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Old 01-03-2013, 07:28 AM   #51 (permalink)
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If you all look at the series of photos he posted, the first set show the belt riding off the compressor and the alt, still on the PS. In the next set, the belt has walked off the PS and further off the AC and alt.

The problem was existent prior to any parts replacement, indicating that all the work, not repair since nothing changed, resultes in nothing changed.

The shredding could not have started at the PS pump. It did not start at the Alt. it started at the AC. It is walked further on the compressor than any of the other pulleys. That's the damage point.

Needs a compressor pulley or a compressor. The pulley is free running and rides on bearings. It is not a drive pulley until the magnetic clutch locks it. If the bearings are worn, new pulley. If its internal causing the wobble shredding the belt, new compressor.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:31 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Unless the dealer can truly justify replacing the previous parts, you could argue for credit from the previous repair to be applied to a compressor replacement. And don't get jacked into changing any other AC parts unless they can show internal failure of the compressor, as it will not be necessary.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:38 AM   #53 (permalink)
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When my idler pulley seized it destroyed the mounting location of the tensioner on the AC mounting bracket. Once the bearing seized the idler and bearing began to rotate on the bolt and eat away at the location where it was mounted.

I can almost guarantee that the place where you idler sits is not completely flat and would guess that it is worn more on the left than the right. This causes the belt to drive inwards and eventually it jumps a tooth at the alternator and then shreds.

You most likely need a new AC alternator bracket.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:56 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glennda5id View Post

You most likely need a new AC alternator bracket.
Which leads to the question what would make a solid peice of metal that is bolted to the engine to go bad.


Like i said, he needs to get a third opinion on this as I wouldnt trust either of the two other ones, all they are doing are guessing. Untill someone takes out a straight edge and checking alignments you are just burning up money.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:11 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Which leads to the question what would make a solid peice of metal that is bolted to the engine to go bad.


Like i said, he needs to get a third opinion on this as I wouldnt trust either of the two other ones, all they are doing are guessing. Untill someone takes out a straight edge and checking alignments you are just burning up money.
I thought it was answered neatly- if the original idler seized and caused the belt to yank hard, that could bend the mount metal and snap the belt in one go.

Then no matter how many replacement idlers you put on it, they'll keep feeding the alt incorrectly, alt starts chewing the belt, AC just makes it worse and then you're serially breaking belts.

I totally buy Glennda5id's scenario for this.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:23 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Its not bending the mount. Once the bearing seizes if the pulley continues to spin then it will spin against the mount and cause it to wear since the bearing is no longer spinning. I'm am looking for my pics. My mount was completely destroyed when it happened to me.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:28 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glennda5id View Post
Its not bending the mount. Once the bearing seizes if the pulley continues to spin then it will spin against the mount and cause it to wear since the bearing is no longer spinning. I'm am looking for my pics. My mount was completely destroyed when it happened to me.
Well whether it's bending or just getting torn out of round it's not allowing subsequent idlers to mount squarely. Definitely need to get a straightedge on it and then inspect the mount itself.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:29 AM   #58 (permalink)
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it's a used car so, no history is known. Some previous work or wreck could have compromised the mount bracket and it has recently cracked.

anyway, there are 2-3 good approaches to the problem here, but, they all will require some further investigation by someone actually ENGAGED with the problem. It will do no good to have the next mechanic throw a belt on and say "there ya go!".

wogmail - tell us what city you're in and maybe someon here can suggest a shop for you.

print this thread out and show it to someone who cares about helping their customer.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:57 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Heck, if he's near me I'll diagnose and fix the dang thing, but the first rule of living in central NY is that no one lives in or near central NY...
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:21 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Thanks people. I took it back to the dealer and told them either to put my old parts back on and give me back my money with a new belt so I can take it to a new shop, or fix the problem and at no additional charge.

The service writer said she will see what the service manager will do, so we will see about that. I dropped the car off at 730 AM and haven't heard back yet.

I am in the Northern VA area, in Stafford, VA. I have two other local mechanics that I trust that I can get to work on the car, but I am trying to let the dealer make it right before going to them. I'd prefer to not have to take it any further since I've already paid them a lot of money.

She said that they definitely would not charge me for any more labor, only for additional parts, and I told her that was unacceptable considering none of the parts they've replaced fixed anything. She seemed to understand what I was saying so hopefully some progress will be made with the service manager.
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