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Sealing the new ride: Opti-Coat

44K views 149 replies 48 participants last post by  guntherbc 
#1 ·
I'm considering paying a local professional with a great track record to install Opti-Coat Pro on my 2015. Does anyone have any experience with OC? Is it worth it? I'm planning on either biting the bullet and going with the OC in the hopes that it'll keep the exterior protected and easy to maintain for years, or polishing and starting with regular applications of Opti-Seal.

What are ya'll planning on doing if anything? I'm particularly interested in feedback on the Optimum products.

Cheers-
 
#3 ·
OC is a very good sealant, but what exactly do you want it to do or are expecting it to do?

If you are looking to prevent damage due to physical items (rocks, branches etc.) your best protection is paint protection film.

I had my Porsche 997 C2S filmed: 3/4 hood, fender edges, side mirrors, headlights, spoilers, rear dog leg of fenders, door cups and have Clearplex on the windshield.

With film, it will protect your paint better than any other "device" while keeping the color showing through as opposed to "magnetic bras" and will protect from the physical damage. It can be waxed, but just have to careful around edges of the film.

The OC will protect to a degree and makes maintaining very easy since it's sealed so dirt does not adhere as well so chances are you will not have to clay the finish once coated, just wash (two bucket method) dry and use the quick detailer. Out of all the sealants, it's one of the best. Plus, it works really well with ONR if you are in an area with limited water.

After driving my 2013 on highways mostly, that front bumper is a bug magnet and tar catcher, so OC will help, but film will be the ultimate protection keeping it looking new and can be removed at any time, plus new films do not add UV protection so the paint under the film has no more UV protection than non-filmed areas. Previous films used to limit UV, so once you remove it after time, you see the outline from where it was as opposed to unprotected paint.

If t was me, I'd film it AND OC the vertical areas.

Deanski
 
#6 ·
I have Opti Coat 2.0 on all of my cars except my Outback. Stuff is amazing. My cars stay clean a long time, but clean up very easily, and best part is I don't have to apply wax anymore!

The video is of the Opti Guard, but same results.

 
#14 ·
I have Opti Coat 2.0 on all of my cars except my Outback. Stuff is amazing. My cars stay clean a long time, but clean up very easily, and best part is I don't have to apply wax anymore!
+1

I picked up my unwashed 2014OB and drove it straight to the detailer who applied the OC on the car. We also wash the car using the "Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine" and 1-year in are very satisfied with the results.

Amazon.com: 32oz. Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: Automotive
 
#7 ·
Experience from two different Subaru cars has taught me the paint is highly susceptible to damage, much more so than some other brands I've owned. I'm currently a Zaino fan, but keeping the finish on my '12 Impreza swirl free has been challenging. With the '15 Outback, I'm going to immediately have a film applied to the forward facing surfaces, and then I'll correct the paint and self apply Opti-coat 2.0. I'll OC the Impreza, too. My goal is to limit the damage to the OC surface coating, and about every 3 to 4 years I'll mechanically polish off the OC and re-apply.
 
#8 ·
Looks like a synthetic type wax to me. What makes it last any longer than those products? I don t think this will limit any damage and looks like any other product to me. I ll have to research.
I have a feeling that if I used OC I d still be doing it every few weeks like I do now, LOL.
 
#10 ·
Here is an explination from their website:

Opti-Coat (Opti-Guard) is a hard wearing, aftermarket, ceramic clear coat for superior resistance to scratching (9H) and chemical etching from environmental impacts. It provides permanent protection for all factory paints, and can also be applied to exterior glass, metal and hard plastic surfaces.

Opti-Coat is not a wax or sealant like other products on the market. It is a ceramic clear coating very similar to factory type clear coats. A layer of Opti-Coat measures approx. 2 microns in thickness, or about 100 times thicker than your typical wax or sealant. Unlike paint protection sealants such as PTFE, Nano Sealants, GlassPlexin that degrade over time and are easily removed through washing with water or chemicals, Opti-Coat does not degrade and cannot be removed by chemicals such as heavy duty truck wash or even caustic degreasers. It is totally resistant to these chemicals and produces a permanent film that is chemically bonded with the factory paint layers. Opti-Coat is effectively the vehicles new outer clear coat. It is far more resistant to chemical etching than factory clear coats and far more resistant than competing paint protection sealants. The 2 micron layer also provides a thick buffer between any damage and the factory paintwork. Go to our webshop or download MSDS
 
#11 ·
Opti-Coat Pro is an excellent automotive paint coating. You can get more info at this link: Optimum Polymer Technologies: Advanced Polymer Technology is in every Optimum Car Care Product. opt car care, optimum car wax, optimum car wash, While at autogeek, you can check out the discussion forum for even more information/opinions about Opti-Coat from the many professional auto detailers on the forum. Now, great as Opti-Coat is, you should also consider having paint protection film applied to your vehicle. This will give great protection from rock chips and splattered bugs. X-Pel is an excellent paint protection film ( Paint Protection Film - XPEL Technologies Corp. ) Check and see if they have a trained installer in your area, or close by. Subaru clear coat is considered by auto detailers to be very soft, so the better your protect your vehicle, the happier you will be.
 
#13 ·
Since I haven't done any serious paint protection on any of my previous cars, OC seems like a big step up. I hadn't considered clear bra or film, but will look into it. Thanks for the suggestions. I don't plan on doing much off-roading (at least in the near future), but do spend quite a bit of time in the snow and up in the mountains. My primary goal is to get a harder clear-coat over the factory paint while creating a shield that sheds the elements to make regular paint clean up via ONR or two-bucket wash a little easier. The videos and reviews online have convinced me that OC is absolutely the way to go; it's good to see that many of you have the same opinion!

I toyed around with the idea of prepping and applying OC 2.0 myself, but can't bring myself to do it on the new car. I think I'll give it a shot on my wife's seven year old Honda first ;)

Does anyone have experience with Opti Seal (wipe on, walk away that is supposed to provide outstanding protection and last several months)? My initial thought was to apply that periodically over the OC to 'renew' the finish if need be.

Thanks again for your feedback and suggestions!
 
#19 ·
According to my detailer, this may be in the cards with the automakers in the future. Not sure on when though... It's a great product, If it wasn't I would NOT have put it on 3 cars all in one month. full wash and clay bar and full paint restore on 3 cars/2 steps of buffing for each car ran $1,500.00. If a persons finish was perfect (almost impossible once the dealer washes it), then the product is cheap on Amazon $70-80 I think. I applied this to my new wheels for my Outback and wife's car too. Bad ass stuff.
 
#18 ·
Two downsides:
1. Application needs to be precise. The original Opti-coat Opti Guard should only be applied by a pro. 2.0 is a consumer version, but still needs careful surface prep and application. Done improperly you'll wind up with imperfections that must be machine polished to remove.
2. The feel of the surface changes a bit. Opti-coat won't feel as slick as a perfectly prepped, polished, and sealed paint surface using something like Zaino. It'll still look amazing, though, and require far less care after application. And it'll protect the soft Subie paint.
 
#24 ·
Opti-Coat



I must start by saying that I am not a professional auto detailer. I detail cars as a hobby and consider myself reasonably experienced.

If you have been talking to a professional auto detailer about Opti-Coat application, he/she is most probably quoting a price for application of Opti-Coat Pro, which is not generally available to "non-professionals."

What you find at Amazon is Opti-Coat 2.0, which is a formulation available to the general public. You can find more information at oti-coat.net. If you are a reasonably experienced auto detailer then go ahead and do it. Know in advance that the "kit" you found at Amazon is not complete. To properly prepare your car's finish for application of Opti-Coat 2.0 you must properly prep it: thorough wash, paint decontanmination (most probably with a product called IronX), clay bar polishing, polishing to remove defects in the paint then a final prep to remove all polishing oils, waxes and silicones from the paint. Then, and only then, are you ready to apply Opti-Coat 2.0. Here are the prep steps outlined at autogeekonline.net:

Directions:
  1. Polish paint to remove any defects.
  2. Clean surface with 15% IPA solution to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicones. (NOTE: You can skip the IPA step if your polish of choice is Detailer's Coating Prep Polish)
  3. Prime the applicator by making an X pattern across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.
  4. Wipe Opti-Coat onto a single panel at a time in a thin layer using two directions, front to back, and then side to side.
  5. Within 5 minutes, inspect the panel with adequate lighting looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
  6. Use foam applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out any areas where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be polished if allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self-leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
  7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired. Not recommended for glass.
To properly prepare your Subaru's paint for Opti-Coat 2.0 application you need tools: mechanical polisher, proper sized backing plate, proper size and type of polishing pads (yes PADS since you need several to complete the polishing), numerous microfiber cloths, clay bar and clay bar lubricant. This is not a conclusive list.


Don't think for a minute that since your Subaru is brand new that the paint is free of defects. Most cars are delivered to the buyer with what we detailers call "Dealer Installed Swirl Option (DISO)." If these defects are not removed before application of Opti-Coat, they will be permanently sealed in by the coating. If you are one of the very few lucky ones who take delivery of a blemish free Subaru, there is still the high probability of paint contamination with rail dust, brake dust, industrial fall-out. Removal of these paint contanimants requre at a minimum that your clay polish the paint with a clay bar and clay bar lubicrant.

I could go on quite a bit longer, but my hands are getting tired from typing. Just realize there is more to Opti-Coat than just purchasing and wiping it on, so there is a reason professional detailers charge the prices they do.
 
#23 ·
If protection from paint chipping from rocks or other debris, then film is the way to go. Yes, you can wax or use Zaino or most other sealants over film, but why bother when a good cleaner for films can be used or any plastic level cleaner/protection.

As good as OC is, it's still an added layer that physically bonds, but can only "give" so much when missle projectiles hit the paint protected by OC.

On the other hand, areas NOT filmed, OC is the best bet and the only maintenance is just wash and QD the finish.

I too am a Zaino user, have been for years. OC has to be done by a "professional installer" who is holding a "license" from Optimum who will warranty the application.

Yes, you CAN do it yourself, the consumer grade is more forgiving than the "licensed" brand of OC or OG as it's also called.

It comes down to costs and what you want to do to protect the paint.

If you do film the car, ALWAYS go and see other installs that the film tech does. Look closely for X Acto cuts, sometimes these guys get a bit aggressive cutting back film and can nick the paint on those edges.

Some film is full sheet, so the ENTIRE hood could be filmed as opposed to 1/4 q/2 to 3/4 hood coverage.

Look at all areas including headlights, side mirrors, door cups, fenders, etc.

Deanski
 
#26 ·
If you do film the car, ALWAYS go and see other installs that the film tech does. Look closely for X Acto cuts, sometimes these guys get a bit aggressive cutting back film and can nick the paint on those edges.

Some film is full sheet, so the ENTIRE hood could be filmed as opposed to 1/4 q/2 to 3/4 hood coverage.

Look at all areas including headlights, side mirrors, door cups, fenders, etc.

Deanski
You should never go to someone for tint or film that's using knives to cut. If they aren't laser cutting the film to fit the vehicle before applying then go somewhere else.
 
#25 ·
I can't speak to the OC product at all, but I am glad to see some fans of ZAINO here. I've got to share a small testimonial to the ZAINO products. The following is my calendar notes from May 28, 2012:
"I waxed BOTH our 2010 Outback and my '99 Forester with ZAINO products, and it is embarrassing to admit it is the FIRST TIME I have used this stuff that I bought at least as far back as 2003! It has sat on the shelf for 9 years or more and had separated inside the bottle and looked questionable. I shook it up well and eventually it seemed uniformly mixed again. I used Z1 PolishLok & Cleaner and Z2 Showroom Car Polish on the entire cars. I tried to remove some bird dropping damage on the front of Debbie's Outback with bug & tar remover, but it didn't help. Then I buffed it hard with the Z1 cleaner but it stayed. Surprisingly, it was pretty much gone after the Z2 polish application and eventual removal. I did the cars inside the garage, and then let them sit outside to let the polish completely dry before removal of haze with a white 100% cotton towel. I was amazed at how easily it came off, free of swirls and streaks. It was a tough job mostly because I have NEVER waxed the Outback and it's been as much as 8 years since I waxed my Forester! I really worked to scrub it as clean as possible. It should be much easier on a repeat if I don't wait too long. The Outback looks GREAT, and the Forester is much better, though at 13 years old, it has a fair number of imperfections in the paint now."
Well, I have waited too long (haven't applied again since) but honestly, I am STILL amazed at how well one application of ZAINO has impacted the cars. It STILL beads up some if the cars have been washed (yes, even the old Forester paint, which blows my mind.)
The OC product might far exceed this, but I have to say, for the ease of application and the results, I'm a permanent ZAINO fan. I don't plan to spend lots of time reapplying things, and really don't wash our cars nearly often enough, but having tried a couple or more polymer products (which were largely a nightmare to work with) and Meguiar's wax, and of course, other waxes in the "old days," I've never seen anything that was as easy and gave as much bang for the buck as ZAINO did. I sort of choked on the price when I first ordered it, and then lazily let it sit unused, mostly because I thought it was going to be a tough job, like previous polymers had been.
I think I've talked myself into getting another coat on the 2010 Outback again soon...
 
#27 ·
Clafication on optic coat please

There is one detail shop here in Richmond that will put the "professional" version
on a NEW 2015 for $895 (which seems like a high price). However, I am
confused on a couple of points, and would appreciate clarification:

(1) What I have read on various web pages is that the OC does NOT leave same
finish as waxing. The finish has been described as "not as slick" . I am not sure
what this means. Does the OC change the appearance of the car so that the
paint does not look as shiny (equivalent to a mat finish vs a glossy finish on a
photo print)? Does it have a texture to the finish?

(2) I have also read that it does not last more than 2 -3 years and then needs
to be professionally removed and re-applied. Is this correct?

(3) I have read that once applied, you do NOT wax the car, ever. If not,
how do you keep "the shine?"

(4) Would it be less expensive and equivalent to have a very good body shop
merely put a second coat of "clear coat" on the car?

Thanks
 
#28 ·
dr know:
1. Properly prepped and applied, the surface will be glossy and gorgeous. To those familiar with high-end finishes, it will feel just a little different, a bit less slick as freshly applied sealant or carnauba. This doesn't impact performance in anyway.
2. OC is permanent for the practical life of the car. That said, mechanic damage will take place over time, like scuffs and scratches, and you should not reapply new OC over cured OC, so the first coat should be polished down to paint before reapplication.
3. That's the beauty of the product. Wash and occasionally clay the finish to remove contaminants. You can still wax, just understand that the wax cannot bond to paint, so the life of the wax will be very short.
4. Definitely not. A good finish is many thousands of dollars and involves removal of all the trim and surface sanding. If not properly done, the original finish will be ruined. Please don't do this to your Subie unless your OEM finish is already damaged beyond repair.
 
#30 ·
follow up and use of OC on glass

Thanks for the information...

(1) Not to sound "dense", but to make sure I am not "misunderstanding." OC
is permanent, bonding to the paint (I assume that means the clear coat since
that is over the color-paint), so during the winter when there is road salt, etc.
all that is needed is washing. No longer needs to be waxed regularly to protect
the "finish". The car will remain "shiny" with gloss finish with mere washing.

(2) the local detailer states she puts the OC on all glass EXCEPT the front
windshield (which is definitely out considering the eyesight recommendations).
Any comments on its applicability to glass? When you scrape the ice off the
glass in the winter, does that remove the OC?

(3) I live in Richmond Va. I can travel out of the city without problems.
ANY RECOMMENDATIONS ON A SUPERB PROFESSIONAL TO APPLY OC.
I am concerned that if the car is not properly prepped and the OC is not
properly applied, I will have ruined my new 2015 OB !

thanks
 
#50 ·
Thanks for the information...

(1) Not to sound "dense", but to make sure I am not "misunderstanding." OC
is permanent, bonding to the paint (I assume that means the clear coat since
that is over the color-paint), so during the winter when there is road salt, etc.
all that is needed is washing. No longer needs to be waxed regularly to protect
the "finish". The car will remain "shiny" with gloss finish with mere washing.

(2) the local detailer states she puts the OC on all glass EXCEPT the front
windshield (which is definitely out considering the eyesight recommendations).
Any comments on its applicability to glass? When you scrape the ice off the
glass in the winter, does that remove the OC?

(3) I live in Richmond Va. I can travel out of the city without problems.
ANY RECOMMENDATIONS ON A SUPERB PROFESSIONAL TO APPLY OC.
I am concerned that if the car is not properly prepped and the OC is not
properly applied, I will have ruined my new 2015 OB !

thanks
Let me know what you find out. I live around the Yorktown area and am looking for someone who can apply this as well. I have done several searches with negative results. The only downside is I will either have to wait for the car or leave it overnight.
 
#31 ·
I put 3M Clear Bra on my VW GTI and have no paint chips at all. My last GTI looked like I'd been shooting a pellet gun at the nose of the car. I'd do that to any car I buy. I don't think I'd see much benefit from clear coating the rest of the car. I don't suffer from clean car OCD and it's not like clear coat products help with door dings.
 
#32 ·
If you live someplace with extreme sun and your car isn't garaged all day, then it make a lot of sense. Well if plan on keeping your car more than 5 years. I havent seen any car that's faired well in FL unless it was getting a couple hours of washing/waxing/polishing every week or two. and you get sand blasted in the southwest.
 
#33 ·
I have been a long time OPT user, and have nothing but good things to say about OC. I live in TX, and my vehicles are often subjected to a lot of sun. I'm very picky when it comes to paint/finishes (to the point that all my new vehicles don't have the plastic removed at the dealership until I get there, to make sure I don't get DIS (dealership installed swirls) in the paint.)

Subaru clear coat seems to be very soft (I owned a 2011 STi) and OC really helps. A few big advantages I've seen touched on are:

1) It's easier to keep clean; you don't need to clay anywhere near as often.
2) Water sheets off the coating, you can 'dry' a clean vehicle simply by causing water to sheet off.

When you combine it with no-rinse (as I do, I'm constantly in stage III water restrictions down in SAT), especially the new no-rinse wash and wax, you get an almost carnuba like look with minimal effort.

The key is removing all paint imperfections before application, then avoiding adding more afterwards. Don't use automatic car washes, don't pay for car washes around town. They use dirty water, rarely any microfiber towels and if so - dirty, etc - all containing many particulates. Do a two bucket wash with good microfiber, or single bucket with a lot of microfiber towels you don't reuse, and 30 minutes later you'll have an amazing looking vehicle.

I do touch up with opti-seal every 6 months or so, since it only takes a few minutes more.
 
#34 ·
Thanks, Ormandj. This is exactly the feedback I was originally looking for. Good to hear that the continued protection with Opti-Seal works as well.

Cheers-
 
#37 ·
Does opti coat negate the subaru paint / rust warranty?

If OC is permanent, why was one person recommending Opti Seal
to be applied periodically?

Anyone have experience with the opti-glass product?

Thanks.
By one member, I assume you mean me. Also, re: opti-glass, see the post just prior to yours.

I'm not suggesting you have to apply opti-seal periodically. I do, but I am on the extreme side of keeping vehicles looking nice. I apply opti-seal every 6 months because it adds a 'deeper' look to the paint when used properly. It's just another layer protecting your vehicle, but as it adds about 3 minutes to my detail time twice a year, it's worth it.

RE: opti-glass, it's fantastic, above 30mph I don't have to run wipers in my vehicles treated with it. I just don't know if it will interfere with the EyeSight tech, as the manual says not to use glass coating products. As I mentioned in a previous post, I may guinea pig it.
 
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