Quote:
Originally Posted by shera1231
Is this a good price?
Is 145k too many miles?
Is 6cyl engine better than 4?
Is it expensive to repair?
Any major issues with engine / exhaust for this model?
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Price -- Totally depends on this specific car. Like Dave said, you can check kbb.com for the "typical" price in your zip code. If they ask much less than the bluebook price, you have to wonder why.
Miles -- The odometer tells you very little about the condition of a vehicle. More important is how & where the car was driven & parked. 150K of city miles cause more wear & tear than 300K highway miles; carrying heavy loads or towing wear the engine & trans faster; etc.
H6 engine --
Much more power & torque than the H4 (which imho is underpowered for hills, or carrying a load, or playful driving). Very smooth. Very reliable so far...keeping in mind that 2001 was the first year with this engine...so relatively few H6's have hit 150K miles. No major timing belt job (like all H4s) or head gasket replacement (like many H4s from this era). The H6 models usually come with more trimmings...heated everything, leather seats, good stereo, etc. Biggest downsides: lower mpg, high octane gas recommended, and more expensive general maintenance.
Repairs -- If the engine needs a major repair in the future, yes, it will be expensive. Even replacing the spark plugs on this engine is a minor mechanical challenge. The
hope is that it was maintained properly for the last 145K and will not require any major repairs for another 50-100K, at which point you will have gotten plenty of car for your money.
Afaik these engines do not have any major issues so far.
Suggestions:
1) Ask for all maintenance history/records. You want to see regular oil & filter changes; at least 2 coolant changes; at least 1, ideally 2 spark plug changes; 1 or 2 fuel filter changes.
2) Take it for a long test drive, including high speed, steep hill, curves, bumps, and tight circles in a parking lot. Turn off the radio and open the window. Pay attention to the sound & feel of the engine, transmission, suspension, and brakes.
3) Check underneath for rust, especially from the rear. This year had a recall to rustproof the rear subframe of the car. If the original owner did not respond to the recall, that frame could be rusting out. Replacing it would be expensive.
4) Take it to an independent mechanic for a pre-sale inspection at your expense. Ask them what besides the tires needs replacing...brakes? cv boots? struts? battery? Also ask them to inspect the fluids. If you're lucky, the dealer did not replace the oil & atf, and your mechanic can drain and inspect these fluids to get a better sense of engine & transmission health.
That's all I can think of right now.
-Jeff