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Easiest oil change ever

13K views 71 replies 31 participants last post by  A440 
#1 ·
Thanks to those who recommended the Fumoto valve with long nipple. Using Race Ramps I elevated the car, attached a drain hose to the valve and drained the oil into an old Mobil 1 5 quart container. No muss, no fuss and no mess. The 0-20 oil is like water. When drained into a pan without the hose drain it splashes everywhere.

With the valve and hose the oil drains right into the container.

We live in the Philadelphia exburbs, I am a 3000 mile oil changer and we have over 12000 miles on the 2.5 ltd since September 2015. The valve setup will facilitate my change habit.

Thanks again
 
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#3 ·
No. The oil filter for the 2.5 engine (FB25) is located under the hood, right up on top of the front accessory case. It's the easiest and least messy oil filter to change that I've ever encountered on any vehicle.
 
#4 ·
Thanks to those who recommended the Fumoto valve with long nipple. Using Race Ramps I elevated the car, attached a drain hose to the valve and drained the oil into an old Mobil 1 5 quart container. No muss, no fuss and no mess. The 0-20 oil is like water. When drained into a pan without the hose drain it splashes everywhere.

With the valve and hose the oil drains right into the container.

We live in the Philadelphia exburbs, I am a 3000 mile oil changer and we have over 12000 miles on the 2.5 ltd since September 2015. The valve setup will facilitate my change habit.

Thanks again

way to long...try 2k next time...
 
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#19 ·
While a quality oil like Amsoil can go 15k between changes, I would not recommend that anybody still under factory warranty deviate from the factory required 6 month/6k intervals. If you have any engine problems, Subaru will not care what brand of oil that you used... only that you changed it within the specified intervals.
 
#10 ·
I am although interested if any have had issues with this valve set up. I would assume that during temperature changes the seals would expand and retract causing a leak.
My Fumoto valve hasn't leaked a drop, and I've never read a single report of one leaking. The Fumoto employs a simple 90-degree ball valve design, with a die-cast brass body, a stainless steel ball, and a Teflon-type seal. Consider also that it operates at moderate temperatures (up to ~240 F) and very low pressure (much less than 1 psi). Finally, the Fumoto valve comes with a "lifetime" warranty. I don't think you need to worry.
 
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#15 ·
I used to think that was the easy way....now as I've gotten older, I have found it is way easier to drive to the dealer, have a cup of coffee, a bagel, read the morning paper and voila my oil is changed and the tires are rotated.....didn't even break a sweat............
 
#18 ·
It's extremely easy to install and access.

I know I am risking a firestorm of comments but frequent changing of oil is the best way to preserve an engine. My Porsche 991 (it is a 911 type model) factory maintenance schedule provides for 10,000 mile oil change intervals. From what I've determined, the lengthy change interval satisfies pollution And economic goals. That is, Porsche can claim that it's car Pollutes less and is cheaper to maintain. That car requires 11 quarts of mobil one oil. I nevertheless change oil add filters at at 4500 miles.
 
#24 ·
I hesitate mentioning this because I'm not keen on, as you say, starting a firestorm. However there is some pretty solid evidence out there to support that long interval oil changes are actually better for reducing engine wear than frequent oil changes.

Just in the last few years there is some pretty reliable research that shows the most severe engine wear occurs immediately following an oil change. It appears that when fresh oil is put in the engine, the fresh detergents aggressively attack the protective additives that have attached themselves to the interior surfaces of the engine. Meanwhile, it takes several hundred miles (IIRC, anywhere from 700 - 1000 miles) for the fresh protective additives to attach themselves to the metal surfaces. During this period the engine is susceptible to more severe wear, until the protective additives have attached to the engine.

So if these recent studies are correct, more frequent oil changes means the engine is exposed more frequently to this severe wear period. Quick math says that following a 3000 mile oci as opposed to a 6000 mile oci will expose a car to twice as many of these severe wear periods, 17 more over 102k miles.

On the other end of the spectrum, there is absolutely no evidence that running an extended oil change interval (within the limits of the filter capacity and the motor oil additive pack life) add to engine wear. Within reason, of course. Clearly there is tons of evidence that severe engine damage can occur from not maintaining a car. But Mobil, Amsoil, and others, market oils that are specifically engineered for up to 15k mile oil change intervals. Fram, Mobil, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Wix, all offer filters that are designed for extended oil changes. These are intended to be used in a carefully researched and planned maintenance schedule - not for a means to ignore the maintenance needs of a car.

For me, it makes much more sense to spend money on a quality oil filter and go with the extended oil change interval. But I threw in the towel years ago at trying to convince those who still prefer 3k mile oci. Clearly they are ingrained in tradition and personal beliefs, and all the evidence will not change their mind, but only cause internet anger. :laugh:
 
#31 ·
Your comment made me chuckle, and then chuckle some more.

Yes, I agree 100%. I should have known better than to share this evidence here. It appears that discussions on subjects of this nature should stay over on Bobistheoilguy.com, where most have a more technical understanding of motor oil technology.

I too apologize. I was hoping for some intellectual discussion, not degrading comments about the merits, or lack of, of Amsoil and "snake oil".

I'll do my part to get it back on track by saying that I too find the combination of the FB25 top mounted oil filter and a Fumoto oil valve with the hose nipple end, the makings for the "easiest oil change ever".

I was at the Salt Lake car show last year and a few of us were gathered around an Outback at the Subaru area. I was admiring a few of the enhancements over my '13 and there were a few potential first time Subaru buyers there also. I commented that if any of them were maintenance do-it-yourself types, I could show them something super cool. A couple of fellows bit and asked to be shown. I pointed out the top mounted oil filter and commented how easy of oil changes it makes. They didn't seem to appreciate my enthusiasm for the design, but if they bought, I'm sure by now they do. :wink2:
 
#55 ·
Is a special wrench needed to remove the oil filter on the 3.6 engines? Is fumoto valve an option for the H6? Also, any other special tools needed?

What are the best sources to buy these?

Thanks for sharing.
 
#56 ·
"Meanwhile, it takes several hundred miles (IIRC, anywhere from 700 - 1000 miles) for the fresh protective additives to attach themselves to the metal surfaces"

No it doesn't. It takes about 20 minutes after a cold start.

High refined "synthetic" oil can't hold as much contaminate in suspension as less refined oil...Seems kinda counter intuitive, don't it?
 
#58 ·
I'd still be interested to read the research on this extreme wear after an oil change if anyone has any links. The only thing I seem to find is the typical Internet rumor and innuendo of BITOG and other forums. Thanks.
 
#61 ·
I'd still be interested to read the research on this extreme wear after an oil change if anyone has any links.
I didn't save a link, but the most authoritative source I've read indicated only that the rate of accumulation of wear metals in the oil was highest in the first thousand miles following an oil change. This could be explained by either: 1) actual higher wear rates with fresh oil, or 2) wear metals "plated out" on engine surfaces being more efficiently scavenged by the fresh detergent/dispersants in new oil.
 
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#64 ·
Just to add one thing to this thread.

I went to Amazon to purchase my F108S and I also wanted the option nipple. BUT....there is like $7.95 shipping on these two items, they are not prime. The nipple is $1. So, me being a cheap skate, I went to the actual Fumoto site and purchased both items for the same cost as Amazon and they'll ship them free via 1st class mail, can take 7 - 9 days but i'm in NO hurry, they wanted $7.95 Pri mail shipping. Also, no sales tax.

Just sayin

Gene
 
#65 · (Edited)
The "S" comes with the short nipple. If you mean the plastic hose adapter, I understand from other buyers that it's included on Amazon purchases. Still, if Fumoto's site is cheaper overall, bravo!, and thanks for the tip!

Update: I went to their site. Free shipping for $50 or more, unless I'm missing something.
 
#71 ·
The one in my picture is a F-105N which is for my 3.6 OB.

The F-108N(nipple) is for the 2.5 engine.

I use the Fumoto's on all three (3) of my Subarus.

Purchase the little rubber caps that fit over the nipples, keeps crud out, you'll be glad you did. :wink2:
 
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#72 ·
Basin Wrench for Fumoto install?

Has anyone tried using a basin wrench for the last 1/8" turn of the Fumoto valve when installing it? If it works, it would save me a trip to Harbor Freight to buy a Crow Foot Wrench set, + a few others things I would see there that I really "need" to buy.
 
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