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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,031
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I remove on average about 5 aftermarket alarm and remote start system a year due to conflicts with the factory anti theft systems causing no starts and tow in. As in tow truck.
I haven't removed any from Subarus because they aren't there. It may be a good idea to speak with your local Subaru Service about available options or known conflicts. The cars do have immobilizers. I couldn't find any tech bulletins, but that doesn't mean someone hasn't run into it. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Gen 2 Outbacks do not have immobilizers.
I have seen an occasional problem with immobilzer interface hardware / software. Most of the newer immobilzer systems (idatalink and Fortin) software is very stable and if properly installed works great. Some of the early stuff was glitchy, and sometimes would cause problems if the battery went dead ect. Improper installation causes more problems than just about anything, and not just with mobile electronics. Ryan |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,031
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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My VDC has a starter lockout when the system is armed. Properly working, the starter will not engage with a key if the vehicle is entered without first disarming the alarm system.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,031
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Factory installed systems not only have the door lock and alarm but will also have some kind of anti-theft system incorporating a starter or fuel or both lockout. Some use the key information which is nothing more than a resistor inside the key, some a transponder built into the key, Honda - keys with the fob built as part of the key, that communicates wirelessly. My VDC system when active, kills the starter circuit and will not start if the car is entered without first disarming it. Even with a proper key.
Get your hands on an owner's manual. May be one online somewhere so you know all the functions of the alarm system and again, check with Subaru to make sure what ever system you want to install is compatible. The interupts built into some aftermarket systems will also interupt or corrupt the factory system. I get Fords with aftermarket systems where the aftermarket system shorted and fried the BCM or PCM security circuits. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: near Knoxville, TN
Car: too many to list! Lots of Subys tho!
Posts: 640
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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2nd gen Subarus do NOT have engine immobilizers. . . starter disable only. And unhooking the security module (beside the radio) effectively disables it. . . .cars without the system still have the connector. It's mostly a 'content theft deterrent' system, meaning if you lock the car and then unlock it without using a key or remote, it'll make some noise and disable the starter. It's passive and you probably wouldn't notice it unless you did something like lock it with the window down and then reach through and unlock it manually and open the door.
DEI makes some pretty top shelf stuff and I wouldn't hesitate to put one on my own car (or friend/family) without worry they'd ever be stranded from it. And I have. . .on several occasions. First and foremost, the install is as important if not moreso than the product. Make good connections, route wires in an intelligent manner (always being considerate of anyone else that might have to work around said wires), and test everything before interfacing it with the unit. . . .any good installer will do that. If they like Scotchlocks and blindly follow someone's wiring guide I'd pass. Subaru won't know or care what alarm/remote start is compatible with your car. They'll view it like Cardoc. . . something that'll be a pain in the ass for them to work on down the road. These cars are about as basic as they come in regards to how they're put together electrically. . . no body control modules, no RFID immobilizer that needs programming. . . just switches, wires, relays, and a computer or two. Nothing that would be out of place in a 1980's car. If you hire someone to install it, do not leave their shop without knowing where the unit is, where the status LED/program/override button is, where it's interfaced with the starter circuit (usually right under the steering column at the ignition switch), and most importantly, how to override it in the event it fails or you lose/break the remote.
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www.lockmedic.com ben@lockmedic.com I'm elbows deep building a house right now (dec 2012). . . best to email me off the site, most part sales on hold until I get a roof over my head. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
Car: 03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Posts: 4,263
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
wow, good info/advice!
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Time Flies Like an Arrow, Fruit Flies Like a Banana! |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,031
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I may have not made it clear enough, and I apologize. I know how the system operates. If someone enters the vehicle without disarming the car first, it won't engage the starter. Not everyone knows how to get to the security module, nor knows it can be bypassed and started via a relay jumper. Point is, I have seen a lot of screwball wiring on aftermarket alarms and although they may have worked without fault for years, like any other electronic part, when it fails it tends to effect the systems it was married to.
Hopefully, if it is determined to have the remote start installed, be sure its covered completely if due to a fault of the module or the installer and all damages are covered. Including damage to OE electronics. All it takes is a short or a spike in current to create an issue. I am not against add on alarm/start systems. I have one on my Chevy that has worked great for 12 years. They aren't a pain either. It generally takes me 10 minutes to get to the modules, disconnect the alarm and reconnect original wiring. Then the car either starts or doesn't. If it doesn't, its a matter of pin testing the ignition to find the problem. And a couple times its been a PCM or BCM circuit fault requiring replacement. I have also had many issues with the factory systems. Mostly Chevy and Honda transponder failures. Any thing is possible. Just do the research. And if someone really wants to steal a car, they have it regardless of what is installed in the car. Quick "hook" is the fastest. Gone in 10 seconds or less. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Car: 2003 OBW 2.5L 4EAT
Posts: 267
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I had a Pro-Start remote starter installed recently, IMO it was money well spent as well. Shop showed me how to use it, disable it and the location of the over-ride button which they put on molding in the drivers foot well.
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'03 Subaru Outback 2.5L 4cyl w/all-weather 4EAT: 127,000 miles & counting '06 Subaru Forester 2.5L 4cyl X Premium 4EAT: 79,000 miles & counting Last edited by Performance Suby; 12-03-2012 at 08:06 PM. Reason: wrong word |
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