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#2 (permalink) | |
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Legionairre
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wine Country
Car: '00 Subaru OB
Posts: 56
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
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158,xxx and counting; knocking on wood |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Tokyo's between my toes
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ohio
Car: 2001 Wintergreen Outback 5MT
Posts: 6,511
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Not sure but I think you need to go through the hand-hole covered by the separator plate on the back of the block.
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Political signatures don't belong on a car board. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Car: 2006 Outback XT Ltd
Posts: 171
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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The problem with spun rod bearings is that the "spun" material had to have gone somewhere. Most of it probably landed in your oil supply, but some of it also may have fused itself to the crank journal (no oil = hot metal). If that's the case, you have to remove the crank and have a professional do the necessary machine work.
You also need to figure out why bearing went bad in the first place. Low oil pressure? Oil pan went dry? Contamination? Throwing another bearing in there without any sort of inspection or precision measurements of the internals is just asking for more trouble. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: '99 Forester S
Posts: 33
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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It's nearly impossible to just replace the rod bearings with the motor in the car. Horizontal motors don't allow you to get at the top rod bolts. Believe me I've tried and I currently have a 2.5L dual cam motor all apart in my garage lol.
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'99 Forester S '05 Mazda6i Sport |
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