Your missing something. You are looking at everything electrical, however, there is something mechanical in this equation.

Could it be possible that the car was not fully in park? If the cable is tired, when you thought you had it in park, it may not have been in park at the inhibitor (known to everyone else as the neutral saftey switch).

I dont know why you say they dont have inhibitor switches, they do.

 

It was in Park. I thought of that first. That's why I unplugged the shift interlock solenoid first. To see if the contact in the solenoid was stuck and sending current back to the interlock module. Unplug it, open the circuit. It was the blown Fuse 6 in the under hood box that feeds batt to the keyless module to operate the key lock. It also allows the key warning to "ding". As soon as I put the fuse in, ding, ding, ding, ding. That's when I pulled the key.

Some time ago, there was argument of sorts that Subaru did not have starter kill in the security systems. I let it go after a couple post. It had to do with installing after market alarm/remote starts I believe. My experience has been that these systems when installed improperly can cause a no start due to interference with the inhibitor in the security module or damage to the security module. Posters were sure there was no such thing. Its there. I'm just not sure what the combination to setting it was.

 

I had the park thing happen to me but the symptoms were different. I could remove the key but it would not start. Took it out of park then put it back in and it started fine.

 

That's the two modules working separately. The keyless module controls the keyless functions and the key lock in the cylinder. The interlock module controls starting controls based on gear selection and the interlock solenoid at the gear shift.

Most times there is an issue with the interlock solenoid such as starting or not releasing from Park its due to dirt and debris making the solenoid stick in a closed circuit telling the module not to allow start or open circuit not allowing for a release of the lever. Cleaning the solenoid with WD-40 and moving it with the manual release generally frees it up.

If it happens again, try the WD-40.

 

Thanks I will do that. It is a pretty dirty car. When I think about it, this hasn't happened at all since the leak in the power steering was fixed.

The only security system problem I have had caused the head lights to flash on and off. I felt pretty silly driving around like that before I got it fixed. Yes, I know they're blinking...my battery died and I haven't figured out how to make them stop...I was working on it but had to pick my daughter up from school...yes they are blinking I know...

 

OK I misunderstood, as an inhibitor switch is what subaru calls the neutral saftey switch, You are talking about a starter kill circuit.

Depends upon the level of equipment in the car I think. My 2005 ltd doesnt have it but the next one up with the H6 does

 

Cardoc,

You have an '01 VDC. Was the security package standard? If so, is there a way to test it? My security light never flashes, period. Could it be a bad bulb, or were they LED? Yes, I have a keyless remote for it.

Thanks!

 

Do you have an aftermarket remote starter? Is your keyless entry OEM?

Quick test, lock the car/set the alarm with the remote. Then unlock the driver's door with the key (not the remote) and open the door. Does the alarm go off? If it doesn't, there is a good chance your security system has been disabled. This is the case with my Outback, as I have an aftermarket remote starter installed.

 

If you open the driver door, push the lock button twice, the security light should flash indicating valet.

It will go out when its started while in valet.

Its there to indicate the system is active as a deterent.

Turning off the valet is the same as setting it.

Arming the car is just shut the doors and hit the lock button. If someone tries to open the door, the security light will flash. You can set it to sound the horns also, either with setting or entry, but I don't have the manual handy to look it up. I have my horns off because those Hellas are loud. It only honks if the system is set and a door is open or if a door is opened after setting.

 

Tried that. Still not lighting up Security, and the lights don't flash, either.

I'm looking through the owner's manual now. The one I have is for an '02, though. Would that make a difference?

It almost seems like A) it's stuck in valet mode, or B) mine doesn't have it...

 

I think all the VDC models had it. It could be the bulb is out. Does the horn sound if you lock the doors with one open?

 

Yes.

Doors closed: lock button sounds horn 1 chirp, unlocking 2 chirps

If a door is open, pressing the lock button chirps the horn 3 times, then one more when the last door is close.

I just locked them with the remote. I'll go out in a few minutes to see if the light is flashing, and I'll unlock it with the key to see if it sets off the alarm.

No parking lights flash when locking or unlocking.

 

Okay, I'm not doing anything right now, so here you go.

Check fuse 2 & 7 in main fuse box. You can also check it by shutting the doors and then lock with the fob and hit the car. The horns should sound.

Here's how it works:

Security System

FEATURES


•The security system protects the vehicle from a theft action (unauthorized entry into the vehicle). Upon detection of such an action, it gives audible and visible alarms by causing the horn to sound and the parking lights to flash. It also immobilizes the vehicle by disabling the starter circuit.
•Unauthorized entry is monitored through the switches on the doors, rear gate and trunk lid. If one of the switches is turned ON, the system interprets it as an attempt of unauthorized entry and gives alarms while disabling the starter circuit.
•Unauthorized entry is also monitored by the impact sensor. The system operates in the same manner as mentioned above whenever the sensor senses an abnormal impact on the vehicle.


1.ALARMS

•When activated, the security system causes the parking lights to flash and the horn to sound intermittently. In addition, the security indicator light on combination meter flashes fast and the starter motor circuit is disabled.
•The alarms automatically turn OFF after 30 seconds . However, they will be reactivated if the vehicle is tampered with again.
•The alarms are activated when a door, rear gate or trunk lid is opened without using the keyless entry transmitter. (When the system is armed, the alarms will be triggered even if a door is opened by releasing the inside door handle or the trunk lid is opened by operating the trunk lid release lever.)
•They are also activated when an impact on vehicle body is sensed.

2.HOW TO ARM THE SYSTEM

1.Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2.Make sure that the trunk lid is closed.
3.Close all the windows. Close and lock all the doors and rear gate.
4.Push the transmitter's LOCK button.
5.The horn will chirp once and the parking lights will flash once.

NOTE: The system can be armed even if the windows are open.


6.Confirm that the security indicator light blinks slowly (once every two seconds ). If any of the doors, rear gate or trunk lid is not properly closed, the system warns the driver of this by causing the horn to chirp three times, the parking lights to flash three times, and the security indicator to flash rapidly. When the door, rear gate or trunk lid is closed, it will be automatically locked and the security system starts working. The indicator light blinks every two seconds when the system is armed and continues to blink until the system is disarmed.

3.HOW TO DISARM THE SYSTEM

1.Push keyless entry transmitter's UNLOCK button.
2.The horn will chirp twice and the parking lights flash twice.
3.The security indicator light turns OFF.
4.The interior light will illuminate for 30 seconds and then turns OFF. (However, if the key is inserted into the ignition switch or a system arming procedure is performed during this period, the interior light will turn OFF)
4.HOW TO STOP ALARMS Push the transmitter's UNLOCK button or turn the ignition switch from "LOCK" to "ON" repeatedly three times at an interval shorter than five seconds .

 

Fuses 2 and 7 are good... They are the ones behind the cubby on the left of the steering wheel, right?

 

I can't find any fuses in the manual labeled for Security system.

According to this '02 manual:
Cubby/Coin holder block: 2 is Heater Fan, and 7 is front fog light
Under hood: 2 is Radiator cooling fan (Sub), 7 is Meter - SRS airbag system warning light

 

Yahoo autos is listing 2 different security system options for the '01 VDC...

Options - 2001 Subaru Outback H-6 3.0 VDC - Yahoo! Autos

 

The main box under the hood holds the security fuses. As I posted above, my key was locked in the cylinder due to a blown #6, horn/hazard.

I've attached the diagram for the security system. The diagram also shows fuse 5 with 2 and 7 providing battery.

Fuse 2 provides batt to the horn relay as well as the light on the cluster. So that one is good since the horns sound with security changes. May just have a blown bulb.

Did you try the shock test to see if the alarm sounds? According to the information on the security module, it has an adjustment on it for shock level. The module is behind the center console by the stereo/storage compartment.

 

Now you all are going to make me read my owners manual

 

The fuse you describe (fuse 6) 30a feeds power to the power window breaker, power windows, fuse 3 (15a) in the interior box then on to the keyless module as well as the door lock timer since this fuse i presume was intact I'd take a long look at the power window circuit, including the breaker

 

I added the Subaru Security System Upgrade to my base model '02, and it did include the Starter Interrupt & Horn Relay that mounts above the left side fuse box. I would assume that if it comes in the kit, it's also a standard feature on cars that have "Security" in the upper line packages from the factory (ah, but we all know about 'assumes') .

From the install sheet:
7. With the alarm sounding, attempt to start the engine. The engine should not start.
a. If the engine starts, ensure that the starter interrupt relay is properly installed.

 

Again this morning with the key locked in the cylinder. Blew the fuse again. So, I have a short in the Hellas, wires or the clockspring is the issue. I also lose cruise control function on the steering wheel while the switch remains lit. I know when it happened too.

You know how there may be intersections with 2 left turn lanes? Well, some dumbass decides to go from the left turn lane right into the right lane. I hit the horn and he jumped back over. Got to the shop and blown fuse.

As for the fuse numbers, I have attached pics. I have a 20 amp in so I could get the key out. I ran out of 10 until my supplier opens.

 

Again this morning with the key locked in the cylinder. Blew the fuse again. So, I have a short in the Hellas, wires or the clockspring is the issue. I also lose cruise control function on the steering wheel while the switch remains lit. I know when it happened too.

You know how there may be intersections with 2 left turn lanes? Well, some dumbass decides to go from the left turn lane right into the right lane. I hit the horn and he jumped back over. Got to the shop and blown fuse.

As for the fuse numbers, I have attached pics. I have a 20 amp in so I could get the key out. I ran out of 10 until my supplier opens.

Maybe that's your issue? It's calling for a 15A, according to the picture of the lid...

I wish I could see a picture of this box that's supposed to be by the stereo. I've had the dash apart to do the stereo, but I can't remember exactly what was what at this point.

I'm really starting to think my VDC doesn't have the Security system. My research is showing the LL Bean had it, while it was optional for the VDC...

I have the original window sticker. My VDC has zero options on it.

 

Is it possibly in the picture below? I lifted this picture from the "Lifted SUS project" thread. I have no idea if his has the Security system or not...

 

All fuses are good. From the looks of it, it's only ever had 1 fuse replaced - a headlight fuse. I had a little trouble getting the one out that you keep blowing. When it finally let lose, it flew down to the battery tray... grrr. Good thing the box lid still has all spare fuses in it.

I locked the doors with the remote, then bumped against it pretty good 5 or 6 times. No alarm.

 

I posted this for someone else yesterday looking to install the security upgrade, so here it is again. Look for the module next to the radio/HVAC, and the relay left of the steering wheel. I see something in your photo in the approx spot, but it looks like a satellite radio module?

Edit: That picture is not from your car.....

 

Thank you, Fibber2.

I can confirm mine does NOT have the security system. The relay harnesses above the dash fuse panel are not present, and it does not have a horn by the AC dryer.

I guess that solves that...

So, now... where does one find one of these systems to install without breaking the bank at a dealer (if you can still get it there)?

I see SubaruGenuineParts.com has it listed - specific for VDC - for $118, but they don't list the part number.

 

It uses the same horns from the steering wheel.

I have edited your picture so you will know where to look. The module isn't that big.

I typed 10 amp but meant 15. I knew what it needed. Its 15 amp now.

On that, a ground wire for one of the Hella horns was losing conductance between the horn and ground. Fixed that, blew the horns, in the shop LOL, several times and fuse is good. I don't want to take the steering wheel off so I'll wait and see.

 

On that, a ground wire for one of the Hella horns was losing conductance between the horn and ground.

If that's all that you've found so far, then the fuse blowing incident is unfortunately likely to repeat. A high series resistance DECREASES current draw. By fixing it, you've increased the draw.

 

Yeah, I know. But I also believe the low tone horn to be causing it. It doesn't sound right. I have another pair coming.

If it ends up being the clockspring causing a short, I'll change it. Right now all the circuits check out from the CC knob, the horns work and I don't have any air bag codes. And both times the fuse blew, it was apparently after the horns sounded.