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11-05-2012, 04:36 PM
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#21 (permalink) |
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Costs
Basic rebuild cost$1,605.51
Basic machine shop work$260.00 Basic replacement parts$1,256.51 Special tools needed$89.00 Rebuild with upgrades$1,802.55 Upgrades$197.04 Total rebuild with upgrades and performance mods$2,358.54 Performance modifications$555.99 Basic Machine Shop Work$260.00 block vat$30.00head vat$30.00 0.020" overbore$125.00 0.010"/0.0110" crank machining$75.00 Basic Replacement parts$1,256.51 Clutch kit (see upgrades)$96.95 Oil pump (see upgrades)$85.00 3 stock rods (see upgrades)$234.00 Timing kit$149.56 one fuel injector (broken accidently)$65.00 Rebuild gasket kit (includes timing kit)$540.00 8 intake/8 exhaust valves$86.00 Upgrades to necessary parts$197.04 Stage 1 clutch kit upgrade delta cost$21.05 11mm oil pump upgrade delta cost$80.00 Eagle H-Beam rods delta cost$95.99 Performance modifications$555.99 UEL header$138.99 Fidanza 12.5 lb flywheel$152.00 regrind cams$190.00 new valve springs crank spin balance$75.00 Special Tools required$89.00 ball-gages$19.00 breaker bar$26.00 impact torx drivers$24.0grinding disks$20.00 Last edited by jeb532; 11-05-2012 at 04:42 PM. Reason: format |
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11-05-2012, 09:54 PM
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,127
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Gonna be a torquey motor. Especially if you can get the intake charge temperature down to less than 20 over ambient.
Rally or XCar in it's future? |
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11-06-2012, 08:50 AM
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#24 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
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intake temperature....been thinking about that...
Really want some l..o..n..g tube headers...used to create my own for my race cars. Typically the primaries were about 43" long and the collectors were about 20" long and the pullde hard from ~3500 rpm to 6000 rpm. "Top end horsepower sells cars....but mid-range torque wins motor races"...is the truth! |
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11-07-2012, 01:30 PM
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New England
Car: 1999 obw 2.5l 172,000 mi
Posts: 62
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wow thanks for the detailed yet understandable answers to my questions that was great
__________________
Right smart purchase, this vessel! Treat her right, she’ll be with ya for the rest of your life! 
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11-19-2012, 10:28 AM
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#26 (permalink) |
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Posts: 56
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update...
working the crank and block assembly. lookslike all the main and rod bearings are coming out at the high side of the tolerances...i.e...about 0.0015 to 0.0019 inches clearance. Guess I'll be running a little bit thicker oil than usually spec'd...
Best regular oil I've ever used...Valvoline 10w-40 racing oil...an "ashless" oil....comes from some specific wells in the northeast Ten years on one engine and as clean internally as the day I put it together. ZERO internal crud. As for a synthetic...only ever used AMSOIL...and don't have a ten year trial on that. |
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11-19-2012, 10:34 PM
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#27 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,127
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I've had similar results with Royal Purple. I have a Chevy 2.2 Saginaw in a Cavalier I built 70k ago. Still looks like new inside. I also believe the RP is what is helping to accomplish 33/45 mpg out of it.
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11-20-2012, 09:22 PM
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#28 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 56
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Arrrrgggghhhh!!!!!
down to the last rod/bearing assembly and I get a piece of grit in the bearing shell...
#@#$@#%@$@%$@! SO now, can I find bearings shells for just one rod...or am I gonna have to buy a whole fricking set... Sheesh!..and of course it had to happen while I'm showing my son how to do the crank/rod assembly |
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11-20-2012, 09:27 PM
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#29 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 56
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another aggrevation
I just discovered that the bottom of number two rod (Eagle rods) just kisses the block...so I had to go in with a small scotchbrite pad and grind in some clearance under the rod...plus wash down everything again...
Good Grief! |
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