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Best hitch (IMHO) for 2015- OB

15K views 41 replies 22 participants last post by  alexei52 
#1 ·
Hello all!

I just joined this forum, but made a lot of research here and would like to give back to the community.

The options I had were the following:

1. OE. Notes:
1.1 Installs instead of the bumper beam.
1.2 Requieres modification of the fascia.
1.3 Attaches to the rearmost part of the frame (further away from the axle). This is why the tongue weight rating is so low (200lbs). Although on Subaru Australia, the Outback is rated at 150kg (330lb) on the 2.5l and 180kg (396lb) on the 3.6l. I think the cars are exactly the same. I am not suggesting to go against the manual, but just to know.
1.4. 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 hitch. Won't work with many accessories.
1.5 No drilling.

2. Eco Hitch. Notes:
2.1 Attaches to the rearmost part of the frame (further away from the axle), but keeps the bumper beam.
2.2 A 2 x 2 option is available.
2.3 No drilling.

3. Curt. Notes:
3.1 Attaches to the frame, closer to the axle.
3.2 Requieres drilling.
3.3 A 2 x 2 option is available.
3.4 You lose one mount hole on the heatshield.

4. Resse/Hidden Hitch/Draw Tite et al
4.1 Attaches to the frame using the holes that are already there.
4.2 It is the hitch that mounts closest to the axle. Tongue weight transfers closer to the axle. Less lever. This means - less stress on the frame and less rear suspension travel. Try loading 200lbs of whatever on the bumper, and then do the same over the rear axle. The difference is huge!
4.3 You are supposed to drill an access hole for the washers and mounting bolts, but you can avoid that by removing the bumper beam and accessing through the end of the frame.

Based on that, the decision was easy. I went with Hidden Hitch. It is the best of both worlds: you keep the bumper beam, you don't drill, you have a 2 x 2 receiver, you don't have to cut the fascia, and although you need to trim the heatshield, you don't lose the mounting point. It mounts closer to the axle that all other options.

The downside? It takes a little longer to mount, since you perform the steps as if installing 2 different hitches. We did it with my wife without lifting the car in about 3 hours (with a lunch break).

I hope this summary helps other people looking for the best hitch option to make a decision. I do not represent any hitch company and couln't care less what brand to go with. It is only based on what suited me more. I felt more confortable in having to remove the fascia than drilling into the frame :grin2:
 
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#3 ·
I think you are mistaken to make generalizations about tongue capacity the way you have. The receivers are all in essentially the same place. EcoHitch is a bit higher (hence requires a notch to be cut out of the bumper cover) but all the leverages are essentially the same. The difference is EcoHitch and OE (it is not OEM, Original Equipment Manufacturer, for all we know Reese makes the OE which would make Reese OEM no matter the Reese aftermarket is not OE) attach to points on the frame designed to carry loads such as a rear collision. Others hang off the rectangular tube which the EcoHitch and OE attach at the end of. EcoHitch and OE are much shorter assemblies than the underbody hangers.

200 pound tongue limit is based more on how much the suspension will be upset. With all receivers in essentially the same place the suspension will be loaded the same no matter what model you install.
 
#6 ·
Well, there is certainly a nice price advantage with the Reese, etc. if you don't mind seeing the hitch below.
 
#9 ·
X2! Looks way nicer since you don't even really notice it. I hate the look of those that leave 3' of beam showing. Plus the brackets on those span (cross) the the crumple zones. It doesn't seem like a good idea to add stiffness to the crumple zone by bolting on brackets that cover them. Kind of defeats the purpose IMO.
 
#10 ·
Hi!

N4HHE,

I don't think the leverages are the same. We could even do the math. The bigger the distance between the axle and the point of application of the force, the more the rear suspension will lower under the same load.

That being said, a totally different point is the rated tongue capacity in the North American market, and the same car rated to almost double in other countries. I guess that has to do with the maximum speeds allowed while towing a trailer.

Your point about OEM / OE is taken. Thanks for the correction.

On the other side, GrimJeeper91 might be right in the fact that by this installation (or Curt, for that matter) I'm stiffing the rear crumple zone. To see how that really affects, we'd need to do a side by side controlled crash test comparison :)
 
#12 · (Edited)
Why to Avoid the Factory Hitch



N4HHE has it right...As long as the load (at the ball) is essentially at the same point, the load rating would be the same. The lever is the distance from the ball to the rear suspension. This doesn't change wherever the hitch is mounted to a rigid frame.

Also, see my post regarding the crush/crumple zone and SuperBumper. The factory hitch eliminates one of the key components (bumper beam) that absorbs and spreads impact force to the rear crumple zones. In effect you have a thin plastic fascia with nothing behind it!!! So any rear impact to the hitch is directly transmited to the frame (passengers) and you can assume that the damage to the car will be greater if the impact overrides the hitch.

So it's good that your installation retains the bumper beam. It could also be a good thing if the Curt applies force to the crumple zones rather than the main frame.

EDIT: The OE install re-installs the original bumper beam but discards the foam pad. So you get a beam for the hitch and a beam for the bumper but no foam to minimize low speed impact to the fascia.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Trailer Hitch Hazard

Thanks to the OP for the great comparison. I wish I'd had that before ordering the factory installed hitch.

A couple of problems with the factory installed hitch vs. adding the OE later. The installation is a real hassle; many hours of torment. Removing the fascia, eliminating the bumper crash beam, removing interior panels for wiring, etc. I checked it out before ordering from the factory. The only positive of a DIY install is that you can eBay the bumper beam.

Other issues are the small size of the receiver (1 1/4") and the elimination of the bumper crash beam. The OP mentioned the lack of accessories, most of which are made for 2" receivers. I wanted to get a step plate so I could reach the roof rack and found few choices for the smaller receiver. Also, removing the bumper beam compromises the car's ability to withstand a rear impact...not a good thing. And installation of a hitch means that a rear impact goes directly to the frame and none of the carefully engineered crash/crush zones. So potentially more damage and possibly whiplash injuries (see link below). :frown2:

I did find one accessory that anyone with a bumper hitch should know about...SuperBumper...STOP Rear end Collision Damage & Reduce Whiplash Injury! SUPERBUMPER This is a shock absorbing hitch or step plate that minimizes damage and whiplash. Unfortunately they only make a bumper style (no hitch or step plate) for a 1 1/4" receiver.

Hope this is helpful to those trying to decide on a hitch...:smile2:

EDIT: My dealer got it wrong. The bumper beam is re-installed over the hitch beam and both are attached to the same mounting point as the original. So this and any aftermarket that attaches to the beam mounting points will retain the crumple zones. The foam is removed from the OE install so low speed impact to the fascia will probably cause damage. That's where a SuperBumper would help.
 
#16 ·
Hi: New to Subaru and this forum.

Just got a new 3.6 and had the OEM hitch installed by dealer.

Some things mentioned didn't seem right (the install seems very similar to the procedure for my 2004 Audi allroad that the Outback is replacing).

I found the Subaru install for the OEM hitch and the BUMPER BEAM is REINSTALLED over the hitch.

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/59718/pdf/059718-L101SAJ000302389.pdf

The only change I see is that a foam piece is discarded. I think that because the hitch is bolted under the bumper beam using the same studs- the bumper beam protrudes out slightly further than before not leaving room for the foam.

So the bumper beam is still there. No offense intended, but I always chuckle when I see a "hidden hitch" with the entire back of the hitch exposed below the fascia. Seems it should be called "unhidden hitch". I just wish the OEM had a 2" receiver.

Bob
Ellicott City, MD
 
#17 ·
Hitch load ratings have little to do with physics and much to do with lawyers' ability to invent liability.

As for the (its not OEM) OE hitch deleting the bumper beam, it has its own bumper beam built-in. EcoHitch does not delete the bumper beam but makes the fit a bit tight having added 3/16" plate on the mounting studs. Hence they recommend deleting the foam pad which myself and others managed to make fit anyway.
 
#19 ·
Mowog, thanks for the link to the OE(M) installation. I was misinformed by my dealer. When they gave me the labor hours I was in shock so I asked what the install entailed. Even buying a discounted kit online, with the labor hours it was cheaper to have it installed at the factory.

N4HHE is correct that the OE hitch has a beam that mounts to the same points as the bumper beam. But the install also has the original bumper beam reinstalled. Just the foam pad is discarded. So it looks like you get two beams with the original taking the impact if a rear hit over-rides the hitch.

I stand corrected about the bumper beam...Thanks guys...I feel better now.:smile2:
But I still wish I could buy a SuperBumper for the 1 1/4" receiver.
 
#20 ·
N4HHE is correct that the OE hitch has a beam that mounts to the same points as the bumper beam. But the install also has the original bumper beam reinstalled. Just the foam pad is discarded. So it looks like you get two beams with the original taking the impact if a rear hit over-rides the hitch.
The instructions say to discard the foam but myself and others find we can assemble the bumper cover with the original foam.
 
#22 ·
The Eco-hitch says to discard it - but I asked them and they said it can go either way - it's just a touch easier to get the fascia back on if it's discarded. (the hitch makes the bumper bar prodrude about 3/16" further than it was without the hitch plate beneath the bumper mount). I didn't want any play in the bumper cover (what with kneeling or standing on the bumper could sometimes happen) so I reinstalled the foam and had little difficulty getting the car back together. I love the Eco hitch, it was cheap, and I did it in a couple of hours - 2" bike rack rock solid on my OB. Could not be happier with it. See the eco hitch threads for details - and one enterprising user who had a shop that could slice 1/8'thickness off the foam - probably the most ideal install possible.
 
#24 ·
I would probably report it to EcoHitch. Is that supposed to be powder coat?
 
#27 ·
Snapped a quick picture in the parking lot to let you guys know the type of rust I'm talking about:



I do live in the rust belt, but the car has gotten sprayed off every time it's above freezing. Detailed 3 times a year. Only Been through 2 winters with this hitch.
 

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#38 ·
Higher hitch rating does not increase car rating.

Eco Hitch 2" is rated for 350 tongue, 3500 trailer. The location where the EH bolts in look similar to the frame rails on a body on frame. Not personally looking to test the limits but this is a picture of the actual sticker on the unit.
Regardless of the Ecohitch rating, the car is only rated for 200# tongue weight. The lowest rating of any assembly always applies, not the highest. You can't mount an elephant on a wall designed to hold only a picture frame, even if you use an elephant-sized mounting hook!:surprise:

The 200# tongue weight rating is the limiting factor for trailer gross weight as well. One needs at LEAST 10% of the gross trailer weight on the tongue, so the practical limit of trailer towing is only 2000# for my 2.5i.
 
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#30 ·
Leaning toward the CURT Class 3 Trailer Hitch #13206 for myself now. Supposed to be powder coated, and installation appears to be uncomplicated.
 
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#34 ·
I would clean it and apply a coat of "por15" ...
POR-15, which is a modified urethane, is good stuff ... but you have to be careful. The part being coated has to be cleaned of loose rust, and it needs a protective top coat applied if the part will be exposed to sunlight. Bare cured POR-15 deteriorates when exposed to ultraviolet light.
 
#36 ·
Wanted to bump this up since I finally got around to installing the Curt hitch last night. Just one thing I wanted to note is their diagram for trimming the front-most holes to feed the carrier bolt and spacer through did not work for me as shown on the instructions. It states that you can just trim the hole length wise to 1.25", however I had to trim a larger, wider section about 1" x 1.25" so the bolt head could fit through (it seems like their drawing on the instructions is different or copied from another model, the original hole does not replicate what is shown). That was by far the toughest part since the metal is so thick and really takes some time and elbow grease with a rotary file; drilling the other two mounting holes wasn't bad. Oh, and the diagram for cutting the heat shield was over-exaggerated, it specified I needed to cut out about 3 inches more than was necessary.

After that everything was pretty easy, didn't even have to lift the car up, and the exhaust hangers came off very easily and installed without a hiccup. I also had some Bondo rubberized undercoating spray paint that I masked over the holes I trimmed out. Overall, I do wish it was more hidden, but for the price I got mine for as an open-box new item, I'm not complaining at all. I'll try to get some pictures later and will be using it next week to tow my motorcycle and lots of gear.
 
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