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-   -   Replacing timing belt and can't get crank shaft pulley out (

Padawan 09-20-2008 11:28 AM

Replacing timing belt and can't get crank shaft pulley out
This is Alex, the girlfriend, writing as Christopher is trying trying trying to get the crank shaft pulley off. The DIY manual calls for a chain wrench to do this, but the biggest one we found wasn't big enough. The crank shaft pulley just rotates when we try to get it unbolted. We tried wrenches with the adjustable strap and they just get broken.

Any ideas? He's about the take the whole radiator out and try to get an impact gun in there to get the crank pulley unbolted. Again, the problem is not the bolt itself, but the fact that the crank shaft pulley is rotating while we try to get the bolt off.

Padawan 09-20-2008 12:25 PM

We got it! We had to use a little "trick" I found on a google search. Never underestimate the power of google.

We tried unbolting the crank by using the frame of the car as leverage and then turned the engine for just a second. We had to make sure the pulley went in the right direction first.

Two seconds later, crank shaft pulley came right off. After running from store to store, trying to find alternative means to making our own large wrench that would hold, etc. Two seconds using this trick and it was off.

Claymore 09-20-2008 12:27 PM

I assume this is an Automatic?
I had the same issue - easy fix - simply pull the rubber plug located at the top of the bell housing, near the back of the engine bay, on the passenger side. This will expose the torque converter. Rotate the crak and you will see holes in the torque converter that you can install a large screwdriver into and lock the crank while you take the crank pulley off.
BTW, I had to use a 4 foot snipe on my flex bar to get the pulley nut loose.

Hope this helps!

Claymore 09-20-2008 12:29 PM

Glad you got the pulley off!
Now you have to lock the crank to torque the pulley bolt to 130 ft lbs when you put it back together - obviously the starter trick will not work, so consider the method of locking the crank as per my previous post.

porcupine73 09-20-2008 12:41 PM

Hello. Yes the starter bump trick is pretty effective. I usually do the block the flywheel method mentioed above. Yes when the crank pulley bolt is put back in, it needs to be gutentite. Otherwise the bolt may loosen up over time and the results are not pretty.

If you don't already have it, there is a good article on about how to replace the timing belt. '97 Outback automatic would have the 2.5L dohc which can be a little tricky since intake and exhaust valves can collide and the valves can collide with the pistons. There have been some posts on here where it was timed wrong and then ended up with bent valves. Just saying this as a word of caution to make sure to know what timing marks to use etc to avoid problems. :)

Here is roughly where the plug is to block the flywheel (since you'll have to block the crank somehow in order to tighten the crank pulley bolt on reinstall)

Oh if you are looking for a chain wrench that will fit around the crank pulley, the $20 one at Harbor Freight will handle it. I tried that once and it worked ok but it's a little tricky getting the chain to stay where you want it, also used piece of old belt to protect pulley from damage (otherwise it will chew up your accessory belts if it has knicks on it).

there's a bunch of other stuff that is prudent to do when replacing the timing belt, such as water pump, the geared/toothed idler near the water pump and any other idlers that seem worn, and generally reseal oil pump and replace o-ring, cam seals if leaking, valve clearance check and adjustment. Water pump seems to last usually around 160k miles or so.

The_Lizard 09-20-2008 03:41 PM

I recently helped someone do this on a 2005 LGT - I told him about locking the flywheel through that little port at the top - but alas, his turbo intercooler was in the way.

BTW he was putting on a lightened pulley, it was about 1 pound vs. about 5 pounds for the stock one.

chestatee 06-20-2010 02:59 PM

I used an oil filter wrench that has a 3" metal band that you attach to a 1/2 inch rachet or breaker bar. The wrench is made for removing oil and fuel filters off large diesel truck engines and earth moving equipment. Works great! Can be bought at truck dealers, service shops, internet etc. Measure the pully so you get the right size.

twoblacklabs 06-21-2010 03:36 AM

FYI. The 20" chainwrench is on sale at HF for $4.99 20" CHAIN WRENCH

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