[Red Suburu]

@traildogck and @Brucey I guess what surprised me was I wouldn't of though a 3.0 would need that much help to do what the 3.6's do! Were they really that slow to start with? I'm not a Subie history buff so I don't know!

Edit to add I'm sure a 4th generation has just a few more pounds to haul also!

 

[traildogck]

@traildogck and @Brucey I guess what surprised me was I wouldn't of though a 3.0 would need that much help to do what the 3.6's do! Were they really that slow to start with? I'm not a Subie history buff so I don't know!

Edit to add I'm sure a 4th generation has just a few more pounds to haul also!

The 1st Generation 3.0 didn't have much left in at far as gains. You put an SC or a turbo on the second generation 3.0, 2005-2009 and it will make a stock 3.6R look silly.

This is NOT a DBW (drive by wire) car, meaning mechanical throttle body. 2005 on up, it's all 000s and 111s. There is much more that can be manipulated ECU wise. Meaning tuning. Trying to get a 4cylinder WRX ecu to run a 6 cylinder car is a feat in itself.

Sometimes it not only the passion for the work. It's the limits of the of the canvas you have. You proceed to paint the best work you can.

 

[cardoc]

It's really simple. Read the post from the Hyper Link in my signature, post #411. When we started, the car put out 187 AWHP. Now its at 300ish AWHP, which with the automatic stealing torque and power, relates to between 425 and 450 crank HP (calculating a 30-35% loss through the power range when the torque converter is not locked). It's not a variable cam engine. It is a MAP, or speed density, tuned engine. It retains all the VDC capabilities and it will drift with VDC off when I want it to. It's different. Its not blown the engine or melted pistons as people believed it would at the beginning. We made strides in being able to process/tune the ECU on this generation Outback which also helped in other areas besides adding performance. It's also one of a kind. When people like me get an idea in their heads to do something like this, its not all about increasing 0-60, which it did because prior it was in the 10-12 sec range. It's about doing things believed impossible and getting it completed with success. And I do look at this car as a success. Its only one of many talked about as "why?". Just because, that's why. And I could.

 

[cardoc]

ABS Fault Codes 34 & 41

I'm all for educating people, so here's a tidbit on an issue with the car this week.

Wednesday, I made a trip to the fabric store to get some elastic to repair a 350Z convertible top that was inoperable. Yes, elastic. 1 yard, but I didn't use it all. Top works again. On the way, the ABS and VDC lights come on. Interesting. No sign of issues with the VDC or ABS. The car is, as of this morning, at 208,365 miles on the odometer. Its the original speed sensors and ABSHU, so I think, maybe something finally died, or maybe a reluctor ring on a bearing. Time to get another one, of whatever it is, and lay the OE to rest. (exception for OE is the left front wheel bearing)

No.

Shut down at Michael's and on restart, no lights. Typical. Drove 100 feet, lights. When I got back to the lot I jumped the diagnostic connector, pin 6, to flash the ABS light and get the code(s). Only one. 34, front left outlet valve. Well 2 if you count the 11 that's always there to show the beginning of the code output. I put it on the back burner. Who needs ABS and traction anyway, right? >

Thursday evening, it took longer for the lights to come on and I thought that interesting. So when I got in my garage at home, I jump it again. 34, stays in the module until its cleared even after a repair, but since I didn't do anything yet, I figure the issue still exist, and 41, abnormal ABS control module. Now we're getting somewhere! This is good, because 2 codes that may lead to a sign of failure in the ABSHU, showing up within a couple days, and only a few miles of each other between ignition start/stops is NOT a sign of module failure.

Who sees where I'm going with this? Traildogck? I'm sure you do as much as you've been reminded of it.

Power and grounds. I've attached diagrams so you can follow along here.

I check the fuses - SBF 7 is the 50A under the hood. Good. Interior box 6, 8, 16 and 18 are battery to the ABS and VDC modules. Good. Move to the battery and grounds.

I have 805A at the battery. 780A at the body next to the battery. 790 at the AC and Alt where I have an extra 4 ga cable for ground. 795 at the harness lugs on the front of the intake at cyl 1 runner. 765A at the ground strap by cyl 3 runner. This strap goes to the ABSHU. At the ABSHU, 640A. Hello. Check the firewall grounds while I'm under the hood and they are all around 760-790 range.

I removed the wire from the ABSHU and found the lug clamp was loose. I made and installed a new 14 ga wire from the intake to the ABSHU. Went ahead and checked other grounds that are limp between connections and made sure none of those worked loose. They were good, just scuffed them up a bit.

Interesting to note here: As you can see in the ground distribution diagram, the grounds are all connected in one way or another, but the harness ground for The ABSHU is connected to a couple other areas I have been experiencing issues with. The keyless entry has been acting stupid lately. I have to be next to the car for it to work, sometimes it would not work until the 3rd or 4th push of the button. The lights flash, or not, on arming or disarming. I had figured a low battery in the fob or the fob itself as the culprit. A couple times the power mirror would take too long to move when I push the button. I had attributed this to wear in the switch or mirror motor. Remember, all the parts on this car are factory parts with exception to the modifications I've done and the JDM engine, so I was thinking, okay, the miles are showing. That's not the case. The grounding was the issue. That one ground strap, and maybe a couple others that I had checked/cleaned all contributed and was causing the ABS errors. The lights have not come on since I worked on the grounds yesterday morning. I am driving with the VDC active and no issues so far, even when I get on it. The keyless entry works from at least 50 feet away now. I haven't checked the mirror, I don't move it much anyway, but I will assume that it's back to normal also.

So before you lay to rest any electrical part or module on the car, whether a Subaru or Nissan or BMW, any car, check your power and grounding first. Repair or modify as needed and then recheck the "failed" :wink2: part.

 

[traildogck]

So before you lay to rest any electrical part or module on the car, whether a Subaru or Nissan or BMW, any car, check your power and grounding first. Repair or modify as needed and then recheck the "failed" :wink2: part.

I believe "check your grounds" is burned into my brain. Your many pots over the years are responsible for that. Power and grounds are step one to any electrical diagnosis.

Repeat testing of the suspected "failed part" is also very good practice.

 

[sturgissteele]

Excellent advice! I'm now experiencing the key fob problem for the last couple of weeks. But I'm quick to blame the battery. But haven't had any other issues as of yet. But may as well check those grounds again. Thanks for the heads-up!

 

[cardoc]

Update: About 100 miles since the ground work and still no issues with the ABS or VDC. I'd say its a done deal.

 

[cardoc]

So the little F-ing deer I hit did do a little damage. It cracked my fiberglass grille. Still no fur anywhere. So this being a JDM D-type hood its not like I can call up or visit the salvage yard, or even Subaru parts. But I did search ebay for a replacement and I'd say it looks pretty good. This one is plastic instead of fiberglass, but its still light.

If anyone needs a Pleiades oval that measures 10 x 5 cm, I have the one from the cracked grille and can send it to you. Just PM me.

 

[SamuraiTowel]

Ah man, sorry about the wildlife! She looks great, those JDM HIDs are sexy as ****. Did you get your hood from Japan or a local source?

 

[cardoc]

Ah man, sorry about the wildlife! She looks great, those JDM HIDs are sexy as ****. Did you get your hood from Japan or a local source?

The lights were JDM D-Type self leveling HIDs originally. I removed the motor and lights, reconstructed them to hold the projectors, blacked out the bowl and took out the DRL bulb. I also disconnected the DRL module to keep the headlights from flickering due to the lower voltage feed for DRL. In the photo the projector lenses are reflecting the light in the shop and the camera picked it up, they're not on.

The hood came from an importer in Canada that got it from Japan. It reportedly came off a 2000 JDM LGT. If I recall it was a $400.00 purchase with shipping. Its extremely light. Lift it with one finger.

 

[SamuraiTowel]

Sweet, thanks for the info. That seems like a steal, Ill keep an eye out for something like that. That'd be a great way to reduce weight and add a little flair at the same time.

 

[traildogck]

The hood came from an importer in Canada that got it from Japan. It reportedly came off a 2000 JDM LGT. If I recall it was a $400.00 purchase with shipping. Its extremely light. Lift it with one finger.

Scooped hoods are aluminum vs steel. Having only only owned XTs of late...I get spoiled. Steel hoods are hefty.

Sorry about the wildlife...s*cks. I have had 1 Subaru GL turbo and 1 Renault Fuego Turbo taken out by a Pennsylvania whitetail. But not for many, many years.

 

[cardoc]

Sorry about the wildlife...s*cks. I have had 1 Subaru GL turbo and 1 Renault Fuego Turbo taken out by a Pennsylvania whitetail. But not for many, many years.

It was a little white tail, probably not more than 50 pounds. It slid on the asphalt for about 20 feet after bouncing off my bumper then rolled up and ran off after the first one that got by me. The area is a residential and business combination on a 5 lane. I've seen plenty of deer early mornings when I've been over that way, so I always watch for 'em and take it slow. These 2 though, slick little bastards, popped out on to the road like they were running from a predator. The 2nd one was just too slow. At least I didn't have to call the game warden for removal of a carcass, or have to replace a front clip.

 

[cardoc]

Finally >

 

[SamuraiTowel]

*drools* So clean! This is exactly what I'm going for, thanks for the inspiration!

 

[cardoc]

I wasn't expecting the diffuser with the bumper. The paint guy did a great job on the color match. :29: I had to splice in the plugs for H3 bulbs in the fogs, but that was easy. The most difficult was cutting the additional metal from the bumper that's added to USDM cars so the BH would fit with the larger air dam. Every thing else matched up perfect.

 

[SamuraiTowel]

Nice! Good to know only minor modifications required for the JDM parts. It's a shame there's not a whole lot in the way of alternate body kits for these, not that I've seen. Not without going custom made.

Have you rolled your fenders yet or did you decide to get smaller wheels? I'm curious whether the plastic trim/bumber gave you any trouble with that.

 

[scalman]

I see nice line to cut it. Haha joking, no seriously it looks ok but its for everyone taste.

 

[cardoc]

I see nice line to cut it. Haha joking, no seriously it looks ok but its for everyone taste.

:surprise:

NO CUTTING

Besides, its too low for off road.

As for the tire size and the fenders, no rolling yet. What I think is an issue is the struts can't handle the weight. The Legacy struts aren't heavy enough for the front. I may look in to putting in adjustable front struts, or all four. Tein, HKS or Koni.

 

[WantAnOutback]

Hi Cardoc,
How do you get the cover plate off of the SC? There is a tapered washer thing below the woodruff key that seems like it may be holding it on, not sure. Is there a gasket of some sort on the case after you remove the allen keys also? I am pretty sure I broke the SC belt.... no more resistance on the SC pulley and no more SC whine. Scared the heck out of me when it stopped... . I thought I had a catastrophic failure but then remembered it is belt driven!!! Is the new belt going to just slide right on?