Subaru Outback Forums banner

Moving with a 5x8 trailer

13K views 47 replies 9 participants last post by  normalabby 
#1 ·
Howdy folks! I'm going to haul a 5x8 trailer full of stuff from South Dakota to Washington. I've never driven with a trailer before. But before I bought this car, I had never driven a manual transmission, and I learned in a week to do the reverse of this drive!

I have a manual 2005 XT. I'll run OBD Check on my phone throughout the trip, I got an infrared thermometer to check wheel temp, I'm going to get brakes installed. I'm currently donating and selling a bunch of my stuff, and I don't know exactly how much I'll have to move. I don't fear about filling an enclosed trailer, I will be moving with zero furniture... but I do have a lot of various hobbies that take up space.

Two things I hope to get some input on: which route to take and general thoughts about the trailer choice.

Route 1

I've driven this a lot- I know all the stops my dog and I can make. It's shorter and less overall elevation gain. I dread dropping down into Idaho from Montana.. and going over all the various passes.

Route 2

Longer, more elevation gain/loss but the steepest slope is a lower grade than route 1. Far far less familiar route. I've gone the second half from SLC-Seattle, but not from my current location to SLC.

Trailer 1
United XLV 5x8

Trailer 2
Tractor Supply Company 5 x 8 Utility Trailer, 1,600 lb. Payload Capacity, 2,000 lb. GVWR - Tractor Supply Co.

I'm really torn on the trailer choice.
(1) I want to go the enclosed route because then I have free storage for a few months (I will need storage for a few months). I have a place to park it outside, I will not have a place to park it inside.
(2) I will be rained on during that drive. If I am not, this truly will be a crazy dry spring for the West.
(3) The cheapness of the open trailer is enticing. Money will be tight for a few months, so any savings is important.

I also have been looking into the options for the trailer after it will be empty. There are some pretty neat things people have done with cargo trailers, to make them more like teardrops. But I could also build that up from an open trailer, so the after-use is less important.

Edited to add: anything extra I should do to my car? Could a sway bar upgrade help? I haven't had mine looked at (but I also don't have any specialty shops around).

Basically- any thoughts?



Bonus- hitch photos. I'm currently having the car looked at by a mechanic buddy.

 
See less See more
4
#3 ·
As for MT transmission vs towing or any use period. Your foot is either holding the clutch down or not - there is no slipping the clutch or your doing it wrong. STop and go traffic same deal no dragging the clutch to control speed its either let out or held down nothing between.

Do you know the history of the car? The XT's can blow turbos and trash engines quick when you don't know what your doing or what your hearing etc. The XT also with the wrong clutch use aka prior owner can easily have a smoked clutch in 30-60,000 miles and your going to be towing a trailer a long way with a clutch you know nothing about. Have the clutch inspected and do not be surprised if you need a new one. Replace all the gear the bearings and the flywheel not just the clutch plate.

Both of your trailers are giant parachutes! If you go open trailer ditch the massive airbrake ramp sticking up that alone will make towing with the subaru challenging.

The box trailer you need to go smaller even empty weight your pushing your luck with that one.

Read the post above and look at what he did. This is hands down the best approach and smartest way to think about it given your workable towing load over the terrain your expecting to cover.
 
#4 ·
Regarding car stuff make sure the car is 100% have the down pipe pulled and the turbo inspected for play in the bearings. Has the banjo bolt been inspected or removed?

Have the clutch checked for material % left etc XT owners are famous for burning through clutches very fast you could get 200 miles down the road and find your self stranded at the bottom of the first climb because your clutch is done.

Oh and your haul weight for the climbs and such ideally you want your all up weight trailer + load weight no more than 2000lbs. Any outside temp locations exceeding 90 degrees you want to watch your temps like a hawk and probably avoid any climbs hit the climbs early morning or evenings when its cooler out.
 
#5 ·
I had the banjo bolts pulled/replaced with the timing belt about 5000 miles ago. I have had the car for 3ish years now- it came with all the records, they weren't bad. I insist somebodies Grandma got upsold, or something. It was pristine.

Do clutches have a tendency to drop quickly? RPMS pop up in tandem with acceleration. A clutch is on its way out if it does not do this, correct? I learned on this thing, I'm the one that did the damage. I figured it would need a new one at some point.

I honestly don't know if I can trust anyone in this area to look at turbo play. I see a few people driving around with hood scoops- but this is the boonies.

The one thing I forgot to add to this is that I've definitely dug through the forum. I read that post you linked, read the tome of Seabass, etc. But thanks for pointing that out.

On further reading, I should have upgraded to a 19mm sway bar years ago. Ordering that.

I can fold down the "sail" on the open trailer, which I was planning to do. I also have the freedom to take as much time as I want, so if I go enclosed, I can sail along at 60 and hope the wind is at my back.
 
#6 ·
If you would cut it to and through Canada, although longer, you would have much less elevation to scale....but then again, you would have to deal with Customs Canada....LOL
Someone suggested that to me a couple days ago if and when moving from US East Coast to West Coast (Canada or US)...
 
#7 ·
I'll have my dog- I think there is a quarantine or something. I'd rather not bother with customs with all of my belongings. But it'd be fun to drive a bunch of land I have not previously! (I slept on various family vacations up that-a-ways, though)
 
#8 ·
If you go open trailer don't get one with a big ramp period its a waste of money and fuel trying to drag it etc. Or remove the ramp lay it on the floor and stack your gear on top. Yes its a HUGE hit to towing ability and fuel burn and even stability with head winds. Simply do not get one and your fine. The only people around here that like these trailers are the yard crews they rarely ever hit the freeway and simply roll from one house to the next which case the ramp makes perfect sense. For your use your paying $ for something you'll never need and its just a major pain in the towing effort.

The issue with the enclosed trailer is your empty weight the heavier the empty trailer the less stuff you can take with you. Go smaller on the enclosed trailer you'll be happy you did.

My current trailer is a beefy 4x6 800lbs empty 2000lbs max axle rating. I've run with about 1200lbs in it a few times on short trips its not a weight even with the superior 2010 cooling in my newer car that I would choose to do on your trip. The 4x6 in my camping mode is about 1300lbs all up total which case I'll tow it anywhere that was by design by the way. My 1800lb all up behind the car boat which I towed all over the **** place with two different Subarus - no I would not consider hauling it on your planned trip too heavy for the Subaru and too much drag. Not enough cooling etc to make the trip enjoyable.

By the way we use 5x10 trailer just like your box trailer for a gear trailer on a racing boat the owner tows it with his F150 even nearly empty its a drag to tow yep is a Vnose even a nicer brand than the one you listed its a wellscargo very nice trailer still tall and a drag to tow.
 
#9 ·
When you say a drag, what do you mean? I'm going to wake up in cold sweats for months after? Or I'll just need to be vigilant and go slow n steady as I'm planning? My approach is that if Seabass can go from Florida to Washington with a much heavier/larger load (albeit on a flatter trip) I should be able to do a quarter of that.

I don't see the total trailer weight being over 1500 lbs. The v-nose is 800lbs dry. My junk is just more roomy than heavy. If I didn't want to turn it into a camper later, I'd go the 4x6 route.
 
#10 ·
The big trend right now for built campers are small trailers built up with power system and locking cabinets that flip out into kitchens with a roof top tent mounted on a rack that raises up and has an awning etc. Which case nice utility trailer is the best route.

Drag as in drag generated by the trailer. Toss a head wind at you and your struggling to carry even low highway speeds. No head wind your still fighting the drag effect of the tall trailer going down the road at speed etc.

For the money and your use makes no sense to go enclosed trailer like that. The enclosed rigs are also harder to store given they block sight lines and are more obvious than a typical utility trailer etc.

Just pointing out of all the trailer types your looking at the enclosed trailer will be the biggest looser regarding purchase price vs sold price and having to deal with it etc. The typical simple utility trailer offers up far more options for post trip modifications and uses also costs less from the get go and easier to tow and store.

If your thinking enclosed trailer working as a secure and dry gear hauler for camping and such go smaller! 5x8 is right on the edge of being too big for that type of use. Go a little smaller and the trailer works better for off pavement to remote camp sites etc. 5x6 with a lower roof line is actually a common size used for extra gear on camping trips etc. 5x8 is right in that tough size range its too small to be a big trailer and too big ish to be a smaller trailer.

As for Seabass his thread you'll see that he and I chatted a bunch about his trip. I doubt you will find him suggesting to people that its a good idea or an enjoyable way to make a move. Can it be done yes but not without non stop monitoring and paying attention to every aspect stopping distances - every little climb and outside temp increase etc. Your trip isn't exactly a flat mellow low key trip regarding weather, temps, climbs etc which case you need to simply keep in mind you have a CAR with a car cooling system not a truck. I've found the limits to my subaru cooling system many times its not an enjoyable situation when your trying to get some place with a functional vehicle that won't need to be replaced by the time you arrive etc.
 
#11 ·
I've been battling my father on enclosed vs open. He wants me to get an enclosed, I'd rather save the little bit of money and go open. But the storage issue has me leaning towards enclosed. I think open makes sense in the short term, but not in the long term (storage then conversion).

You should check out tnttt.com's cargo conversion threads. Pretty neat stuff people have done with theirs. There is no such thing as a 5x6 out here in the boonies. I'm stuck with 4x6 or 5x8. I'll let you know what I end up getting.
 
#12 ·
I have a 4x6 and will say one thing I love the size! Basically go anywhere with it fits in a typical two parking spot pull in with no over hang etc. good for road trips that way.

Very good for tight camp grounds we can squeeze into the typical 24foot parking stall.

I also store it in our two car garage and have in a pinch actually rolled it up against the front wall of the garage and parked two cars in also! I've had lots of trailers and hands down for ease of use and practical use this one has been awesome. I actually just installed a locking tongue box on it last night.

Lifetime Tent Trailer | PopUp Times Magazine
Thats the trailer I have.

As for gear it hauls sizable loads especially with the flip up tall sides in utility trailer mode. Lately its been dump runs hauling renovation debri to the dump. I hauled a bunch of family stuff out of grandpas old family house a couple of years ago Atlas metal Lathe on a large cabinet and a bunch of other stuff 4x6 trailer with a good frame and axle is pretty flexible in use.

This is what lots of people are building these days
https://search.yahoo.com/search;_yl...r&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-901&fp=1

This one is the over the top version but you get the idea.

With about 700lbs in the 4x6 LA to SF so thats about 1600lbs all up we ran 70-75mph and were averaging around 23mpg tall sides up. In tent trailer mode tall sides down and a 42inch x 42inch large roof rack bag strapped down to the trailer deck we typically see road trip ranges from the mountains in the 21mpg to 26mpg on the flats. My 21ft racing boat all up 1800lbs with trailer behind the car 8.5ft max trailer width and 25ft long end to end sitting about 4 inches above the roof line of the OB I ran between 16-21mpg towing that. The boat was enclosed racing sailboat pretty sleek profile but WIDE and yes larger drag foot print than the 4x6 even in high side dump run mess format so you can see in the mileage differences how drag and trailer shape plays into how well they tow on long trips. The boat its self towed awesome one the most stable trailers I've ever had it would track behind a V8 across Nevada and Utah at 85mph like nothing LOL - note I used a V8 SUV not the subaru for those trips.. The Truck returns 16mpg but doesn't notice the boat vs the Subaru returns 16mpg at 70mph and its working hard on anything but flat ground and zero head winds.
 
#13 ·
I want to use this in the winter and damp fall/spring in Western Washington. If I'm going to tent camp, I'm just gonna bring one of my tents. But I've done enough of this https://youtu.be/IfCx_11dVq8 to know I'd like another option. So thanks on the pop up idea, but I want something solid. Have you ventured over to tnttt.com yet? They have both cargo conversions and teardrop ideas. I've barely scratched the surface regarding all the things people have posted over there!
 
#14 ·
Hmm, in my daily searchtempest search for cheaper options I did come across this: Hiker Trailer - Teardrop Campers, Teardrop Campers For Sale

I could expand my budget slightly to take into account most of the work would be done. I probably will cut a door in the back at some point...

This would be a much lower profile than a 5x8 cargo. Just when I thought I had it narrowed down, dang it.
 
#18 ·
4x8 would be easier to tow foot narrower is a big deal wheel to wheel its probably 5ft 6inches ish...

A 5x8 your probably looking at 6ft wheel to wheel its a big difference.

The tongue on the 4x8 looks oddly long, But long tongue hitch to axle distances make for more stability at high speeds. If I had that 4x8 I would probably be tempted to shorten the tongue some pending towing behavior.
 
#19 ·
You can rent a one-way u-haul truck AND trailer to tow the OB for $1500+ gas. It's even less if it's mechanically OK for the 5 speed to be towed on a dolly instead of a trailer. You'd need a cheap storage unit once there.
 
#23 ·
My advise is don't try to get "one trailer to rule them all."

Buy the trailer that you NEED for this trip.
Then get what you want after you get out here and sell the one you don't need anymore.

FYI, you do not tent camp in WA. (from someone who tent camps in WA)

The people that can afford it stay away from tents at all costs. WA never has a "dry season."
Last year was the driest on record. We had 6 weeks of no rain in the middle of the summer...that had NEVER happened before. July 4th for example can pour rain or be nice for a few hours. Having said that in Seattle we only get light spotty showers, but the mountains get the real stuff. If you send a lot of time on the trail, first thing you should do when getting to Seattle is visit OutdoorResearch.com and get some quality Gortex.

The only people that tent camp in WA are fair weather campers or back packers. ALL of us have a garage to clean and dry out our tents as tent rot is a very serious issue. Pop trailers are ALWAYS for sale and almost never used in western WA. Eastern WA is a different situation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jogosub
#28 ·
I just did that trek in an 07 OB 4 cyl auto from TN to Vancouver. Wound up taking I90 for the northern trek through South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho and Washington State. Elevation changes on the interstate aren't that big of a deal. . . going through the pass in Idaho/washington was a little nerve wracking but not too bad.

I used a 4x6 open trailer bought from Tractor Supply for around $450 to haul about 500 lbs of gear (trailer was about 300 lbs). Worked great, wouldn't really have known it was back there were it not for the receiver banging around when we hit bumps. I packed everything on the trailer to be weathertight. . . might not be an option for you but the price of an open trailer is definitely attractive.

I wouldn't fool with canadian customs if you don't absolutely have to. Just extra hassle that isn't necessary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: normalabby
#37 ·
I will post some pics... my car is being fixed now (broke the V-belt over the weekend) - and while at it, they are changing my 2 idler tension pulleys...lucky that I bought that service contract on my LLBeaner last year...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top