is adjusted by turning the adjustment screw in for a tighter release or out for a softer or quick release. The adjustment on the Bypass Valve can be anywhere between full open and full closed. The adjustment of the BOV prevents any "stalling" of the compressor of the SC as well as release unnecessary and unused pressure.

The second pressure gauge was connected to the intake tube before the BOV to get the adjustment of the valve to keep intake tube pressure below 1 psi max whether the SC was engaged full on or not. Primarily, a reading of "0" is desired. A Supercharger does not have a wastegate since it is not powered by exhaust and relies on proper adjustment of the BOV to control pressure in the intake tube assembly that would back up against the compressor of the SC with the throttle plate closed or partially open creating heat if it was not adjusted properly. The intake tube never sees a vacuum since the SC is always moving air towards the throttle plate. When vacuum is present on the engine side, or intake manifold, the BOV is open to release the air from the intake tube. As vacuum decreases, the BOV approaches closed or closes depending on the setting I have it at and allows the air being fed from the SC to enter the intake manifold. Therefore, again, the second gauge will only show the pressure on the intake tube, not the engine's intake manifold. The manifold pressure is gauged by a separate system and gauge which operates via a separate MAP sensor that is attached to the intake manifold proper via the same vacuum hose that feeds to the BOV.

Centrifugal: technical : moving away from a center : acting in a direction away from a center

Clutch
: to grasp or hold with or as if with the hand or claws usually strongly, tightly, or suddenly

Therefore: Centrifugal Clutch: To grab or hold strongly, tightly, or suddenly by moving away from a center. In this case, as the shaft speed increases the clutch is forced out to grab the outer race of the clutch assembly turning the compressor faster than it normally would in a "free spin". This is also the replacement, in a sense, for the wastegate used on turbos. The clutch disengages when the centrifugal force is no longer there, i.e. off throttle and engine rpm reduces, which slows the compressor down more than it would if a clutch was not present, also helping to regulate pressure that may build up against it and prevent "stalling". Its like a combination safety. The BOV opens to release the pressure and the clutch disengages to slow the compressor speed. Right back on the throttle and the BOV closes, the clutch engages by centrifugal force and boost is back up with the speed of the engine.

Lubrication: There is none. All the bearings within the SC are ceramic and do not require lubrication. The SC is liquid cooled to keep heat transferred away from the clutch assembly and transmission, but is cooled from without the interior case. The internal parts of the SC run dry.

I hope this assist anyone that may have needed further explanation. If you have any questions, just ask the DOC.
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:36 PM   #183 (permalink)
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I got my transmission mount replaced. Gravy job.

Had more movement though. Started checking and found the Differential/crossmember bushings broke. I took a video, but then found this one to represent what its doing.


Too much torque. The search is on for Poly. Unless someone else knows where to get some and could let me know.
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:44 PM   #184 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardoc View Post
I got my transmission mount replaced. Gravy job.

Had more movement though. Started checking and found the Differential/crossmember bushings broke. I took a video, but then found this one to represent what its doing.

Worn out differential bushings 2001 Subaru Outback - YouTube

Too much torque. The search is on for Poly. Unless someone else knows where to get some and could let me know.
if you can't find car-specific 'kit' for the diff (kartboy, Whiteline, Torque Solutions, etc.) - prothane has a big catalog of dimensional parts if you can get some numbers.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:27 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardoc View Post
I got my transmission mount replaced. Gravy job.

Had more movement though. Started checking and found the Differential/crossmember bushings broke. I took a video, but then found this one to represent what its doing.

Worn out differential bushings 2001 Subaru Outback - YouTube

Too much torque. The search is on for Poly. Unless someone else knows where to get some and could let me know.
Whiteline makes direct replacements for the rear upper mounts and diff crossmember bushings. Unless you want to drop the cradle and press the old and new bushings for the upper mounts; I suggest getting the inserts for the '08+ WRX. They will fit in the factory bushings with a little trimming. The diff crossmember direct fit bushings are easy.

My diff no longer bangs around, but be advised that once you stop the diff from moving, everything else that is loose will be amplified.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:32 PM   #186 (permalink)
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I know that nolaphane here in oz do a support bush that goes in the voids top and bottom to take up the slop, could use them as a temporary measure until you get to drop the rear subframe and install new poly bushes, do a search on my posts I published the PN in one of my posts on the subject, Im sure that also do a full poly bush as a replacement as well.

I've had the support bushes in for almost a year and they're still working well.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:45 PM   #187 (permalink)
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is this the 'helper' inserts?

Whiteline rear diff. bushing inserts - Subaru Legacy Forums
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:32 PM   #188 (permalink)
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He's referring to the full poly insert. I found 3 companies in SoCal that carry the SFK bushings. I couldn't find a place on their sites to order online.

I got a pair coming from Subaru that will be delivered to me at the shop on Thursday. I'll try to order from the manufacturer in OZ. They had a direct fit number for the VDC and my year. It's my best bet as the American supplier will most likely not have it. It's a different number from the WRX.

That banging is really annoying with all the torque hitting it.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:45 AM   #189 (permalink)
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He's referring to the full poly insert. I found 3 companies in SoCal that carry the SFK bushings. I couldn't find a place on their sites to order online.

I got a pair coming from Subaru that will be delivered to me at the shop on Thursday. I'll try to order from the manufacturer in OZ. They had a direct fit number for the VDC and my year. It's my best bet as the American supplier will most likely not have it. It's a different number from the WRX.

That banging is really annoying with all the torque hitting it.

As cmill1154 posted above the Whiteline rear diff insert kit for the 08+ WRX/STI seems to fit pretty well.

The bushings for the mustache bar on the diff require a bit of trimming (they have 2 extra void filling branches (test fitted on a spare mustache bar)), but the rear diff inserts shown on the video are pretty much push-in (same shape visually) - Only problem is if your bushings lok like the ones in the video there is no bushing left to fit the inserts into,

I have a set of these in the back seat of my '03 Legacy L-SE Wagon but was holding off on the install until I do my LSD rear diff conversion - this way things go on the car once.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:52 AM   #190 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Lucky Texan View Post
Those are the bushings I'm reffering to (the design has changed slightly but they are basically the same bushings).

Note: the 08 WRX / STI kit also comes with a pair of bushings for the "mustache bar" - 4 inserts in total
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