Check Engine:327 & 303

[scoobydude]

The car: 2001 Subaru Outback Wagon Limited (4-speed auto) with 213,300 miles. I bought it 1 year ago with 202,000 miles and I don't know it's history but it is in very good condition and appears to have been well cared for.

Maintenance: Timing belt/water pump/coolant/engine seals, etc./spark plugs/fuel filter replaced at 210,000 miles. Spark plugs are NGK platinums.

Problem: About 4 weeks ago the check engine light pops on in the morning when in 0°F. Yay. The engine did sound like it was knocking for about a minute.

After searching this site, I concluded the knock sensor needed replacing - so I replaced it about 2 weeks ago. The dash light stays on to this day.

I took it to Autozone today and plugged-in/read engine codes: 0327 low input knock sensor (bank 1), and 0303 cylinder 3 misfire.

Note: When I replaced the knock sensor, the wire broke at the plug-in connector, so I cut/spliced the new knock sensor to the wire sticking out of the harness.

Spark plug wires might be original. I'm hoping the knock sensor will work okay they way it's wired. Do I have anything to be worried about? Is the misfire caused by the knock sensor/cold weather situation or do I need new wire?

Thanks in advance for any info...

[scoobydude]

Car runs only on 87 octane (no ethanol) gas

[cardoc]

You could have a bad coil, wire or the plug in number 3 is bad. Could be a fuel injector stuck open and flooding the cylinder.

You do need to repair the knock sensor plug. If it is not secured tight, the vibration form the engine and driving will cause issue. I haven't had to look for one, but maybe call Subaru and see if just a knock sensor "pig tail" is available. Otherwise, go find a Subaru in a salvage yard and cut one off its harness. You'll have to find one with the engine in it since the KS sensor wire is part of the engine harness that stays with the engine.

[scoobydude]

The knock sensor is well secured for the time being. I will solder it and plastidip it soon.

My plug wires have " 7mm silicone hi-performance cable" printed on them. Is that OEM? I'm wondering because when I checked cylinder 3, I didn't get a click or anything to let me now it was secure. Maybe it's not OEM/not fitting well and that's the cause of the infrequent misfire.

After reattaching the wire, it starts and runs fine.

[Performance Suby]

The original wires are black and should have Packard written on them, otherwise they were probably changed at some point.

Sometimes if the plug wires are untouched for a long period of time they can stick to the plugs and when you remove them to change spark plugs they can be internally damaged from pulling.

I would probably change them if you are not getting a pop or click sound when you push the wire on the plug. Go with some NGK replacements and add some dielectric grease on the ends of the wires where they attach to the plugs.

[scoobydude]

No "Packard" print - I'll get those new wire you suggest. Thanks for the info!

[scoobydude]

Well I put new OEM Subaru wires on and it turns out the old wires were OEM after all. Car starts easier/runs smoother...and more responsively. Hopefully the dash light will go away...

[vic]

Originally Posted by scoobydude

Well I put new OEM Subaru wires on and it turns out the old wires were OEM after all. Car starts easier/runs smoother...and more responsively. Hopefully the dash light will go away...

I would stay away from "Packard" ign. wires...

[JohnnyPheonix]

I can somewhat speak to the 327 problem. Make sure the wire has good contact AND is oriented at 60 degrees from the front. That is, assuming the front of the car is 0 degrees, the wire should protrude at 60 degrees.

JP

[scoobydude]

Oooooookay, so I still have the check-engine light; cylinder 3 misfire.

I installed a new coil - what's left? the fuel injector? If so, are they hard to replace?