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#32 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
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I agree.
The AC compressor pulley is most likely coming loose or there is internal issues. The belt is on the crank the way it is supposed to be. All the others are shifted. In his last set of photos it's off the PS pump. In the first set, it was on the pulley wholy. The distance between the crank and AC with the direction of the rotation leaves the AC pulley as he culprit and then it walks the other pulleys after the shredding starts. Couldn't tell you why it is staying on the crank except maybe its because the tensioner is holding in place since it so close. It's either that or the belt has been installed incorrectly every time where it wasn't placed on the AC properly. I have an AC compressor just sitting in my shop with less than 50k on it. Its an 02 off a JDM. I couldn't use it on my 01. The plug is different. Post a pic of the top of the compressor on your car and if it matches this one for line position and plugs, I can send it to you. |
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#33 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
Car: 03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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Quote:
OK, definitely a fair point that we are seeing things AFTER damage has occurred and the belt may be shifted on the idler due to damage. does the belt look OK to everyone else on the Alt. in this pic? ![]() Is there a measurement someone could make on the A/C to determine if its pulley is forward several mm from normal position? It certainly doesn't appear tilted enough to throw the belt off 2 grooves.
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Time Flies Like an Arrow, Fruit Flies Like a Banana! |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Serpitine belts are complicated systems. The only things that have changed in this car are the idlers. The other items have not been touched. All the adjustment is on the tensioner in this discussion. Adds up, so where you think it should be the belt turns and twists more stresses and torquing (twist) of the belt adds up
The belt pulls the accessories, so it makes sense if the belt before the alt is out of wack, it can jump between the alt and ac compressor as the belt is loaded and unloaded due to engein RPM, alt and ac load. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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I keep thinking the idler bolt could be cross-threaded or bent but, it's just one of several parts any one of which could be problematic.
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: PA
Car: 2006 Outback XT Limited
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Quote:
I have not owned a 3.0 engine so I'm not as familiar with the layout as other folks on this thread. I think the first belt failed because it was old, and the subsequent belts have failed because something isn't right about the replacement idler. I'd still want to check the crank pulley for separation just in case. Also, these belts have likely polished some metal to mirror-grade shine, wherever they've been dragging and snapping. What looks freshly polished in there? |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Here are pics of the AC compressor:
Photo Album - Imgur My normal mechanic said that the idler was sticking too far out as well. How can I fix this? I am planning on taking the car back to the dealer tomorrow and trying to at least get my money back for my parts, although that may be wishful thinking. What should I do guys? I am not a mechanic. Should I give up on the dealer and just take the car to my regular mechanic who told me the idler was sticking out to far to begin with? How could they put it on wrong? I feel like I have to deal with the dealer at this point because they have already taken so much of my money and seem to have done nothing. |
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