After 7 min of warming up I'm trying to drive but there's no way I can, the car is in the stage of a "hitting a wall" or "loss of power" and hesitating. And only happens under load, doesn't happen in neutral. I had to stop and put emergency lights on, because the car wasn't moving faster than 2 miles per hour and it doesn't matter how much you pushing on the pedal. However sometimes It's getting better(pushing on the pedal and sounds like the air stuck somewhere, with a sound of misfire-very rarely but it happens) Here's the tricky part, after 2500-3000 rpm it takes a second breath and drives like crazy, no issues, no hesitation, a lot of power, until it goes back to low rpm, and becoming badly again, sometimes even dying. On the parking works great, responds great. Tranny shifts good, around 2500-3000 rpm Also, when I pulled the MAP sensor it was all oily, and inside of manifold looks kinda oilish? Don't know if that's okay?
Next thing what we did, checked for the Fuel pressure, which was good, and cylinders pressure two of them were around 120 and two of them around 95-100, which I think is Okay.. Next thing, got the MAP sensor from ebay used one,installed and cleared the codes after, drove around didn't feel any difference, CEL is on again - MAP sensor. GOT new knock sensor with a TPS sensor, installed it today and cleared the codes, and no difference. Ordered the MAP sensor from ebay again, but they send the wrong one, doesn't fit on mine, it's more for 2004 legacy or others, so had to send it back. Mine part is Bosch 0261230013, and of course autozone or advancedAutoParts don't have it. Ebay has it but for Hyundai which is okay I think? So I'm planning to get that one.
Here's what the car is doing: start's up and RPM are going to 2500 right away, then slowly goes back to 900-1000 , and shakes; sometimes badly and sometimes not really noticeable.
I have read a lot of your threads and posts, looks like you know a lot about Subarus. I've got a problem that I'm trying to solve for the past month, and was hoping you can help me out in here.
Here's the problem,
I've got Subaru Legacy L 2001 Automatic, bought it three month ago, the car was having issues with a radiator cap, I replaced it and started to drive. In a couple days CEL popped out, misfire cyl 2, misfire cyl 4, some vacuum leak, and Map sensor. Here's what I did:
Put new NGK spark plugs with a proper GAP, new NGK wires, new coil pack. Changed the oil, and filter. After that we erased the codes, after 10 or so CEL code - misfire and MAP sensor.
The only thing you will need to add to the JDM EZ30D engine is a longer vacuum hose for the brake booster. The JDM cars have the vacuum port on the right side and a plug on the left. You will not be able to swap them. That thread sealer they use in production makes sure of that. You can add in a section of hose with a hose splice and it will be fine. Or, you could swap your intake over to the JDM engine. The harness is exactly the same.
I would suggest you put in a new set of plugs, reseal the valve covers and replace the thermostat before dropping it in.
You seem to know the most about this, was hoping you would be able to help me. I have a 2001 outback vdc and the H6 threw a rod and now I am looking at replacing the motor since Subaru wants $7500 for a new motor. I was wondering if a JDM ez30 not the ez30r would swap in without any major issues was planning on keeping my transmission since it works fine.
You don't want to go true duals if that is what you're thinking. The pipes need to come together to help the engine breath. If you do true duals, you'll need a H pipe joining the two sides.
Headers, and good ones. Tim at Raptor makes a set for the 3.0R in different varieties. Header pipes from the Gen 2 3.0 WILL NOT WORK. They have to be made specifically for the 3.0R heads. Porting is different. After the headers, get a tune. I'd recommend XTreme Racing Tuning, he's done a lot of R engines, both NA and boosted.
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