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Old 10-20-2008, 08:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Fuel line replacement

I just picked up a 1998 outback legacy, and with all of your help was able to get it running last week with a timing belt change, and new water pump.

The problem now is a fuel leak on top of the fuel tank. I believe I isolated it to the ganged up steel lines that run across the top of the tank. There are 4 lines, one that goes back to the evap tank, a supply line, a return line, and one that goes from
one side of the tank to the other. The evap line was really rusty, so knowing that its not under pressure, I carefully ran a length of rubber line over the tank and just plugged it in at either end. At this point I thought I had it solved, as I no longer had any leak.

I had resealed the plug hole on the driver side rear floor pan (gas had eaten the plug), so I didn't smell anything in the car, but once I got back home I had more drip, drip, drip, coming off the edge of the tank.

I would like to replace this whole group of hard lines without dropping the diff.
My question is, can I get access to the top of the tank by just lowering the tank to
the diff? It seems I only need about 3-4 inches of drop to place the new lines.

One more question....could I just bypass the steel lines across the top with high pressure rubber hose? I guess I would worry about chafing between the floor pan and tank, after all my kids are sitting directly above this!!


Thoughts??
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hm...not sure really. You must live in or gotten the car from the salt belt lol, make sure you check your brake lines in the rear too those things can get eaten apart too.

For any fuel application I'd be using specifically fuel hose not just any 'high pressure hose'. If it is under the pressure of the fuel injection then it must be fuel injection hose. Otherwise I think regular fuel hose for any evap components etc would be fine as for carb applications that'd be good for at least around 7psig which is far more than the fuel tank itself would be under. But for fuel injection of course that could be 45psig on soobs or so.
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh Yes...just down the thruway from you in Rochester.
Thanks for the help last week!


The design of these lines is strange. They come through the firewall, down along the rocker panel...inside the car, and then pop through the rear floor just in front of the tank. They have about 8-9 inches of rubber hose on them at this point (one is fuel injection hose with the special fuel injection clamps...this is the supply) They then plug into the steel lines that basically run up and over the to the top passenger side of the tank to the fuel pump access plate. 3-4 inches of rubber hose on this end to connect to the tank itself. (once again fuel injection hose/clamps on the supply).

Like I said the evap line is already bypassed ( i ran it up and over the tank, and down the crossmember back to the evap box. Seems like a pretty safe way to go, as it gets the line WAY up and over the exhaust.

The tank to tank line would just stay up on top of the tank, as it is 1/4 inch, and would have plenty of clearance.

Brake lines looking good

Anyone drop the tank without dropping the diff?
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, its been some time since I posted on this.
I had to let some penetrating oil soak in for about a week, but I managed to remove the entire rear suspension, including the crossmember without the use of a torch. I have about 4 bolts that are going to need to be drilled out and tapped.
10 years of salt just locks um together.
This allowed me to pull the tank for inspection.
I have multiple problems, and find this odd. as the rest of the vehicle is really not rusty at all. I you ask me it was poor rust treatment by Subaru on the fuel components.
So I have to replace all 7 hard lines flowing around the tank....not bad $135 through the dealer. All of the rubber hose and clamps will be replaced as well.
The tank itself is shot....the vent tube broke off during the removal, and the seam is starting to swell up in layers.
I am in a search for a used tank from the south. If anyone knows of a good source?
A new one from the dealer isn't too bad at $360, but a used one sure would help.

I can't even imagine what this would have cost me at a shop.......pure labor! about 15 hours my time.

Oh, this is nice...I broke the rollover valve removing a hose ($154 dealer!!) ouch.
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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tank pic 1
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Fuel line replacement-tank-001.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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tank pic 2
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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tank pic 3
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Because I hate unresolved posts, I will attach some finished photos, and notes.

I have installed a new (used tank) I had a used tank dealer in Buffalo find me a nice southern tank, and ship it right to my house. $205.
All new hard lines were purchased from the dealer. $79
For anyone tackling this job on an older rust belt Subie, I would recommend soaking all of the bolts with good penetrating oil for several days.
I ended up breaking off 5 bolts in the frame! I spent several hours drilling and tapping all of these out, and really had to get them all perfect due to the fact that they hold the rear suspension on the car.
My haynes manual recommended removing the control arms, and rear axles to drop the diff, but I found that I could just disconnect the whole rear crossmember and drop it. I had to only disconnect the struts to let it drop.
I got luck with my rollover valve, as the new tank still had a good one bolted to it that I was able to use.
Removing the exhaust, and rear driveshaft wasn't all that bad, at least I had no broken bolts! I was able to fix up a rattling heat shield.
I did save myself a ton of labor charges, and the car is up and running, but I don't think I would tackle this job again.
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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new tank
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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tank2
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