fwd fuse instillation to diagnose clunk clunk in rear of car.

[william77]

2003 ll bean non vdc. Rear right clunks for ten seconds then stops. Not brakes or lug nuts. cv boot looks good. A little bit of in and out play on axle between cv boot and rear diff. Just a little bit of in and out. Installed fwd fuse and the car clunks just once then no clunks. never clunks in reverse. Parts in diff that hold cv axle bad and it is popping in and out? Drive shaft doesnt spin with fuse in right? what else doesnt spin while in fwd mode? Can I drive the car fifty miles at highway speed to get it to a shop? Do I need a shop or can a subaru idiot who can change brakes and minor stuff on other cars (oh and once the clutch in a 77 ford pu ) fix what ales are baby?

[william77]

I usually write complete sentences, and actually wrote a better post, that didnt post. So this is the abbrievated version.

[burnout8488]

Originally Posted by william77

Rear right clunks for ten seconds then stops

Under what driving conditions? A continuous on and off clunking sound, like bang bang bang for ten seconds straight?

[cardoc]

Too many variables. A bad diff bearing, pinion bearing, broken gear, loose joint in the axle, loose park brake, loose caliper assembly, missing hardware on the pads, worn bushing(s) in the suspension.

Turning off the AWD removes the torque from the rear wheels, but all the parts will continue to move. If the sound deadens with torque removed then you have it narrowed to the diff and suspension components.

[william77]

The car is in park in our driveway. I get in and reverse up the drive with no noise. Then I put the car in drive and turn right and begin to move forward. The noise starts, clunk clunk clunk seems to be synchronized with the speed of the car and not the rpms. It clunks ,loud and is saying I'm definetely broken for ten or fifteen seconds then it stops and everything feels pretty normal. That description is the test runs before I installed the fwd fuse. After installing the fwd fuse, under the exact same conditions (under fifteen mph) It clunks once when I start to move forward then feels fine. We arent driving the car as we have a spare car. It clunks while going straight after the right turn and is definetely in the rear and fairly sure in the right rear and not the center rear. After the clunking stops, I drove around for five minutes under 30mph trying to get it to reproduce the sound with out any luck, but im pretty sure if I removed the fuse and tested it again it would do the same thing.

[william77]

Last bit doesnt read right. With the fuse out (normal mode) After the clunking stops, I drove around for a while and couldnt get it to clunk again. I have a suspicion that it is related to the e/m safety test I just had done where they appeared to use a flat 6 x 8 lift that seemed to pick up the cars whole under body. My dad says they wouldnt do it that way and that they have dogs that catch the frame. I'm suspicious because right after the inspection, the interlock is really loud. I asked them what the sound was and they said it was normal. If it were normal, it would have been making that noise when I bought the car less than a week ago and have been actively listening to. Had a thread going about that and CN Dave suggested that the interlock might have shifted and is now pressed against something acting as a sounding board. When I put my hand on the shifter down on the console, I can feel the interlock as well as hear it. Now I'm having night mares about broken trans mounts and all kinds of stuff. They wouldnt pick a car up like that right? All the cat converters are new and still look the same. So I'm hoping I'm paranoid. Working twelve hrs a day right now and havent been able to do much except crawl under and tug on stuff a little.

[william77]

Also, you should know that I have a set of new ish tires on the front and a different brand on the rear. They seem to have the same amount of tread left. Didnt know about potential issues till after I bought the car, and likely would have bought it anyway because of the stack of recipts, the general condition and the 4000 price. I bought it thinking, even if something major goes, I'm still in good shape. Goes down the road straight as an arrow, no weird noises when turning but I didnt do a figure eight test when I bought it. I'm hoping its something simple.

[william77]

Yes , bang bang bang bang. banging speeds up and slows down if I go faster or slower. Sorry I'm so scattered, have a newborn here and am not sleeping great.

[william77]

I wouldnt say the sound deadens when in the awd is disabled. The noise has the same intensity, but it is only one bang. I have been looking for a haynes manual but am having trouble finding one for the h6.

[rasterman]

Originally Posted by william77

Also, you should know that I have a set of new ish tires on the front and a different brand on the rear.

If this isn't the whole problem, it is probably where the trouble started. Hopefully it hasn't gone too badly from there. Get matched tires on all four corners pronto, or at a dead minimum you need to measure them with a tape around the circumference and verify that there is no difference. Even then you should prepare to match them up as different tires will wear at different rates.