97 OB I have oil dripping off the rack and pinion and onto the y pipe and it stinks, so Id like to figure out whats leaking. I am not loosing engine oil or power steering fluid, and the trans fluid is at the right level. Any idea where its coming from? Just had the head gaskets done so I doubt that is my source.
I also have one other issue that I find annoying, When you take off on a slippery road the front tires will start spinning and then the rear seams to kick in and it almost feels like you've been rear ended????????? Don't notice it at parking lot speeds but definitely at speeds over 30.
There is a "oil separator plate" in the back of the 90's engines that almost always leak. It could be something else, of course like the valve cover gaskets but most likely it's the separator plate. But you can't change the plate, which only cost $30 or so, without pulling the engine.
On one car I owned, I bolted in an aluminum sheet to deflect the oil off the exhaust and that worked pretty well.
The "transfer plate" is actually called the "oil separator plate". The factory original one is made of a plastic type material and can warp and leak after being overheated ... such as when the HGs blow. It is a common leak point on the 2.5 DOHC engine.
On my 97, it leaked only about a 1/4 quart of oil a month, barely enough to show on the dipstick but was enough to make a mess and stink up the place until I got it replaced.
The replacement plate is now made of metal and should last "forever" if sealed correctly.
Besides removing the engine to get to it, it is possible to remove the transmission instead, though most DIYers go the engine removal route.
It can be difficult to precisely locate leaks on these engines because no matter where the leak is, the oil always seems to end up on the Y-pipe.
Other common leak points:
-cam seals
-front main/oil pump seal
-valve cover gaskets
Both the transmission and the front differential have vent hoses on the top of the case. In the event either are overfilled, oil will be pushed out the vent and drip down on (where else?) the Y-pipe.
Regarding your drivability issues with all wheel drive, I have experienced the same. it takes a split second for the rear wheels to kick in once the fronts slip and the subsequent "hit" results. Happens to me every time I decide to drive more aggressively in winter conditions. Once slip is detected the clutch packs seem to hold the rear wheels engaged and I don't get that unnerving hit from the back wheels engaging. I wonder if it is the same with manual Outbacks and other Subarus. Plus, the stupid understeer built into our cars, takes all the fun of having an all wheel drive fun fest in slippery, wintery conditions (empty parking lots and the like :wink2
Yep. Look up posts from member ntippet and you'll see more about the Arduino controller he built to regulate front vs. rear torque output. You'll probably learn all you need to rig a simple override.