Towing home a 1999 Outback

[jim662]

I just posted the issue I have with my transmission, but I need to get the vehicle home first.

I'm thinking about my options and I don't really want to drive it in limp mode.

U-Haul has the tow dolly that will allow it to be towed with the back two wheels on the ground. I know this is not good with the AWD and that I would need to disconnect the drive shaft.

My question is: how difficult is it to disconnect the drive shaft on a '99? I've seen references to "4 bolts." I presume this means the ones on the rear differential. Will removing these bolts allow me to to the vehicle with the front two tires on the dolly? I saw a video somewhere where the whole exhaust system had to be removed to remove the drive shaft. I'm hoping I wouldn't have to go that far to take power away from the back wheels. I'm not going to be able to pull the exhaust system in the seller's driveway, but I can get to the bolts on the differential.

Please let me know what my best option is. Thanks.

[HILTZ]

Originally Posted by jim662

I just posted the issue I have with my transmission, but I need to get the vehicle home first.

I'm thinking about my options and I don't really want to drive it in limp mode.

U-Haul has the tow dolly that will allow it to be towed with the back two wheels on the ground. I know this is not good with the AWD and that I would need to disconnect the drive shaft.

My question is: how difficult is it to disconnect the drive shaft on a '99? I've seen references to "4 bolts." I presume this means the ones on the rear differential. Will removing these bolts allow me to to the vehicle with the front two tires on the dolly? I saw a video somewhere where the whole exhaust system had to be removed to remove the drive shaft. I'm hoping I wouldn't have to go that far to take power away from the back wheels. I'm not going to be able to pull the exhaust system in the seller's driveway, but I can get to the bolts on the differential.

Please let me know what my best option is. Thanks.

Hi Jim, do you really need to disconnect the drive shaft, it is my understanding that all you have to do is pop a 15amp or 20 amp fuse into the AWD disabler unit underneath the bonnet. (Left hand side) This then disables the AWS for towing or for turning front wheels or rear for independent reasons.

[Wagondude]

Originally Posted by HILTZ

Hi Jim, do you really need to disconnect the drive shaft, it is my understanding that all you have to do is pop a 15amp or 20 amp fuse into the AWD disabler unit underneath the bonnet. (Left hand side) This then disables the AWS for towing or for turning front wheels or rear for independent reasons.

That only works while the car is running. The drive shaft needs to be disconnected. How far are you moving the car? You might be better off to rent a truck and trailer from Uhaul. or borrow a truck and rent a trailer. If not going far (like across town), just call a tow company to flatbed it. About the same cost as renting equipment to tow it.

[HILTZ]

Originally Posted by Wagondude

That only works while the car is running. The drive shaft needs to be disconnected. How far are you moving the car? You might be better off to rent a truck and trailer from Uhaul. or borrow a truck and rent a trailer. If not going far (like across town), just call a tow company to flatbed it. About the same cost as renting equipment to tow it.

Hi Wagondude, it is my understanding that the car doesn't need to be running, according to my manual as long as your ignition key is only turned to the ACC position and the Front Wheel Drive FWD lights on your dash, then all should be go for front wheels raised for towing. Doesnt say anything about removing drive shafts. But that said I'm not a qualified mechanic. Regards - P.s This is mentioned post referes to Automatic transmission models only, manual transmission cars should never be towed front wheels raised, moved only by flat bed.

[plain OM]

. . . .according to my manual as long as your ignition key is only turned to the ACC position and the Front Wheel Drive FWD lights on your dash, then all should be go for front wheels raised for towing.

That doesn't seem right. Can you provide the exact wording?

Inserting the fuse only disables the AWD control system; in effect, when the fuse is installed, hydraulic pressure will not be applied to the transfer clutch piston and therefore there will be no power transfer to the rear wheels. However, if the engine is running, the rest of the transmission is still being supplied with circulating ATF required for lubrication and cooling.

The transfer clutch plates are set in hubs and their friction surfaces are very close to each other, even when there's no hydraulic pressure being applied. In the two-up, two-down, engine off, towing scenario, the drive plates, which are attached to the transmission output hub (and the front wheels), would not be turning, while the driven plate, which are attached to the rear drive shaft hub, would be turning. Because there's nothing to prevent the plates from touching each other, and as there's no ATF to keep things slippery and cool, the friction surfaces will be subjected to a situation they are not designed for. As a result, there could be undue wear and ultimately loss of AWD function.

Attached pic shows the way the clutch plates are stacked in the hub, with the drive and driven plates alternating. There's a spacer that fits over the top plate and a "C" ring that snaps into the visible groove in the hub. It also shows the top plate with its wear surface melted. This damaged clutch wouldn't transfer any power to the rear wheels.

[zstamp19]

Hey you might look around at u hauls a lot of them have full car trailers and that would solve your whole problem. I have used them several times from u haul.

[ChrisInVT]

It's VERY easy to disconnect the driveshaft. All you need is two 10mm wrenches (one ratcheting one would make things quicker). Should take you all about 10 minutes, even with rust.