Rust Proofing

[jzy]

Hi there, I am new here and I have a question about rust proofing. I imported my 08 Outback from US last year. As I understand, Subaru's Factory Warranty includes 5 years of Rust Perforation Limited warranty - Unlimited miles. Being in Ottawa, we see a lot of salt on the road during winter, so I am thinking about rust proofing my Outback with a shop like Krown. Could someone here share their experience with me on aftermarket rust proofing and if there is any added value to doing so? Or is the factory warranty enough? Thanks a lot! Much appreciated!

[Aussie Outback]

A little off the subject but here it is anyway.

I had freinds who lived by the sea in a very salt prone area. The local dealer would away strip out the new cars and spray then with a light coat of Techtol which was basiclly bee's wax and fishoil thined out with a bit of solvent to spray it on. Cars lived out their days in better conditions than with out this prayed on them.

The inital smell can be a little rough but its old for a few days.

[rcy]

If you're keeping the car, use Krown. If you're planning on trading it in after a few years etc., then save your money. Have used Krown with excellent results.

[ported]

I live on the northwest coast (BC) and had a Diamond Kote rust-proofing module installed on our 08 Outback.
This technology is used on pipelines and heavy equipment to stop rust or at least slow it down. It uses sacrificial anodes, like zincs on ocean boats. The anode gets eaten away instead of the vehicle. Seems okay so far, not noticing the usual rust on cast parts.
There's pics in My Gallery of it on the drivers side inner fender. It's part of the rust proofing package offered at Subaru Ca.

[rsrocket1]

Originally posted by ported
I live on the northwest coast (BC) and had a Diamond Kote rust-proofing module installed on our 08 Outback.
This technology is used on pipelines and heavy equipment to stop rust or at least slow it down. It uses sacrificial anodes, like zincs on ocean boats. The anode gets eaten away instead of the vehicle. Seems okay so far, not noticing the usual rust on cast parts.

Interesting,
Aren't sacrificial anodes used for electrolysis? Electrolysis is where dissimilar metals create a voltage and get eaten away as they combine. This has to happen in the presence of water. Water heaters are notorious for this.

Rust is simple oxidation even in the absence of another metal. I think the only prevention for this is rinsing the metal off with water and drying it off immediately or coating it to prevent moisture from getting to the metal.

We are mostly deprived of rust out here in California. Cars usually don't rust out, they just burn up in brush fires or get totalled by uninsured motorists.

[ported]

You are probably right. i only researched where and how this particular technology was being used. With the sacrificial anodes boats,machinery etc. the anode goes first before any other metal.

[Gman_bosco]

If you're keeping the vehicle for a long time, DEFINITELY get it rust proofed. I've used Krown with excellent results, on several vehicles I've had.

They say it's needed every year, which I've done underneath & engine compartment, but in the body panels I've done that every other year, and it's been fine since it lasts longer there compared to exposed areas.
It is a bit messy for a couple days but worth it. Also some smell but no big deal. Krown has an excellent product. Go for it!
(Be sure to use an outlet that does this exclusively as they'll do a better job than one that just does it "on the side.")

[notwen]

Just my 2cents worth; as has been stated rust is slow oxidation of the metal. Various methods counteract this action; sacrificial anodes( a piece of zinc), waxy coatings (Ziebart(US)), and other 'oily' coatings. A combination of anode and coating is maybe best. The crease between door skin and door frame is the prime area rust begins because the air molecule can't circulate and dry the area out(it's true, think rusted threads). So a sealant of a non-brittle coating encapsulates the crease so rust can't form(don't block drain holes). The anode protects but will need to be changed over time (so it must be accessible) The Techtol mentioned by Aussie Outback is new to me but on the Forester forum I found reference to Fluid Film a lanolin based product. Think wool, anyway in the states John Deere shops handle it, it is nearly as all-purpose as WD40. Either one should work.
As also stated it will depend on how long you plan to keep the car. Also it should be noted that chemical reactions accelerate with heat(rust is a reaction) so a heated garage with a car loaded with salt residue will begin to corrode faster.
The zinc can be zinc plumbers strap.

[subiesailor]

It cracks me up that the rust topic never seems to go away. Yet auto makers are using high grade steel and treating their car frames and bodies with a full soak tank during build process that makes rust for new cars these days the least of your worries.

#1 how long do you plan on owning your car? 15-18-20yrs?

#2 Does it make sense to spray stuff over the factory sealant after a vehicle has been on the road and no doubt coated all its bits with dirt and grime etc?

Even my 2001 legacy with a crease in the door for 10yrs parked in San Francisco just a few blocks in from the Pacific ocean where you get salt crust on you windows and the tools in your garage rust faster than you can keep em clean -the legacy hardly had any rust damaged at all - after a couple of years I didn't even worry about it anymore given even the exposed metal damage was showing so little signs of rust it would have taken 20yrs before it ever was an issue.

Shoot even my 1993 landcruiser which spent 4years living in that area has no rust.

[subiesailor]

Biggest thing you can do is rinse off your car any time its been exposed to road salt or in my case coated in ocean spray.