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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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AEM air filter

Anybody have any experience with AEM Dry Filters? Does anyone know if they flow better than K&M filters? I usually go right to K&N but if they flow well it would be good to do away with the oiling of the K&N.
Thanks.

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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 11:08 PM
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I've run AEM DryFlow filters in three vehicles, and compared them side by side with K&N.
To me there is no question. AEM is hands down better than K&N.

Besides the oiling you have to do on the K&N, the cotton element washes out and looses it's effectiveness exponentially more quickly than the polyester element the AEM uses.

There's no argument for the K&N as far as I can figure.
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. I'll order mine this week.

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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBetterMethod View Post
I've run AEM DryFlow filters in three vehicles, and compared them side by side with K&N.
To me there is no question. AEM is hands down better than K&N.

Besides the oiling you have to do on the K&N, the cotton element washes out and looses it's effectiveness exponentially more quickly than the polyester element the AEM uses.

There's no argument for the K&N as far as I can figure.
Is this your opinion or do you have a link/facts you can post to prove the loss of effectiveness of the K&N? I ask because the K&N is supposed to be used as a system with the oil, not just the cotton material since the oil is used to trap dirt too.

I'm not for one or the other, just would like to see data that backs up what you are saying.


Here is an interesting link comparing a few filters, check out the links towards the bottom after reading. The AEM is not included but there is a few kinds of filter media in the test.

Air Filtration Test
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWD Flyer View Post

Here is an interesting link comparing a few filters ...

Air Filtration Test
Here we go again with the testimonials, superstition, and witchcraft.

Bottom line: the difference in "airflow restriction" (i.e., filter delta-P)
between the "best" and "worst" contenders in the above shootout was
only 0.018 PSI. That's equivalent to the "supercharging effect" of an
ear-popping 40 foot drop in elevation.

...a fool and her money are soon courted,

Looby

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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Looby View Post
Here we go again with the testimonials, superstition, and witchcraft.
There's a large difference between lubricated and dry air filters. In the lowest restriction war, people forgot that air filters are actually supposed to catch particulate debris. Performance for a given task has to be balanced with cost and airflow restriction.

Lubricated filters like K&N catch and trap far more debris, and if they do suffer from material defect they have an outstanding warranty. I've had to use it a couple times on my SRT-4 for a non-critical mounting piece, and they had awesome service.

And also, for tuners looking to get every little bit of power, they know that every little bit helps from the intake through the exhaust. On an outback, if you want a high performance filter do yourself a favor and get one that actually does what it's supposed to. I've never seen an outback at the track and would laugh pointing my finger at the driver if I did.


Bottom line is that the specifics matter, as does build quality. K&Ns I've owned are outstanding, but I've owned others like monster flow on cars I cared less about making run for 100K plus miles with few problems.

Edit: If you're talking about a drop-in, you're splitting hairs. I buy K&N because they last a long time without maintenance and catch a lot. If you're talking about full cold air/short ram kits you need to look at comparisons on specific models. I installed a full cold air kit on my old SRT and it was amazing. I have a drop in K&N on my BMW and it does the job well and needs less cleaning. I was considering a kit on my Outback, but the sooner you go for a kit the better, since you can accrue gas savings over the life of the vehicle.

There won't be much difference in HP or fuel use with any drop in, just a difference in maintenace and replacement cost.

Last edited by DoomsdayJesus; 02-22-2012 at 03:30 PM. Reason: update
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 02:40 PM
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i will never buy an oiled filter again. re-oiling is so awful and the chance of some oil getting on your MAF make them not worth anything. i had an aem filter in my evo, loved it. looked around for one, afe makes the same thing. bought it, worth the $50. last post was correct, oiled filters offer the best performance and usually least filtration. either stick with stock and replace every 15k miles or whatever or you have a choice of buying one afe filter.

who cares about resale value? this is an outback, not getting something else til at least 200k miles!

i have a few parts that aren't supposed to be there...

tired of a sore elbow from the hard plastic armrest? get a cover here http://www.redlinegoods.com/cgi-bin/...r&id=1&aid=774
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomsdayJesus View Post
There's a large difference between lubricated and dry air filters.
No, the DATA show that the difference in "airflow restriction" between
a NAPA paper filter and K&N is a virtually unmeasurable 1.25 millibars!
The DATA also show that the difference in restriction between the OEM
Mazda filter and no filter at all was a similarly microscopic 3.5 millibars.
(That's equivalent to the delta-P for a 100 foot change in elevation.)

Forthermore, that's ONLY at wide-open-throttle. At any other operating
condition, the difference in filter pressure drops is even less _AND_ the
total atmosphere-to-cylinder flow restriction is TOTALLY INDEPENDENT
of the air filter design (including no air filter at all).

At other than wide-open-throttle conditions, any reduction in delta-P
across the air filter is exactly cancelled out by an equal-but-opposite
increase in delta-P across the (partially closed) throttlebody butterfly.
The pistons don't care what's limiting the airflow when the driver isn't
calling for balls-to-the-wall maximum power.

...happily, physics is immune to the placebo effect,

Looby

All-time favorite boxers (chronological order):
2013 Subaru Legacy ...... 2.5L H4
2011 Subaru Outback .... 2.5L H4
2003 Honda Goldwing ... 1.8L H6
1960 Porsche 356B S90 . 1.6L H4
1942 Muhammed Ali ...... 6'3" H2
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-13-2012, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looby View Post
No, the DATA show that the difference in "airflow restriction" between
a NAPA paper filter and K&N is a virtually unmeasurable 1.25 millibars!
The DATA also show that the difference in restriction between the OEM
Mazda filter and no filter at all was a similarly microscopic 3.5 millibars.
(That's equivalent to the delta-P for a 100 foot change in elevation.)

Forthermore, that's ONLY at wide-open-throttle. At any other operating
condition, the difference in filter pressure drops is even less _AND_ the
total atmosphere-to-cylinder flow restriction is TOTALLY INDEPENDENT
of the air filter design (including no air filter at all).

At other than wide-open-throttle conditions, any reduction in delta-P
across the air filter is exactly cancelled out by an equal-but-opposite
increase in delta-P across the (partially closed) throttlebody butterfly.
The pistons don't care what's limiting the airflow when the driver isn't
calling for balls-to-the-wall maximum power.

...happily, physics is immune to the placebo effect,

Looby

I didn't say anything about a difference in restriction, I said oiled filters trap and hold more particulate debris than dry filters do. Especially over time. You don't need a dissertation to understand that. I even said there's virtually no difference between drop-ins aside from a ROI with a reusable filter bought at a good price.

And there's a massive difference when you're using an entire cold air/low restriction intake on any engine with forced induction. The problem is people translating that to naturally aspirated 4 cylinder motors and thinking they'll get the same results.

Also, FWIW in regards to oil on your MAF causing problems, it sounds like a load of hot air: http://www.knfilters.com/maf/massair.htm
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-13-2012, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomsdayJesus View Post

I said oiled filters trap and hold more particulate debris than dry filters do.
Proof by strenuous assertion?


All-time favorite boxers (chronological order):
2013 Subaru Legacy ...... 2.5L H4
2011 Subaru Outback .... 2.5L H4
2003 Honda Goldwing ... 1.8L H6
1960 Porsche 356B S90 . 1.6L H4
1942 Muhammed Ali ...... 6'3" H2
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