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No Highbeams '97 Legacy Outback

9K views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  plain OM 
#1 ·
Recently high beams have stopped working on my '97 Legacy Outback. When multifunction switch set to "lights on", low beam position, everything works right. set to "lights on", high beam position, no head lights at all, only parking lights. If I hold the MFS all the way back I get everything, High beams, low beams and parking lights. So the high beam bulbs and their circuits are ok, it seems, but I don't want to drive around all night holding the MFS back the whole time.

Is there a possible relay problem, or do i just need to buy a new multi-function switch? Or has anybody ever repaired a MFS?

Thanks to everybody for making this such a ridiculously useful website.

-w
 
#2 ·
Sounds like a problem in the "dimmer and passing switch" part of the MFS. I don't think this is a relay issue; however, before going further . . .

Does your car have daylight running lights? Does it have the security system?

Does the "HI BEAM" indicator in the combination meter (instrument panel) come on when the MFS is pulled back ("Passing") or set for high beam?

Welcome to the Forum, and thanks for the thanks. Yes, we might sometimes border on the ridiculous :D
 
#4 ·
Sounds like a problem in the "dimmer and passing switch" part of the MFS. I don't think this is a relay issue; however, before going further . . .

Does your car have daylight running lights? Does it have the security system?

Does the "HI BEAM" indicator in the combination meter (instrument panel) come on when the MFS is pulled back ("Passing") or set for high beam?
Should have included those details. No, no daylight running lights, no security system. With MFS is pulled back I get low beams, high beams AND the high beam indicator light on. When the MFS is set for high beams, no high beams and no high beam indicator light, just parking lights.

Is there anything i can do for the "dimmer and passing switch" part of the MFS, or do I need to replace the unit outright?

-w
 
#5 ·
Okay, that sort of simplifies things.

I've attached the wiring diagram. Presuming that it's the same in your car, it looks as if the "up" (high beam) position of the dimmer and passing switch isn't working.

I don't think the dimmer and passing switch is a separate part on the MFS, but I haven't examined a 97 MFS to see. However, while the symptoms point to the dimmer and passing switch, it's not conclusive till proven. I would recommend testing the switch first.

This could be done by finding connector B71, the one that goes to that switch, disconnecting it, and then check for continuity on the switch between the various connector pins when the switch is in the three different positions. I suspect that when the switch is in the Up (high beam) position, there is no continuity between pins 1 and 3. If this is the case, it could be caused by dirt or corrosion on the switch contacts, which, if the switch can be taken apart, might be cleanable. Again, I haven't had any experience with this and so can't say one way or the other.

(I have also attached instructions for testing the switch -- this is from the 1999 FSM, but should be similar if not the same.)

Let us know how you proceed and what you find.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
so finally got a chance to get under the steering wheel with an ohmmeter and found the B71 connector. Sure enough, when the MFS is pulled back to "flash", pins a1 and a3 have full conductivity, 0-1 ohms, but when the MFS is set to "high beams" the same pins, while they still have *some* conductivity, rack up a whopping 35-40 ohms! This is not going to let enough voltage through to run any headlights. Clearly there is a dirty or degraded connection in the MFS.

So, has anybody every tried to disassemble and service the connections inside a multifunction switch, or do i Just need to pack it in and order a new one?

-w
 
#7 ·
Well, that's a good sign, in a way.

I know that there are posts here where others have disassembled the turn signal switch and been able to clean the contacts. But I don't recall reading any about the headlight/dimmer switch.

Even if you're going to replace with a new or used unit, the airbag, steering wheel, clockspring connector etc have to be removed first. So, there's nothing to lose by first trying to clean the connections yourself.

If you do try it, and can document and post the procedure (perhaps with photos), it might be of help to others who, in future, look to this forum for assistance.

Pleas do keep us informed.
 
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