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Old 11-27-2012, 09:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
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My first car in high school was the family 1977 VW Van. I would be lucky to get port holes defrosted inside the front window. I kept a scrapper next to me to help clear the inside of the windshield and wore ski gloves to avoid frostbite. But that thing was great in the snow, good ground clearance with the weight of the engine over the rear wheels.
So glad to now have heated seats on top of a working heater. Good ground clearance and AWD.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:11 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Since my early 80's cars about 30 seconds no more than a minute. Just need about that much to get the fluids moving - after that a slow run down the street and head to work. 260,000 miles on my old 93 Ford when I sold it for $2800!!!!!!!! 180,000 miles on my last subaru $1200 not ideal but was ready to sell it. I do still miss it

Your iced up windows might require more time to clear than the engine and running gear need before your on the move. Running a car just to run it is just a waste of fuel. I just want to slap people upside the back of the head when they do that. Exception would be in Alaska where your car freezes solid if it gets shut down for more than a short time.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:10 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I have a 2013 CVT with 13K on it. For the first 1,000 I allowed it to warm up and slow down itself, took about 1-2 minutes. Now, just allow about 30 seconds and then drive off slowly until light goes off. As mentioned, temperature is critical for not only engine, but transmission.

Started my Suburban in February in Yellowstone National Park and even though I gave it over 10 minutes to warm up, auto transmission never recovered. I assume the CVT will also have to be taken into account in extremely cold weather and the car should be driven under a low load until the transmission is warmed up.
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