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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I'm replacing my clutch and i'm all the way to the point where i need to separate the transmission from the engine and it won't come apart!!!
I've taken out the four bolts AND removed the four nuts from the studs holding the engine to the transmission. I've also followed the Haynes manual to the letter and at this point it says...remove the transmission to engine mounting bolts and then move the transmission backwards and then down to remove it. haha, yeah right. I've disconnected everything and as far as i can tell there is nothing holding the two together. Any advice?! I've been pulling as hard as i can backward and also attempted to pound on the transmission (all be it gently in fear of cracking it). I"m at a stopping point until i can get these two separated. Please help! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Elk River, MN
Car: 1998 Legacy Outback, 2.5, auto, Green
Posts: 134
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Yes that is the separation point. On the drivers side there will be a little tab sticking up on the bell housing. Use a pry bar or large screw driver and pry on the tab and the engine block. The alignment pins on the trans and block are a tight fit and will need some persuasion. I just went through all of this myself pulling the engine for a head gasket replacement.
__________________
2007 Legacy 2.5i 2005 Legacy GT 328 AWHP at 19 PSI 1997 Harley Custom Electra Glide 1998 Outback |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Scooby Noob
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
Car: 1997 OBS EJ22
Posts: 19
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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When I was swapping my 2.2 AT motor, I had a hard time separating the bellhousing off the motor, took a lot of brute shaking of the cherry picker with the motor hung on it before the tranny broke loose.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis, TN
Car: 1999 Legacy Outback
Posts: 329
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Yes, listen to nipper (I did...). make sure you unbolt the dogbone, then like others have posted it takes a bit of crowbar/screwdriver work to get them separated. I think it took me 30-45 minutes to get them apart when I did it.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Thanks guys! Wurkenman's tip was just what i needed. Wow, are those studs long and you really have to pry on the transmission to get it loose and all the way off those studs.
Transmission is out and i'm just waiting on the new clips for the throw bearing that should be here tomorrow. I also want to get some brake cleaner to make sure the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate are perfectly clean. Hopefully i'll get it back together on tuesday night or wednesday. Thanks again. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Flying Cavalry
![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: RI
Car: 1997 OBW 2.2L 5spd
Posts: 185
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Here's a tip. Use anti-sieze on all the contacts surfaces bell housing and such when you put it together. If you ever have to take it apart again you won't have this problem. I use anti-sieze on everything that doesn't require something eles.
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