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Has anyone installed an O.E. hitch?

9K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  Dantrax 
#1 ·
I've read the threads about the aftermarket hitches, but I prefer the stealthy look and perfect fit of the factory hitch for our 2016 Outback 2.5. So I bought one and it is part number L101SAL012. Unfortunately, it doesn't come with instructions and instead tells you to download them at Subaru Technical Information System - Welcome. Fine, but you have to subscribe and spend $34.95 to do so.

Has anyone installed one of these themselves, and if so what did you do for instructions please?
 
#4 ·
Thank you very much 2Woofs!

Yes, the O.E. hitch is more labor to install, but to me it's worth it. I live in the northeastern rust belt and drilling holes in the frame [for an aftermarket install] is just providing an expressway for rust to start back there.
 
#7 ·
A lot of manufactures are going that route. That way the hitch can be installed at the factory without any extra steps. Also it reduced the vehicle weight since the hitch serves 2 functions.

Unfortunately, Subaru USA does not offer a 2" hitch. So Aftermarket is the only way. Also, I believe the other aftermarket hitches can be installed without drilling if you pull the bumper, but a lot of people don't want to take the extra hr to R&R the bumper.

Subaru Austrila offered a 2" hitch on the Gen 3 outback that replaced the bumper beam and included slide in frame stiffeners.
 
#8 ·
Also, I believe the other aftermarket hitches can be installed without drilling if you pull the bumper, but a lot of people don't want to take the extra hr to R&R the bumper.
Correct. That's how I did mine following the instructions found on this website. No drilling, no muffler removal (just pull the rubber hangers), no new holes.

But it's all moot since the OP already purchased the OE hitch.
 
#10 ·
That is a Curt brand hitch. I think that is the one aftermarket hitch that requires drilling (skip to 5:40).

The other aftermarket brands use the existing holes as mounting points.

The frame rails are hollow, and the mounting bolts need to be fed in from above. There are a couple ways to do that: 1) drill a hole (or enlarge an existing hole, like in this video), 2) enlarge a couple of existing holes that are in the floor pan, near the spare tire well inside the trunk, 3) remove the bumper and get access to the open end of the frame rails (what's called the OEM method).

Either of these three methods will work, I think that as long as you don't use Curt you can avoid drilling. And plenty of forum members have done any one of the three.
 
#11 ·
Thank you for the clarification and insight. I installed our O.E. hitch and am very happy with it.


Removed bumper cover.


Removed the original bumper support and discarded [or stored.]


Supported muffler with a strap, [just like in the video I linked to earlier] and lowered the assembly to access and remove the heat shield. It's a shame how quickly the muffler is already rusting after only three months in the northeastern salt.


New hitch mounting brackets ready to be torqued into place.




Ready for bumper cover reinstallation.


The mounting system for the top sides of the plastic bumper cover, which is pretty easy to remove and install.


The plastic snap mounting tabs on the bumper cover.


The finished product. To me, it looks so much better than having the entire hitch sticking out the bottom of the car like in the video with the Curt hitch. Imagine what that Curt unit will look like after a couple of winters when the paint peels off and it becomes rusty and unsightly.
 
#13 ·
I installed the OE hitch last week. This thread (especially the pictures) was very helpful. I'll list a few places where I goofed up....making the install far longer than it should have been.

  • There are nuts for attaching the bumper and extremely similar (but not identical) nuts for reconnecting the muffler. Properly identify them in advance and put the ones for the muffler away (assuming you are not removing the muffler as described above). I ended up using most of them to install the muffler and then had to swap them back when I discovered the error.
  • Make sure you put the washers in place on the frame rail bolts. I can guarantee you will be frustrated if you torque the bolts and reinstall the muffler/heat shield prior to discovering that they are needed.
  • You can tie the tail-lights in place withe wire or a bungy cord to avoid disconnecting them.
  • If the bumper facia doesn't install flush on the side, make sure you didn't get one of the rear clips too high where it clips on the back (under the taillights).
I'm still glad I installed it, but it was much harder than bolting on a hitch for my VW Golf. It's a high-quality hitch and fits perfectly, but it does take some work to put it in place.


Doing it myself allowed me to use locktite on all of the mounting bolts.....avoiding any guilt over the fact that Subaru suggests rechecking bolt torque every 6 months. I suspect that the number of owners who have ever removed the bumper cover to proactively check bolt torque is pretty close to zero.
 
#16 ·
No.

The only warranty items that wouldn't be covered would be damage or failure of an item that was a direct result of your installation or the part. For example, if you mess up the rear bumper during the install and it falls off, that wouldn't be covered. But if your front bumper falls off, it would be. Or if you install an aftermarket trailer light controller and it shorts out your electrical system, it would not be covered (probably not, unless there was something wrong with the wiring harness in the car that caused it.)

Also, if you read the fine print, you'll see that the manual says that any damage as a result of towing is not covered by the warranty - aftermarket or OEM, so you're already not covered anyway if you burn up your transmission.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the pictures and info blownb310. I'm going to try to install my OEM hitch this weekend. I'll try to take some pictures as well and let you know how it turns out.
 
#21 ·
The little orange trim removal tool & long screwdriver are the tools you must have to get the bumper fascia off without damaging it. After I figured that out it was easy except for the cut out which is too big in the directions. I measured & remeasured & still cut about 1/2" more than I wanted to. I'm going to tape & silicone a piece back behind the hitch after I reinstall the fascia. Other than that easy peasy.
 

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#22 ·
OEM hitch installed but you need 2 tools to get the fascia off. A long screwdriver & a trim removal tool (among other tools). Water and dish soap spray bottle for the muffler hangers, after you take off the muffler bolts just spray it up and the rods slide right out. Krylon spray paint for the rust spots and holding the bolts in place and Anti-Seize for the muffler bolts. I put silicone on the outside and dielectric grease on all the terminals of the sensors and lighting wire plugs. I can't believe how much rust was on the exhaust of a 4 month old car that hasn't seen a winter yet. I thought the exhaust piping was stainless steel? The directions for the cutout are not that accurate and I measured twice to cut once but I still cut a little to much (I measured more than once). Anyway I got all the parts off without breaking anything, put the hitch on and I'll finish it up today. I'm going to use a piece of the cut plastic to fill in the gap behind the hitch with silicone and gorilla tape. Also the pop out pins underneath the fascia come out easier if you just pull the center pin out about 1/8th" and then pry out the pin. Anyway good luck to all the DIY guys out there and I hope this helps you. I have some more pictures & video so let me know if you need it.
 

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#23 ·
A few more pictures and start prying from the tires and work back towards the rear of the car.
 

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#24 ·
Once the hitch is installed you cannot use the long screwdriver from underneath the car trick to release the 8 tabs. The hitch doesn't extend as far away from the car as the old bumper beam did. You'll have to get a hook and push it down from the top somehow to unhook those tabs.
 
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