2000 ej25 rebuild in progress

[jeb532]

Bought a 2000 Outback with a bad motor to use to teach my 16 year-old how to rebuild an engine.

Got the motor apart today, mostly (haven't split the block yet)...found pieces of inserts in the pan. Yep...that was definitely a rod knock

http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/5322009/?action=view¤t=insert2.jpg

Cylinders appear to be ok. Can still see the hone marks.

Intake valve tips all have a weird little dimple in the center..never seen this before...

http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/5322009/?action=view¤t=intake1.jpg

Exhaust valve tips looked normal...

Bought a UEL header on EBAY ($138)...fits very well...would have been nice if they had added just another 1/2" clearance around the front of the oil filter....so simple...no performance hit....DUHHHH!

Bought a Stage 1 clutch kit too...

Gotta say, been building engines since 1964...Subie engines are the weirdest combination of brilliant and stupid I think I've seen.

[cardoc]

"Gotta say, been building engines since 1964...Subie engines are the weirdest combination of brilliant and stupid I think I've seen."

Corvair, yes. Subie, no. Since you've been building so long, once you get it apart you will see what makes it work so well. It is a relatively easy engine to work with.

[jeb532]

I agree, it has been a relatively easy engine to work on. But Jeez, is it over designed some places. Its the first engine I've ever come across that had eight bolts in the bell-housing. All my mid-70's Datsun (Nissan) had just four and were bullet proof. Eight bolts in the flywheel too? And I haven't counted how many are holding the blocks together yet.

And those exhaust ports....what were they thinking!? Didn't save one inch of exhaust tubing by torturing the exhaust gases trying to get out of that skewed port.

Then there's that one bolt between the exhaust and the cats that's nearly impossible to get to without a lift...and of course its the only one that seizes and has to be torched off...and that Y-branch in the pipe...can't label that anything but a bad idea.

[jeb532]

#1, #2, and #3 rod bearings shot...jeez how long did the previous owner drive this thing with it knocking? Amazed it didn't seize up

2000 Outback :: rods.jpg picture by 5322009 - Photobucket

2000 Outback :: crank.jpg picture by 5322009 - Photobucket

[cardoc]

That crank looks iffy for a turn. I would go new. New crank, cam, rods. What do the piston look like? May as well go full bore at this stage.

[jeb532]

I was thinking the same thing about the crank...will measure it tonight. cylinders look good. WIll measure pistons tonight.

know a good source for a crank and rods?

Suggestions on different cams?

[jeb532]

#1 journal 2.047" and round
#2 journal 2.044" and round
#3 journal 2.044" and round
#4 journal 2.047" and round

AfrikkingMAZING....betting the undersized ones were that way from the factory and they used the 0.002" undersized bearings...

[jeb532]

BTW...EVERY bearing in the timing belt idlers was dry as a bone and rusty noisy...as well as the pilot bearing in the flywheel.

Just bought a stage one clutch kit on EBAY.

[cardoc]

Crank/Cams, just shop around. Make sure they are spec'd and warrantied. When you machine the block and heads, center bore the rod journals as well. They are close enough oversized bearings will be okay. If you want to replace them, get them from the same supplier as the crank and cams. Makes things easier and you may be able to work in a lower price on a bundle purchase.

[jeb532]

Hey cardo I really appreciate your comments. Since 3 of the rods are toast (warped big ends) that leads me to...

Which of the EBAY H-beam rods are worth the money? Obviously Manley's are ($330)...but there are several suppliers in the $230 range claiming forged 4340 and ARP bolts. Ever heard of ETD, CXR, GSP, or ORGIN?

Also I live near Arlington, so Alamo Autosports is just a hop down the road...they have Eagle rods for $310.